H2B EVOLUTION INDUSTRIES H2B......................FREE Shipping/HT Pricing
11-16-2006, 10:15 AM
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Re: (antiJDM)
The kit was just recently released to the public and that is the reason for the lack of information on the kit. Ive installed the kit on my personal car and have some info that may address some of your concerns.
Ok, Im going to try and do a brief writeup to answer some of the concerns that have been asked about the new Evolution Industries H2B kit. Ive tried not to throw out any false information, and thats the reason why Ive kept my mouth shut, and waited for the kit to be installed by me personally before I started answering questions. The only applications offered currently are the EG and DC. Theyre currently working on other applications but there is still no set date for when those kits will be released. If you guys have any other questions or need pics of something just let me know and Ill try my best to get them for you.
Quality:
I know that there were some questions about the quality of the kit. The quality of the kit is exceptional and in my opinion surpasses that of any other H2B kit on the market. Everything is CAD designed and CNC machined. The rear intermediate shaft adapter is TIG welded stainless steel with a black oxide finish. Engine mounts are #70 polyurethane.
Transmission Adapter Plate:
There were some rumors that the plate was 3/8" thick, but the adapter plate is actually 1/2" thick and comes with solid steel dowels already installed. The plate also allows you to run the lower flywheel dust shield from a B series motor.
Axles and shift linkage:
B series axles and shift linkage are used. I dont have an engineering background so Im not going to try and get technical about this (hit up Bisi for engineering questions). I am a competent mechanic and have common sense. There is nothing irregualr about how the axles sit, and the car drives without any binding whatsoever. Again shift linkage sits like a stock B series and shifts smoothly without problems.
Clutch Slave Cylinder:
The kit utilizes an adapter block which creates enough spacing to clear the transmission adapter plate. The clutch fork has also been exteded outward to compensate for the spacing block. The clutch slave cylinder sits straight just like stock and engages and disengages without issues. There is no irregular pedal travel or engagement like some had speculated.
Flywheel/Clutch: The kit includes a one piece flywheel/spacer that weighs in at 10lbs, and retains the timing marks. Also includes an interesting piece which bends over the flywheel bolts and keeps them from backing out. A B series clutch kit is required.
Clearance:
Intermediate Shaft:
I was actually suprised by how little needs to be shaved from the engine block. Still plenty of meat left for the oil pan gasket.
Before
After
Frame Rail:
A couple things need to be done to make clearance for the drivers side frame rail. You will need to have the power steering machined down from your crank pulley (should be around $50). You will also need to run a custom alternator bracket. I ran the http://www.ExplicitSpeedPerformance.net alternator bracket ($75 shipped) with a D series alternator. With this done, there is no need to bang in the frame rail and you can still run both upper and lower timing belt covers.
Hood Clearance: If youre running an OEM hood you will need to cut a small portion of the webbing from under the hood. Because my MAP sensor is located on top of the throttle body it was necessary for me to run 1" spacers in the back of the hood. If youre running a firewall mounted MAP, then the hood will be able to close fully with only the small portion of webbing from the underside of the hood being trimmed out.
Ground Clearance:
The motor tilts forward so the lowest part of the engine is the actually the bend at the header and the front of the oil pan. I'd say that the oil pan and header are about 1.5" lower than the traction bar and about 1.5" lower than a regular B series swap.
Header:
The motor tilts towards the front of the car so your header must be modified. DC header reangled with a 2.5" collector mod. You could probably take your header to a local muffler shop and have them modify it for you.
Finished Product:
I know that a few of you guys were interested in the Dsport article that came out last month and werent able to find a copy. But here it is, just click on the link for a larger version. Hopefully the resolution is good enough so that you can read it.
Modified by Alchemist at 11:04 AM 6/28/2007
Ok, Im going to try and do a brief writeup to answer some of the concerns that have been asked about the new Evolution Industries H2B kit. Ive tried not to throw out any false information, and thats the reason why Ive kept my mouth shut, and waited for the kit to be installed by me personally before I started answering questions. The only applications offered currently are the EG and DC. Theyre currently working on other applications but there is still no set date for when those kits will be released. If you guys have any other questions or need pics of something just let me know and Ill try my best to get them for you.
