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#GDDD: General Detailing Discussion & Debate

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Old 12-29-2017, 07:08 AM
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Default #GDDD: General Detailing Discussion & Debate

Just wanted a place to discuss the ins and outs of automotive detailing since the sub-forum for that is dead. Post your equipment, post your preferred products, ask questions, discuss technique, give tips, whatever.

Let's discuss generally
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Old 12-29-2017, 07:09 AM
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Default Re: #GDDD: General Detailing Discussion & Debate

Generally ready to hear discussions about this
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Old 12-29-2017, 07:16 AM
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Old 12-29-2017, 07:18 AM
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Default Re: #GDDD: General Detailing Discussion & Debate

I can't wait for spring. Planning on fixing all the little dings/nicks in the paint with a colormatch kit and blending it, getting the front bumper resprayed as well since it has some scratches in it all the way down to the plastic, and then getting the car ceramic coated.

I also need to buy a pressure washer as well and a buffer and some pads. I also have to figure out a way to organize everything and get rid of the clutter.

Also just bought some of these and loving them so far

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Old 12-29-2017, 07:19 AM
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Default Re: #GDDD: General Detailing Discussion & Debate

I've been trying to find good info on detailing but there are so many conflicting opinions out there... and so many damn products its insane.
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Old 12-29-2017, 07:27 AM
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The dump from 'Recent Purchase' thread....

Originally Posted by 213374U View Post
Spent my Christmas monies on this stuff...









Had a brainfart when I ordered the sealant, not realizing what I actually wanted was a coating. So added this yesterday...



Still need to get compound and polish. Which were the best Meguiar's for the job? Can't recall off the top of my head and haven't started searching yet.
Originally Posted by LightningTeg View Post
Why Meguiars?

M105 and M205

I use shine supply stuff nowadays and love it all. Flat top is there aggressive compound.
Originally Posted by Pinja View Post
Aww yiss 21337

I don't think your car needs a heavy cutting compound since it looks very clean from pics you've posted. If you're gonna Iron-X the whole car do that first then clay bar before doing anything else especially if you're gonna use CQuartz.

Also your car is a yuge bitch so set aside a good amount of time to do the whole car.
Originally Posted by 213374U View Post


Very, VERY light scratches here and there, a few that are deeper which look like cat claw marks but nothing that's going to require a ton of time to cut and correct. Just want to get everything but the rock chips as pristine as possible before coating it.

Plan is to take a half-day on a pretty Friday, spend the rest of that day/night wash, decon, wash, clay, wash, correct, wash, and seal... then let it sit and cure till I go to work on Monday. Definitely going to take my time and do the prep right so the coating will last.

Yuge bitch indeed
Originally Posted by 213374U View Post
Thanks!

No reason in particular, I've just seen their M-series polishes/compounds touted as the "go to" for so long by so many that it seems like a safe bet. What's better out there?
Originally Posted by Pinja View Post
Eh the Meguiar's stuff is the go-to for a reason. Price for their stuff is good unless you get into really high-end polishes and waxes.

Chemical Guys stuff is alright if you find deals on them but their problem is they have too much product overlapping and try to appeal to the bro-dude type crowd from what I've gathered
Originally Posted by .Grimace View Post
So if you were getting into detailing what are the basics and who would you buy them from? Asking for a friend

What is your take on Adam's?
Originally Posted by 213374U View Post
I get the same vibe from CG marketing, definitely going for the bro-douche crowd.

Wouldn't mind spending a little more for quality compounds/polishes/waxes, but I definitely don't need some $500/oz ultrarare unicorn semen infused carnauba paste. Just not sure what's out there and don't want to wade through the marketing hype.
Originally Posted by Pinja View Post
Haven't used much Adam's stuff but from what I hear their wheel cleaner is supposed to be top notch



The Meguiar's Mirror Glaze line is popular for a reason as far as cost/quality goes.

CG stuff is good as well but again you might find 5 products from them with different names but they all do the same job. Hell they have like 5 different car soaps from what I can tell they just smell different and are different colors.
Originally Posted by 213374U View Post
That's what I'm going with then, no need to re-invent the wheel on my daily driver
Originally Posted by 213374U View Post
Here's a question: What's a good wash for this type of work? I assume a "wash-n-wax" type soap would cause issues when trying to perform a correction.

