etsie538

Ok, here's what I got. Car will turn over but wont kick. Have:

New Plugs
New Wires
New Main Relay
New Timing Belt
New Water Pump

Not getting spark to distributor, but changed distributor and still the same. Have Gas and have tried to start with ether thru intake and still nothing. Have had 3 "mobile mechs" look at it and try to figure out but still nothing. I searched all over the place for ideas but still nothing.

I do know timing is off by a little...maybe a 1/4 according to one mech, but still the main thing is no spark to distrib. Have also swaped out ignition coils several times and nothing changed.

I'm desperate and at a total loss...

Thanks for any help.

etsie538

I have checked the fuses all good.

GoonieAsian

do you have an auto or manual? if you have a manual can you clutch start it? I am stumped as well. my 91 accord has been hesitant to start as well, but i can clutch start it. some has told me it could be a clogged cat but i haven't checked that yet.

craddock01

Try testing your ignition switch unplug 7 prong connector at the fusebox and use an Ohmeter theres three different tests you need to do for continuity,youll have to look it up in your manual.

poorman212

So have you tested, notice I say test not replace, the coil or ICM? If so what were the readings? Assume the CEL comes on for a few sec and turns off-and you hear the pump run-yes you've replace the main relay but I'm asking anyway....and no stored codes (15?).

etsie538

Tested coil and ignition switch all ok. I'm down to last thing which is ECM. Can someone tell me how I can test that before I replace.

Thanks

preludebro

First of all check your ECU fuse in the fuse box under the dash.
If it is fine then do the next step.
Put the key in your car, turn it to the ON positions, don't start it. Watch the CEL... Does it come on for 1-2 seconds and go off? If not, check your Main Relay switch witch is under the driver side kick panel. This Main Relay switch are known to fail in 91-93 Accord as the soldering joints crack. If it does go off... Turn the car completely off. Turn the key to the ON position which is accessories listen for a click noise somewhere around the dash while watching the CEL, when it goes off listen for another click noise. If you don't hear the first or second click then check your main relay switch. So, as you turn the ignition switch to the ON position (the one when all your instrument lights come on) you should hear a click and when the CEL goes off theres another click you should hear. I've had 2 Accords, a 91 and a 93 that wouldn't start due to a main relay switch.

preludebro

here is guide on the main relay switch...
http://techauto.awardspace.com/mainrelay.html

Note: In the how to link it says to remove the solder and put fresh solder on it but you don't have to. Just heat the solder up enough to melt so it makes contact and no cracks.
Assuming that is the problem and you decide to do the soldering fix.

etsie538

Ya, as I had mentioned earlier I have changed the main. Just 1 day ago. When car first stopped non starting, I bypassed the scanner and got several codes but couldnt really interpret the morse code, the next day the CEL would come on when I would try to start the card and starting flashing codes without the scanner being bypassed (thought that was odd), NOW after everything things been changed out including Main Relay, have no more CEL flashing. Again, I down to ECM and want to somehow check it before replacing. I have taken it out and "smelled" it as some have suggested and visually looked at it and all seems ok, but just want to make sure.

etsie538

The ECM seems to be the last thing left for me on DIY....I've had 4 "mobile mechanics" as well as myself and no one can come up with anything definitively.....I'm getting tired of guessing and really dont want to take to shop. I'm already into it nearly as much as the car is worth (well worth more to me) but anyway....really appreciate everyones ideas. Is there a way to test the ECM without major equiptment?

preludebro

Distributor cap? Rotary button? Coil wire? ECU fuse? Ignition Module/Control Unit/Ignitor?

poorman212

As suggested-have you tested the ICM. Asked the question and you responed about the coil-but then stated the ign switch.
And please explain more about what you mean by "no spark to distrib". So does that mean no power INTO the dist or NO SPARK OUT OF the dist?

preludebro

^ What he said.

preludebro

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9K78XIhhjAQ
Ignition system. enjoy.

preludebro

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBUYs539cy4

phootbag

The ECM sends a timing signal to the ICM. Without this signal the ICM will not operate the ignition coil. There is one wire that will send a pulsing 12 volt signal from the ECM to the ICM for ignition timing. Can't recall the wire off the top of my head but you asked how to test the ECM, well, that's how.

etsie538

Thanks people for all the responses. I decided I was out of options and sent it to a repair shop...still haven't heard anything. what I meant to say was it seemed not power to the distibutor, I and 3 of the "mechs" that looked at it did power light and 1 did meter tests on everything to see what had power etc...for some reason there was nothing into the distributor. If I could figure out what wire sends the 12 v pulse to the ICM then I might be able to test it....anyone have any ideas on how to find out which wire from the ECM that is.

Again, thanks for all the help..

Todd Peter Howa

Have you checked the ground to PCM at thermostat housing. These get coorosion and need to be removed cleaned and re-installed. Ive seen many a mechanic miss this.

etsie538

Thanks everyone...well oddly Todd had it right...wish I would have seen his post before I went thru everything I did...7 mechanic plus myself couldnt figure it out...until........wholly cow "why is that wire loose" way back under there...lol
It was the GROUND WIRE! but someone had put deeper in rather than under the thermostat houseing, so it was just stroke of luck that I saw it...

Really thanks to everyone for all the help and now the next situation........(see new post)

zoom7881

I had a 93 accord 10th edition & I ran into the same problem recently and already done many things like yours but there is no spark at the spark plugs and I am ready to send it to the repair shop!
Just curious if you can point out where is that ground wire to PCM. Somehow I have trouble to find it.
Thanks.

Lost Again

On your 93 - it is on the t-start housing where the lower hose connects to the engine.

zoom7881

Hello,

Is it the two wire connector that joined a bundle of wires right below that pipe?

Anyhow, can you clarify two terms for me as well. Is ECM as same as ECU (Engine Control unit as per Haynes Manual)? What/where PCM? Haynes manual does not mention this term.

Last and not least, I did test the tension coil (connect to distributor with 4 spark plug wires) as per Haynes' instruction/spec and here are the values:

Again, I have a 1993 Honda accord special edition.

A&C =0.6-0.8ohm ---> mine is 0.1ohm
A& Secondary terminal =14k-22kohm ---> mine is 18kohm
B&D (1993) =19k-25kohm ---> mine is 2024ohm. However, it also mentioned B&D (1992) =2.1k-2.3Kohm

Do you think I have a 1992 tension coil or I need to replace this unit?

holmesnmanny

The ground is a rounded circular connector that is facing up and bolted to the bottom right of the thermostat housing. It has a rubber-type covering around the wiring as it goes back to the ecu side.

ecm = ecu = pcm

high tension coil = ignition coil

ignitor = ignition control module

you can use this site to properly test your ignition system

http://techauto.awardspace.com/

zoom7881

Thanks for the tip. I'll keep you posted.

zoom7881

Hello,
The no start problem turned out was the igniter issue. Got a new set of distributor/Igniter today, put it in and the engine came to life. Thanks to everyone for your input.
However, now the car has another issue and it is better to start a new post. The brake lights (R/L) won't come on and the I can't shift out of park.