mrfixit54

Hello fellow enthusiasts...
I had just finished snugging the serp and PS belts then drove this beautiful LX down the road. About one mile away the engine quit instantly; coincidental to belt tightening but not related, I think. At this time I had good crank but no start. I also could hear the fuel pump cycle each time I turned the key. Once when cranked I got a sputter but no start.

I had the car towed back home (flat bed) & pushed inside. Yesterday, the following day, I checked for spark, and the engine fired/started normally! Two summers ago I replaced the main relay...if the car sat in the hot summer sun the engine would crank but never start...the new relay cured that.

I have studied all that I could find on the topic ignitor, ignition switch, and coil. This Accord has 90,000 miles with original fuel filter, which I kinda suspect. The engine will again start fine but I can not trust it.

• Can the ignitor fail intermittently?
• I will wiggle the ignition switch when it is warmed up and idling to rule that out.
• I will replace the fuel filter no matter what, and I will cut it open to see how dirty it is inside.

Can anyone offer any other advice? This is the first that this 1993 has ever had any mysterious starting issues.
MANY Thanks! Eric

brakedrum

Yes, Ignitors can kill spark, and then after a rest, work fine, only to die again a few miles down the road. It's all about whether the ignitor can consistently produce spark strong enough to keep ignition going. After miles and miles of use, they cannot.

One time when it cuts off, perhaps leave the key on and check the spark at a plug. Spark strong and hot enough to keep ignition going should be white in color. Spark that is orange-ish or more bluish than white, is not strong enough, and you will get the engine stalls like yours is doing. It's a tiny part, but the most important one in the whole ignition system.

mrfixit54

Thanks brakedrum for taking time to reply to my post. I will now plan on replacing the ignitor but have this question. Should I stay with a genuine Honda part or would using an aftermarket part, say like Standard Motor Products be Okay? Perhaps there is a brand that you know is worthy and one that won't fail and leave us stranded?

brakedrum

Not necessary to go with Honda parts for that. Lots of good aftermarket, but there are some cheapies out there. But I have had good luck with the Beck-Arnley ones from Advance Auto, but they are not cheap. Cardone also has a decent remanufactured one. Because of the price and the labor to install the ignitor, I generally just replace the whole distributor, so all the other stuff is new too. I like to get a lot of miles out of parts, so I pay more for quality ones that last a while. If you do buy the ignitor separately, and install it, be sure to read up on coating it properly with proper grease to protect from heat. It gets incredibly hot in operation; just like a CPU on a motherboard.

mrfixit54

Thanks again brakedrum,

I wound up buying the WVE/Airtex/WELLS product sold thru Autozone under the Duralast label (about $60.00); Wells' video boasts on quality in manufacture.

Removing the rotor was a challenge. As you know, I learned the 91-93 distributors do not use a lock screw on the rotor. With gentle heat, a drop of Aero Kroil penetrating oil, and some very careful pry work I got the rotor to let loose.

I did remove the distributor for this process, as the two ICM retaining screws are very tight.
My impact screw driver did not have a bit small enough to fit the tiny phillips head screws. I placed the distributor on my drill press. Using a screwdriver, I applied downward pressure with the drill press chuck/quill. Those screws backed off with ease...no rounded heads are allowed.

I looked online for application of heat sink compound but found none on this vital topic. I applied the enclosed slug of compound between the ICM and the plate to which it fastens. I assume this is how the heat is transferred to the sink that is mounts to.

All back together she started right up. I did replace the fuel filter. No leaks afterwards...the Japanese sure engineered that filter assembly well.

I will now test, locally for sure. The motor quit last time with only a few minutes of run time. If I survive 30-60 minutes I should be Okay.

Thanks again!!!

brakedrum

Sorry I forgot to mention that rotor button screw that is so devilish. The first time I did it, that screw took over an hour to get out. I finally found a strange little fat screwdriver in my toolbox and it worked. I got good leverage and that blade wasn't budging unless the screw did too. Breaking the head off the screw was a concern, but being such a crucial screw, I knew Honda selected high-quality metal. Hope the ICM was the trouble. Your'e right....if she keeps running, you fixed it.

mrfixit54

I believe the ICM was the culprit. I have driven the Honda now about an hour in total with no sign of trouble. Perhaps it is only perception but with new fuel filter and ICM this seems to have ever more power.