Dawn dish soap to help strip all existing wax and whatever else from the vehicle? It'd only be during this process so I wouldn't imagine it would do any longterm damage to use Dawn, but I could be very wrong here.
Originally Posted by Pinja View Post
This is what my method would be:

wash car with stripper soap or with Dawn
dry car off best you can
Iron-X whole car including wheels (clean them with a brush at this time)
spray off with water
wash with regular car wash soap
clay bar entire car as well as the glass/windows
wash again
dry car off as much as you can
tape off trim/windows/glass
compound
polish
CQuartz
clean interior

done
Originally Posted by 213374U View Post
Looks good, but waxes and other stuff in the regular soap won't cause issues when I go ceramic coat it?
Originally Posted by CAN97SH View Post
Some people wax over their ceramic coatings to give it more gloss and depth

No point in washing with Dawn after a ceramic coating.
Originally Posted by Pinja View Post
Originally Posted by $amGD3 View Post
UGH, i want the result but that is so much damn work

I washed the car the other day and used Mother's Speed Clay on the roof,trunk and hood. I cant imagine doing the whole car AND THEN busting out the orbittal for a polish and AGAIN for a wax
Originally Posted by CAN97SH View Post
Didnt you just buy a bunch of gear?

You know what the worst part is? You spend 3 days getting your paint as perfect as you can and less than a month later it has swirl marks again.

Ceramic coating or not, you'll get swirls marks. I don't care how much you pay, the swirls will come back.

I still love it though and the results are amazing, even when then swirls come back.
Originally Posted by $amGD3 View Post
YEP, actually just bought a 12 pack of microfiber towels too. Gear and material wise, I think i'm ok. I have the sampler kit of polishes/waxes from the TorqX kit, I have 2-3 of each pad (CG) and now the towels (CG)

Doing the Mother's Speed Clay was actually very satisfying, you can literally see and feel the change as soon as you do it.
Originally Posted by CAN97SH View Post
Oh lol.

Nevermind wax, even a polish will need to be stripped prior to coatings. You'd want that paint to be as clean of any product as possible. A lot of people who use ceramic coatings will use a mix of isopropyl alcohol and water to clean the clear coat prior to a coating.

Prior to all of the above you'll want to do what Pinj suggested. At the very least a quick wash. IronX. Tar removal. Rinse. Paint correction. Polish. Then the ISO/water and then the coating.

​​​​​
Originally Posted by LightningTeg View Post
If you run your vehicles through auto car washes and don't wash them correctly sure.
Originally Posted by CAN97SH View Post
I never go through those car washes. I never use the brush at wand washes either. The sun, wind, dust and other elements cause swirls too and it doesn't take very long for them to come back after a fresh detail.

I've looked at cars that the owners swear their $1300 detail/coating job is 100% swirl free after a short period of time and it's full of swirls. The overall condition of the clear coat looks great but when you get close and look you can see them everywhere. It's unavoidable, especially for a daily driver.
Originally Posted by Pinja View Post
Yep

Even cars that spend most of their time in a garage under a car cover and only see the road on the nicest of days will still need polishing every now and then

On a DD though unless you're washing/waxing/polishing every other weekend you're gonna have swirls. Best thing for DD cars to retain a shine is with coating and a weekly wash/polish.
Originally Posted by LightningTeg View Post
The swirls show up from improper washing, not from cars getting dirty. If you simply wait until you can wash the car proper (wash bucket, microfiber mitt, foam cannon etc), you can avoid most of them. My DD often doesnt get washed more than once or twice in the winter and it doesnt have micro-marring afterwards.
Originally Posted by CAN97SH View Post
I've been detailing for years and I agree with some of what you say but in the end there is no escape. I wash my car with the most delicate products and touch my car as little as possible and guess what? A couple months after a fresh detail I have swirls. I don't wash or dry my car in a circular motion yet I still get swirl marks. I don't dry my car by wiping my waffle weave towels along the paint. I lay them down and let the water soak in and that's it. On the sides I simply press the towel against the doors and let the water soak in.