Quality:
I know that there were some questions about the quality of the kit. The quality of the kit is exceptional and in my opinion surpasses that of any other H2B kit on the market. Everything is CAD designed and CNC machined. The rear intermediate shaft adapter is TIG welded stainless steel with a black oxide finish. Engine mounts are #70 polyurethane.
Transmission Adapter Plate:
There were some rumors that the plate was 3/8" thick, but the adapter plate is actually 1/2" thick and comes with solid steel dowels already installed. The plate also allows you to run the lower flywheel dust shield from a B series motor.
Axles and shift linkage:
B series axles and shift linkage are used. I dont have an engineering background so Im not going to try and get technical about this (hit up Bisi for engineering questions). I am a competent mechanic and have common sense. There is nothing irregualr about how the axles sit, and the car drives without any binding whatsoever. Again shift linkage sits like a stock B series and shifts smoothly without problems.
Clutch Slave Cylinder:
The kit utilizes an adapter block which creates enough spacing to clear the transmission adapter plate. The clutch fork has also been exteded outward to compensate for the spacing block. The clutch slave cylinder sits straight just like stock and engages and disengages without issues. There is no irregular pedal travel or engagement like some had speculated.
Flywheel/Clutch: The kit includes a one piece flywheel/spacer that weighs in at 10lbs, and retains the timing marks. Also includes an interesting piece which bends over the flywheel bolts and keeps them from backing out. A B series clutch kit is required.
Clearance:
Intermediate Shaft:
I was actually suprised by how little needs to be shaved from the engine block. Still plenty of meat left for the oil pan gasket.
Before
After
Frame Rail:
A couple things need to be done to make clearance for the drivers side frame rail. You will need to have the power steering machined down from your crank pulley (should be around $50). You will also need to run a custom alternator bracket. I ran the http://www.ExplicitSpeedPerformance.net alternator bracket ($75 shipped) with a D series alternator. With this done, there is no need to bang in the frame rail and you can still run both upper and lower timing belt covers.
Hood Clearance: If youre running an OEM hood you will need to cut a small portion of the webbing from under the hood. Because my MAP sensor is located on top of the throttle body it was necessary for me to run 1" spacers in the back of the hood. If youre running a firewall mounted MAP, then the hood will be able to close fully with only the small portion of webbing from the underside of the hood being trimmed out.
Ground Clearance:
The motor tilts forward so the lowest part of the engine is the actually the bend at the header and the front of the oil pan. I'd say that the oil pan and header are about 1.5" lower than the traction bar and about 1.5" lower than a regular B series swap.
Header:
The motor tilts towards the front of the car so your header must be modified. DC header reangled with a 2.5" collector mod. You could probably take your header to a local muffler shop and have them modify it for you.
Finished Product:
I know that a few of you guys were interested in the Dsport article that came out last month and werent able to find a copy. But here it is, just click on the link for a larger version. Hopefully the resolution is good enough so that you can read it.
Modified by Alchemist at 11:04 AM 6/28/2007
11-22-2006, 10:44 AM
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Re: (DVC2006)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DVC2006 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">WOW where the hell have I been? This is great. 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks man! Kit has just been released!
</TD></TR></TABLE>Thanks man! Kit has just been released!
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11-23-2006, 08:36 AM
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Re: (sikciv666)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sikciv666 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow that is a Fugin steal...
i dont even know what to say...i paid like 900 just for the plate..</TD></TR></TABLE>
you guys need a new claculator if you think it's cheaper than QSD.
$799 vs $1299
Even if you want to run aftermarket mounts (not needed) it's still cheaper.
i dont even know what to say...i paid like 900 just for the plate..</TD></TR></TABLE>
you guys need a new claculator if you think it's cheaper than QSD.
