jdmcertified909

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RMQLy...feature=fvwrel

This is a 97 Accord EX. It has the F22b1 motor, with about 158,000 miles on it. It runs great and gets decent mileage, except for one thing. It always takes 3 tries to start it. **SOMETIMES** it will fire right up on the first try, but what you see in this vid is what usually happens. NOBODY seems to know what is causing this. I've had numerous mechanics look at it, and they are all stumped. Here is a short list of parts I've replaced:

1. Spark plugs (NGK's)
2. Spark plug wires (NGK's)
3. Distributor cap
4. Distributor rotor
5. Ignition coil
6. Ignition control module
7. Ignition switch
8. Fuel filter
9. Air filter
10. Oxygen sensor
11. Main EFI Relay

And even (to those who know what this is) a BG Induction Service, and a coolant flush and replacement. I regularly change the oil, and keep up with the preventative maintenance on this car. What the hell could this be? I'm running out of parts to replace chasing this elusive problem!

PS: Check engine light was on for 2 things. Random/multiple cylinder misfire and rear oxygen sensor heater circuit malfunction

Clif

I wish you luck! In fact, my 96 Accord does the EXACT same thing! I rebuilt the engine completely, and after I got it running, it takes 3 tries to get it to run. Mine is an F22B1, EX model. So, hopefully, someone else will chime in on the reason, and help us both.

holmesnmanny

Usually hard starts are caused by the ECT sensor. This is usually like 25 bucks at auto parts stores.

You can test it first.

Clif

My ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) switch was defective. It was sending a negative 143 degrees to the computer, which made it dump too much fuel to allow it to start. After I replaced it last week, it now still needs 3-5 tries before it will start. if the engine is hot, it took about 8 tries this evening. Still something else, I think.

holmesnmanny

How long since cap, rotor, plugs were replaced ?

Clif

My rotor, cap, plugs, and wires are new. Installed when I installed the engine 200 miles ago.

aicrag6901

I had a similar problem. and it turned out to be my ignition switch. not where you put your key. it's the wire harness and switch that attaches to it. since you changed that. I am assuming your car never cuts out while driving.then its possible your gas is not getting to the cylinders before the third try.

holmesnmanny

I seem to have missed the check engine light that you already stated. What are the exact codes and why don't you suspect that they are the cause ? A misfire can easily cause your car to have problems starting.

btw you could have got the main relay for 40 bucks or less at rockauto with a coupon code

holmesnmanny

You can also have a leaking injector. The next time you have a hard time starting it, pull the plugs and smell them. I would check their resistance.

rival12

Ignition Switch, when you turn the key to crank, don't let it turn back on it's on hold it half turned, if it stays running, Ignition Switch is the culprit.



You've replaced this?

Lost Again

X2, need to know what the codes are.

If you turn the key to on, don't try to start, does the fuel pump prime? I know you replaced the main relay but if the "inputs" to it are not there......

Clif

I have a new distributor on the way (due to two other issues). I will let yall know if this helps with the starting.

justinsbg

What are the current codes stored in the PCM? By the video you uploaded it seems just like ignition switch symptoms, but if you have a new Honda part installed I wouldn't think that's the problem. Heres something to try: before you start the car try "priming" the system. Turn the key to the on position until the main relay clicks off, then cut the switch back off and immediately crank the car. If it starts without any issues you'll need to look into the fuel system. All you're doing is pressurizing the fuel rail in case there are injectors leaking down. Try that and Let me know what you find.

Clif

OK, I finally got my problem fixed today. My Accord was throwing a P1381, Cylinder Position Sensor Intermittent Interruption. This was driving me crazy. All Data points you to the distributor. That is where the sensor is. I replaced my distributor, and it still had the code. So, I bought a rebuilt distributor, and it still had the code. So, today, out of desperation, I went to a local junk yard, and bought a replacement computer. After I swapped that out, the car started ont he first try, and has done so ever since.