You also have to remember that not all clear coats are made the same. Some are very soft and some are very hard which will also determine how easy or hard it will be to maintain that shine.

It's not that I don't believe what you are saying Lightning but I don't believe what you are saying Give me your car for 2 minutes and I will point out all of the swirls for you.
Originally Posted by LightningTeg View Post
I've been doing it for 10 years that's just experience with personal cars. Of course you cant control what the customers do to the paint after it leave your hands, but I've had good luck keeping the swirls from coming back too bad after a full treatment. Usually its only bad in certain areas where I've been too aggressive with drying or washing.

Originally Posted by CAN97SH View Post


For sure you can't control customers cars. I have a black Mazda that I detail to perfection. I don't touch the car with anything other than a wash mitt. Two bucket method with foam canon, blah blah blah. I don't drag anything along the paint when trying. I use the same method as I have mentioned. Nothing touches the car in a circular motion yet after a couple months the hood is full of swirls. I really think they are caused by air currents and dust while driving as well as the sun beating down on it.
Originally Posted by 213374U View Post
Thanks!

But now I gotta buy coatings for my windshield and tires



The vid in the link Pinja shared above shows a 'surface cleansing polish' used before the coating, gonna go that route for sure.
Originally Posted by 213374U View Post
Black cars get swirls if you look at them wrong, you know this
Originally Posted by CAN97SH View Post


I bet that product cleansing polish is just water and iso except it will cost you 20x more It's worth investigating as I know for a fact that a lot of detailers use water/iso to remove all of the oils from the polish used prior to using a coating. Whatever method you choose good luck and post pics of the final product!



haha yea for real. It's almost not even worth it.....almost
Originally Posted by Charisma View Post
I own operate 'Detail Solutions' in Baltimore, Maryland Detail Solutions - Baltimore Maryland - Detailing and Coating Specialist. We coat roughly 10+ cars a week. Here are my 'expert' findings.

Coatings WILL help mitigate the number of wash marring/swirl marks; depending on which coating you go with. The most important part here is proper washing. My personal truck is a 2011 F150 (BLACK) that has Opti Coat Pro Plus on it (for 2.5 years now) - for 1.5 years I washed it with the same brush that we used on customers wheels/tires - my truck is now showing swirling - but minimal. The amount of abuse I gave my trucks finish is easily far and above that which my standard customer gives their coated vehicles.

I have customers who come to me for a 2-year off-the-shelf coating after a year they show a good bit of swirling, but I would be inclined to say still less than a non-coated car would.

I recently purchased my wife a new car and we coated it immediately. This is GM black (which is complete trash FYI) - it will be used as my 'control' unit. I will only be 100% properly washing her vehicle. I am quite confident when I say there will be little to no swirling in her vehicle after 1, 2 or even 3 years. When it is heavily soiled or salty I pre-soak with Optimum No Rinse, then come back and wash with ONR and a quality sponge. I've seen incredible results with this method on my customer's vehicles in the winter months and have seen little to no wash marring induced over years

I offer a handful of coating options to our customers - I find the most important thing when selling is being honest. It does not matter, over time you WILL induce marring no matter which coating you buy. Over time, if that type of thing bothers you-you will need to be repolished and recoated. Nothing lasts forever, regardless of what the manufacturer tells you. The important thing here is - your vehicle will look better, be easier to clean and any issues will likely only be in the coating, not the clear coat.
Originally Posted by 213374U View Post
That's what I'm looking for

Another question: What's the removal process like when it comes time to correct and coat again?
Originally Posted by CAN97SH View Post
1-3 years is very impressive. My buddy who recently got his Sunfire...yes sunfire fully detailed with CQuartz UK coating and within a year it has swirls.

Is CQuartz UK not as good as Opticoat? the UK version is supposed to be good for cold climates. He doesnt even winter drive it.
Originally Posted by Charisma View Post
There's a common misconception about the UK version and what it's good for. The product was reformulated for colder climates - it allows the flash time to be longer in colder weather.

