blown alcohol

What else should I change? Car has 250k miles
Timing Belt
Product ID: 14400-P8A-A02
Belt, Power Steering Pump (Mitsubishi)
Product ID: 56992-P8A-A01
Drive Belt
Product ID: 38920-P8C-A02
Tensioner Pulley
Product ID: 14510-PGE-A01
Water Pump Assembly
Product ID: 19200-P8A-A02
Camshaft Seal
Product ID: 91213-R70-A02

holmesnmanny

2nd cam seal, crank seal

moapys

How did the replacement go - 'any surprises? I'm likely to go for a "kit" (including seals, etc)...either Aisen or OEM.

Also, since there is through-wheel-well work, would a lift have been helpful? I have access (albeit not close-by), but won't bother if not crucial. THX

blown alcohol

I am getting the parts list together. I a less than a year away (miles).

moapys

FWIW - "Eric - the car guy" suggests not doing the seals, unless they are leaking; his experience is more folks introduce leaks in the swap, than would have been there <?>. I was a little surprised, but he'd noted that a few times in various places, so either guys don't seat the replacements properly, or perhaps the aftermarkets are inferior to the OEM/originals. I'll likely get mine done in early February, so will provide some updates.

holmesnmanny

the key is to absolutely not score the housing when pulling the seals out and to make sure to put some grease on the inner lip so it breaks in properly instead of tearing upon initial movement when dry

moapys

Folks, I'm about to embark on this tomorrow; I think that I've compiled all of the requisite belts (timing, plus two serpentine/drive) - but one more "harmonic belt" or "balancer belt" appears sporadically in print: This appears to be a simple v-belt, but before I tear it the engine (J30a1 V-6) apart for the t'belt, I'd appreciate one more revalidation that some additional belt - not readily findable from chain stores or online - doesn't exist! Since folks don't always fully identify their engines, perhaps there were some I-4/V-6 confusifactors...

THX

moapys

(Cross posted from my feedback on ETG's site)
The job went perfectly (I used the crank-bolt "trifecta"; PBsoak/heat/weighted-impact-socket*). Props to EricTheCarGuy for the triple-check TAUT-front/SLACK-rear; I've done BMW's, but this was more "sneaky"...despite being locked all around when reinstalling, the heads remained spot-on, but the crank 'looked a half-tooth' off: In fact, getting the front of the belt extra taut, allowed me to nudge back the crank - pipe wrench with plugs out works great - and DEAD ON.

A couple of other hints: Get a bazillion wobble and flex extension 1/4" for the 10mm rear t/b covers (a real clearance P.I.T.A.); at least on this Accord, it required micro-fingers. Also, suggest you jot down disassembly order, being mindful of when the engine-mount block occurs. Don't try this after the covers, as its lip lies beneath the covers' seals...oops.

*the reference to the weighted socket (used only with a modest electric impact wrench) was this: To "simulate" the Lisle 'torque-enhancing' socket, I spun on a spool of lead solder to my 19mm impact. This gave it enough oooph to easily take off the nut, when the un-enhanced socket did not. TaDa!