jjitty1

Hey my friend I just posed the question because I've heard that this concept exists I was wondering what other model would work.

Steve LeB

How do you push the driveshaft protector back so you can squeeze in your wrench to remove the four back bolts bolts

CDelgado220

Nice DIY...

Unfortunately Honda made 5th gens rotor change hard as hell. But the 4th and 6th gens have ROH which is 20 times easier.

Here is the ROH conversion DIY for reference and would probably cost almost the same or less if you went to the shop to get this done for both sides.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/diy-rotor-over-hub-conversion-2027047/

nus_dogg

Actually, 4th Gen has the same setup as well. If you were looking to buy rotors, I believe they will list 90-97 Accords. But yes, I don't know what the hell Honda was thinking at the time.

MAD_MIKE

One advantage of the HOR design is like single piece hub/rotor they are not susceptible to distortion from over torquing the lug nuts. With a ROH divorced hub rotor design, if an overzealous monkey over torques the wheel studs one could induce a bending load on the rotor. Rather than laying flat or square to the hub the rotor can actually begin to take on a conical shape. Induce some heat and it exacerbates the problem. Now if the pressure was equal one might not notice anything outside of unusual pad/rotor wear. But being there are only 4-5 points the rotor will distort unequally leading to pulsing of the pedal under braking.

I've actually only experienced this with underbraked vehicles. '93 Taurus with the 10" rotors(rectified in '94-up models) and the porker '95-'98 Mopar Minivans.

HonBeer

I use my Snap-on offset box wrench.

Bently_Coop

Just used this DIY. Great info thanks for the information.

glimrmn

Awesome writeup with very descriptive instructions. I'm gonna give this a shot in the next few weeks. Thanks!

JuniorFeth

The post was old but super, extremely valuable, especially the tip on buying that 12mm offset wrench - without it, the job is impossible without removing the steering knuckle. I bought the Sears Craftsman 12mm/14mm combo - now, the most expensive boxend wrench I own! I am not sure it worked but I used the PB Blaster from NAPA along with an Engineer's hammer (no joke - courtesy of Home Depot and Stanley Tools) on the 12mm wrench but had to switch to a piece of 1-inch steel pipe as a cheater to break loose two of the bolts. I know - you always need the right tool for the job - but it worked and allowed me to install the TASauto "hub over rotor" kit. I see that some folks cringe at the thought of the "hub over rotor" but it was easy to install along with the cross-drilled rotors. Great price - less than $600 including shipping to Honolulu! So, Aloha and Mahalo to the kid and his dad who wrote that tutorial. It was worth its weight in gold. And, thanks to honda-tech.com for posting that tutorial.....YES!

furious94ls

Very nice write up, still a bitch to do though. I have no idea why Honda did this to certain cars. Crazy.

MAD_MIKE

With the HOR system, if a tire monkey were to use an impact gun set on 11 to torque your lug nuts, although the torque value would be incorrect, this would not affect the rotor.

With a ROH system it is possible to deform the rotor while it is sandwiched between the hub and wheel. Overtorquing will distort the rotor and cause at best unven brake pad wear, at worst pulsating in the brake pedal. This can become time consuming and possibly costly to properly diagnose. Especially if the car is taken back to the same monkey that caused the problem in the first place. Machined rotors, replaced hubs, replaced front bearings, etc etc. All because some lazy bugger could not take the time to correctly torque the lug nuts.

seedy

great write up, thanks a ton.

I'm about to tackle this project and will be ordering from majestic honda to order 2x rotors and 1 set of front pads.


The potential for the hub/bearing assembly being rusted into the rotor is quite high.

Would it be wise or advisable to spray some PB blaster/Kroil around the backside of the hub/bearing assembly to help loosen it from the rotor?

I'm not sure if spraying PB blaster/kroil will damage any part of the bearing assembly or hub.

Any thoughts?

I'm planning on doing the eric car guy method (without removing the entire knuckle or using a bearing puller) as seen here:
thanks a lot

bs1231

Hey there, A newbie here, just joined today.
Thanks for this thread and all the information. I just read all 7 pages after spending all day yesterday fighting to replace rotors on my son's 97 accord.

I don't know how y'all get to those 12mm's on the backside. I bought a cheap 12mm offset set from HFreight, ground it down to get it to fit, and it was so thin by the time I got it to fit, it broke. So I decide to pull the knuckle and take it to the local machine shop to do the bearing and rotor.
Now my problem: I can't get the axle to back out of the hub/rotor assly. I have all the ball joints loose, the knuckle is hanging from the upper castle nut barely on, hit it with a rubber mallet, tried a block of wood and a small sledge, and tried the hub puller just to break it loose and push it back. Everything is loose enough, but the axle won't budge.

Maybe the fact that I didn't have room for the wrench in back and the axle being stuck is related somehow?

Am I missing something here?

Thanks!
Brad

Joseph Grant

Great write up just bummer kuz im looking for the socket sizes i need for it all so i can make sure i have all sockets needed b4 i start the job that is probably the only thing this post could use is atleast a list of all sockets needed. Sorry not trying to nit pick yur post im sure yu took alot of time making it it is very helpful for sure just doesnt have information im looking for