CQuartz/UK is a 2 year over the counter coating. It's good for the hobbyist, but it's not something I sell. It's comparable to Optimum's Gloss Coat. I market these over the counter coatings to folks who are on a tighter budget and sell it as a 'ease of cleaning, better gloss, and the car stays cleaner longer' type deal. Not the wash marring resistance.

CQ, CQUK and Gloss coat are all marketed as a '2 year' coating.
Originally Posted by CAN97SH View Post
Does Opticoat pro plus require a curing process?

I am a hobbiest that will detail cars on the side but mostly just like to take good care of my cars. I have seen a number of coated cars here and every single one of them had swirls after a short period of time. I can't say anything for the customers washing procedures though.
Originally Posted by b20sedan View Post
I had Ceramic Pro done on Mrs.b20's '16 Civic, was really happy with the results, been a few months and it still looks good, of course it's pretty much a new car still.
Originally Posted by Charisma View Post
I try to keep our customers cars over night - Optimum suggests 12 hours before exposing to water. However, for the customers on a tight turnaround we top with Opti Seal after 1 hour and that acts as a protective barrier to the elements for 'curing' time.

12 hours - no water
7 days - no chemicals (including washing)
30 days full cure
Originally Posted by Charisma View Post
Polish off. Although, some of these coatings I've come to find are insanely hard (granted - after years it will have abraded away a fair bit so it won't require as much). We had a **** up on a Pro Plus here that took about 18 man hours of compounding to fully remove.
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Old 12-29-2017, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Pinja View Post
I can't wait for spring. Planning on fixing all the little dings/nicks in the paint with a colormatch kit and blending it, getting the front bumper resprayed as well since it has some scratches in it all the way down to the plastic, and then getting the car ceramic coated.

I also need to buy a pressure washer as well and a buffer and some pads. I also have to figure out a way to organize everything and get rid of the clutter.

Also just bought some of these and loving them so far
The Sti is damaged already¿?¿

I use large tupperware containers to organize my gear. Cleaning products in one, polisher and tools in one, towels in one and pads in one. I also store all my stuff in my basement as its too cold here

Originally Posted by JDM_Ej View Post
I've been trying to find good info on detailing but there are so many conflicting opinions out there... and so many damn products its insane.
Look up a dude named Mike Phillips. He has a lot of good info on youtube. Also look up Junkman detailing. He has some good info as well

There are a million products. I personally use Sonax and Pinnacle products for my paint correction and polishes. A lot of detailers use Meguires Professional products.
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Old 12-29-2017, 07:28 AM
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Same - I don’t understand the differences between the levels of polish. Like there’s polish that might be best for a brand new car, a 4 tear old car, of a 20 year old car with faded paint. Don’t want to ruin the vehicle
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Old 12-29-2017, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Pinja View Post
I also need to buy a pressure washer as well
The Sunjoe I got recently is awesome, but it may be more trouble than it's worth when it comes to washing the car. Definitely good to have for those deep washes when it's dirty af, but for maintenance washes it's easier to grab the hose.

Then again, I don't have a foam cannon yet so my use has been limited to rinsing. Can anyone recommend a good foam cannon that operates well around 2K PSI and won't break the bank?
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Old 12-29-2017, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by sflkgjsfndgn View Post
Same - I don’t understand the differences between the levels of polish. Like there’s polish that might be best for a brand new car, a 4 tear old car, of a 20 year old car with faded paint. Don’t want to ruin the vehicle
I believe a lot of this comes down to the kind of paint and clearcoat (if any) that you're working on. Some manufacturers use notoriously hard clear coats that require a ton of cut, then some use very soft clear coats that need more gentle love to get right. Most of it comes down to experience, but there are plenty of resources to help nail down what you need for your particular application.
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Old 12-29-2017, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by CAN97SH View Post
The Sti is damaged already¿?¿

I use large tupperware containers to organize my gear. Cleaning products in one, polisher and tools in one, towels in one and pads in one. I also store all my stuff in my basement as its too cold here



Look up a dude named Mike Phillips. He has a lot of good info on youtube. Also look up Junkman detailing. He has some good info as well

There are a million products. I personally use Sonax and Pinnacle products for my paint correction and polishes. A lot of detailers use Meguires Professional products.
Nice, thank you.