In recent past I have repaired three leaks on the power steering. One was a pressure line the other two were returns. I always kept the reservoir full with Honda fluid. After my most recent PS return line repair I now seem to have a heavier than normal feel in the steering wheel. I did bleed the system with car in air rotating steering wheel L to R 10 times. I consider a PS seal kit and just wonder if you may have tips on this topic? New Falken tires with 32 PSI.
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1993 Honda Acord LX Sedan 90,000

brakedrum

Good to hear. Yeah, the new ignition parts will make better power. Your spark was weak enough to stall out, but even before that point, it was getting weak, but fighting to keep running. In recent years, I have started replacing my distributor when the miles on it get high, and I can feel the lack of umph in the power when I am driving.

Can't help you much with the other stuff. I have always used basic Prestone PS fluid in mine and never had a problem. Is there lack of responsiveness, or lag, when turning the wheel, or is it just hard to turn? Maybe the pump is hitting end-of-life.

mrfixit54

Regarding the power steering, It is responsive and there is no lag at all. In fact as I drove the car yesterday the steering seems very okay; effortless, but when you begin the turn a slight bit of resistance is felt. while maintaining the turn there is no effort required...no groans heard either. Thinking back, when this car was new, I sorta remember this having a slight heaviness to the steering.

After all the leaks and repairs, I got it in my head that the steering may be a bit heavier than I recall, almost as though the tire pressure was low. You see, this is not my car but my mom's so I don't drive it all that much...just maintain it.

Anyway, all is well for now. Thanks a million brakedrum you are most knowledgeable and helpful with your posts.
_______________________________
1993 Honda Accord LX Sedan 90,000

brakedrum

No problem... Hope your 4th Generation Accord keeps going a long time. In my opinion, they are the best Hondas ever built.

mrfixit54

I have logged a few hundred miles since replacing the ICM and have had no troubles! That is a welcome relief as many of those miles were far from home. Without a pan drop and filter replacement I would like to drain some ATF at each oil change in order to refresh the ATF over time. In your opinion must I use genuine Honda ATF or is there a branded name product that is satisfactory?

brakedrum

Good on the worry-free driving.

Mine is MT, but when I change the fluid, I get the Honda stuff from the parts counter at one of the dealerships. I think nowadays you can even get it on sites like Amazon. I suspect any good MT fluid would also work fine. For AT, Honda likely has a fluid for your older engine, but any good Dextron II fluid would probably work just as well. Opinions vary on fluids, so others may have thoughts.

Honda also makes a motor oil, but I never once thought about putting it in my crankcase. It would probably work perfectly, but good oil is good oil. My car is old now, so the Castrol High Mileage (in the green bottle) is what I use, and the engine likes it. It has always had Castrol Synthetic Blend of some variety, but changing from the white to green bottle happened around 175,000 miles. And oddly enough, I have only put 20w50 in this car. Just my personal choice. I don't recommend it to others, and Honda doesn't recommend it either.

mrfixit54

Hello Mr. Brakedrum,
Thanks for your insite to my questions...
I use Lubrication Engineers Monolec 15w/40 in my air cooled motors for summ=
er... Great Stuff too.
My concern today is the same 1993 Honda accord LX. After start up, depress =
brake pedal, hear the solenoid click but when I depress the thumb operated =
shift lever release I hear a second click (not sure if this is normal or no=
t). Anyway it seems to re-lock the release mechanism. I can't move lever in=
to reverse without great effort.


I have watched videos on the topic but puzzled with this condition. The con=
dition started months ago...it stared out in the colder months. As I shifte=
d into reverse I noticed it was a bit stiff but always moved. As time went =
on the stiffness grew stronger to the point of the shifter will almost not =
come out of park. With a good yank though I can get it out of park, but som=
ething is not right here.


I once thought this a lubrication issue but now I believe it is a relay/sol=
enoid issue.=20


The main relay is fine, recently replaced, and the solenoid fuse is fine as=
evidenced by the obvious click sound each time the brake is depressed.


Thanks for your help brakedrum!