Originally Posted by 213374U View Post
I believe a lot of this comes down to the kind of paint and clearcoat (if any) that you're working on. Some manufacturers use notoriously hard clear coats that require a ton of cut, then some use very soft clear coats that need more gentle love to get right. Most of it comes down to experience, but there are plenty of resources to help nail down what you need for your particular application.
My Mazdaspeed is Celestial Blue Mica. There are a few rock chips on the car I would like to get touched up but I know its not as simple as just applying the touch up paint from the little bottle. When I bought the car the salesman did it on a few and they looked like ****. Also in the right light the rear bumper does not match the rest of the car so may have to respray both bumpers one of these days. Otherwise I'm just looking to protect the paint and maintain.

My 225k mile 00 CRV is Milano Red, I was considering using that car to try out some paint correction, polishing and buffing before trying on my newer vehicles. If I **** that car up, who cares.
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Old 12-29-2017, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by 213374U View Post
The Sunjoe I got recently is awesome, but it may be more trouble than it's worth when it comes to washing the car. Definitely good to have for those deep washes when it's dirty af, but for maintenance washes it's easier to grab the hose.

Then again, I don't have a foam cannon yet so my use has been limited to rinsing. Can anyone recommend a good foam cannon that operates well around 2K PSI and won't break the bank?
I'm guessing you got the SPX2000? I got the same one just for mobile detailing.

I got the generic MATCC foam cannon off amazon. It works good with the Shine supply soap I use, but it does seem to only really work on the last 1/4 turn of adjustment on the feed ****. The purpose of foaming is really to hit the car first with it, let it do work for a few minutes, and then spray it all off before you hit the car with the soapy mitt. It will dissolve the dirt and keep more swirls away created from washing.











Some photos of my jobs this year. Not too many since I moved about an hour south of the city, and don't have a garage for locals. That should be better next year
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Old 12-29-2017, 07:47 AM
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Real talk. I just pay to get it done.

It is too time consuming.
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Old 12-29-2017, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by CAN97SH View Post
The Sti is damaged already¿?¿
Just a couple small scratches in the front bumper

School bus kicked up a license plate that was in the road back in October and it whacked the front bumper. Haven't fixed it yet since I was planning to buy a painted bumper off eBay in the spring and use my original one as a road trip/track day bumper. Plus I wanted to install a JDM grille and the LED foglight bezels while it was off anyways so might as well install them on the new bumper.
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Old 12-29-2017, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by 213374U View Post
The Sunjoe I got recently is awesome, but it may be more trouble than it's worth when it comes to washing the car. Definitely good to have for those deep washes when it's dirty af, but for maintenance washes it's easier to grab the hose.

Then again, I don't have a foam cannon yet so my use has been limited to rinsing. Can anyone recommend a good foam cannon that operates well around 2K PSI and won't break the bank?
I personally use the MTM canon which isnt cheap but if you look on ebay for foam canons you will find a lot of cheaper ones. I'm guessing they are mostly all the same though. I have the same pressure washer as you and the canon works pretty good

Originally Posted by 213374U View Post
I believe a lot of this comes down to the kind of paint and clearcoat (if any) that you're working on. Some manufacturers use notoriously hard clear coats that require a ton of cut, then some use very soft clear coats that need more gentle love to get right. Most of it comes down to experience, but there are plenty of resources to help nail down what you need for your particular application.
You also have to consider pads as some are more harsh than others. A combo of both polishes and pads will help you figure out whats best for you but you are right.....clear coats are all different. The general rule from what I've researched is Japanese cars have soft clear coats and German clear coats are harder. Not sure about American cars.

The only way to determine what will work best is trial and error. The rule of thumb though is use the least abrasive compound, polish and pad to get the job done.
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Old 12-29-2017, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by CAN97SH View Post
You also have to consider pads as some are more harsh than others. A combo of both polishes and pads will help you figure out whats best for you but you are right.....clear coats are all different. The general rule from what I've researched is Japanese cars have soft clear coats and German clear coats are harder. Not sure about American cars.

The only way to determine what will work best is trial and error. The rule of thumb though is use the least abrasive compound, polish and pad to get the job done.
My buddy went to the junkyard and bought a trunk lid to practice polishing with his buffer on when he first started getting into detailing. He also gets a new one every now and then when he gets new products or pads to see how they vary.
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Old 12-29-2017, 07:54 AM
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Mitsubishi paint is pretty shitty but I was able to make it shine pretty good





Originally Posted by Pinja View Post
My buddy went to the junkyard and bought a trunk lid to practice polishing with his buffer on when he first started getting into detailing. He also gets a new one every now and then when he gets new products or pads to see how they vary.
This is an excellent idea. Even something I would like to do. This is particular important (practice on junkyard panels) when getting into rotary polishers.
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Old 12-29-2017, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by JDM_Ej View Post
My 225k mile 00 CRV is Milano Red, I was considering using that car to try out some paint correction, polishing and buffing before trying on my newer vehicles. If I **** that car up, who cares.
This would be a great candidate car to learn on, HOWEVER, I believe these were single-stage paint with no clear from the factory so the method to tackle this job would not be the same as doing something like a Corvette which has an incredibly hard clear coat. Again, it all comes down to experience so get out and start toying with it.

Originally Posted by LightningTeg View Post
I'm guessing you got the SPX2000? I got the same one just for mobile detailing.

I got the generic MATCC foam cannon off amazon. It works good with the Shine supply soap I use, but it does seem to only really work on the last 1/4 turn of adjustment on the feed ****. The purpose of foaming is really to hit the car first with it, let it do work for a few minutes, and then spray it all off before you hit the car with the soapy mitt. It will dissolve the dirt and keep more swirls away created from washing.
SPX3001 actually, great little washer so far

I've read the benefits of foaming before and it made a ton of sense, was one of the big motivators for me behind buying the washer actually.

Originally Posted by rico91stang View Post
Real talk. I just pay to get it done.

It is too time consuming.
For sure, but it's a source of pride for me, to say that I did it all myself when compliments are given. And the time goes by quick for me, it's one of those Zen kind of tasks like mowing or sweeping that allow me to get lost in thought because the task at hand doesn't require a ton of attention. Polishing the car will require more attention than sweeping, but not much.
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Old 12-29-2017, 07:58 AM
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Default Re: #GDDD: General Detailing Discussion & Debate

I cant' wait for this cold **** to go away so I can use my Pressure washer damnit!!!!!
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Old 12-29-2017, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Mattb16teg View Post
I cant' wait for this cold **** to go away so I can use my Pressure washer damnit!!!!!
This. I'm stuck using wash bays for now
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Old 12-29-2017, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by 213374U View Post
I believe a lot of this comes down to the kind of paint and clearcoat (if any) that you're working on. Some manufacturers use notoriously hard clear coats that require a ton of cut, then some use very soft clear coats that need more gentle love to get right. Most of it comes down to experience, but there are plenty of resources to help nail down what you need for your particular application.
well any idea where I would start for a........GMC Sierra!....... from 2014 that's seen a lot of standard shitty car washes
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Old 12-29-2017, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 213374U View Post
For sure, but it's a source of pride for me, to say that I did it all myself when compliments are given. And the time goes by quick for me, it's one of those Zen kind of tasks like mowing or sweeping that allow me to get lost in thought because the task at hand doesn't require a ton of attention. Polishing the car will require more attention than sweeping, but not much.
this

Washing my car and mowing the lawn I can just turn my brain off

Everyone needs that every now and then
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Old 12-29-2017, 08:01 AM
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I'm just gonna say it...

My shop ONLY uses a pressure washer for wheels/tires and wheel wells.
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Old 12-29-2017, 08:04 AM
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Old 12-29-2017, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by sflkgjsfndgn View Post
well any idea where I would start for a........GMC Sierra!....... from 2014 that's seen a lot of standard shitty car washes
Color? If black - woof, have fun!
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