$799 vs $1299
Even if you want to run aftermarket mounts (not needed) it's still cheaper.
11-23-2006, 08:39 AM
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Re: (sikciv666)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sikciv666 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">matt i was waiting for you to chime in...
hows turkey day in CA?....</TD></TR></TABLE>
you know me
I just had breakfast, now it's time to watch some football
Happy Thanksgiving !!
hows turkey day in CA?....</TD></TR></TABLE>
you know me
I just had breakfast, now it's time to watch some football
Happy Thanksgiving !!
11-23-2006, 08:49 AM
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its not cheaper but its a better deal imo...you get a flywheel which would cost you at the bare minimum $220 and you get mounts which hasports are real expensive and you get super cool liscense plate frames
******* miami is losing
******* miami is losing
11-23-2006, 08:53 AM
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Re: (SB tuning)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SB tuning »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its not cheaper but its a better deal imo...you get a flywheel which would cost you at the bare minimum $220 and you get mounts which hasports are real expensive and you get super cool liscense plate frames
******* miami is losing</TD></TR></TABLE>
Flywheels are 189 shipped here on HT. You should know aftermarket mounts are not required with the QSD kit however aftermarket mounts can be used if desired and hasport is one of many options for mounts
Like I said it's a cheaper option and Miami is going down
******* miami is losing
</TD></TR></TABLE>Flywheels are 189 shipped here on HT. You should know aftermarket mounts are not required with the QSD kit however aftermarket mounts can be used if desired and hasport is one of many options for mounts
Like I said it's a cheaper option and Miami is going down
11-23-2006, 08:57 AM
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damn thats a good deal on flywheels lol...and yeah aftermarket mounts are an option and if your gonna get this kit, your gonna drag race, and if you drag race with stock mounts, they prob wont last more then 1 run with slicks, so either way your gonna end up using mounts....ohh well merry turkey day.
miami isnt my team, but im in a pool and with the spread i picked miami, but they prob are going down....im a bears fan
miami isnt my team, but im in a pool and with the spread i picked miami, but they prob are going down....im a bears fan
11-23-2006, 09:01 AM
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Re: (SB tuning)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SB tuning »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn thats a good deal on flywheels lol...and yeah aftermarket mounts are an option and if your gonna get this kit, your gonna drag race, and if you drag race with stock mounts, they prob wont last more then 1 run with slicks, so either way your gonna end up using mounts....ohh well merry turkey day.
miami isnt my team, but im in a pool and with the spread i picked miami, but they prob are going down....im a bears fan</TD></TR></TABLE>
Poly inserts work well
Beer+Turkey+Football
miami isnt my team, but im in a pool and with the spread i picked miami, but they prob are going down....im a bears fan
</TD></TR></TABLE>Poly inserts work well
Beer+Turkey+Football
11-27-2006, 07:04 PM
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Re: (skunked)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skunked »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you guys need a new claculator if you think it's cheaper than QSD.
$799 vs $1299
Even if you want to run aftermarket mounts (not needed) it's still cheaper.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am in no way bad mouthing the QSD kit, but I feel like there's alot of misinformation flying around about the two kits. Obviously the Evo Ind is $1299 shipped while the QSD kit is $799 + shipping. But if you look into the specifics of each kit you'll understand that after buying mounts and a flywheel for the QSD kit, it actually comes out to be more expensive than the Evo Ind Kit.
QSD Kit
-Mounts: are still needed. Hasports are going for $375 shipped for a set of billet mounts. You can run polyurethane inserts in OEM mounts, but even Skunked has suggested the use of aftermarket mounts and polyurethane inserts "at the very least".
-Flywheel: still needs to be purchased which comes out to $200-$250. If you wanted to run the Clutchmasters aftermarket one piece flywheel which many argue is more reliable, thats going to set you back $325.
-QSD Mounts: splatter welded drivers side adapter mount and rear intermediate shaft adapter plate.
-Must bang in the frame rail or remove the lower timing belt cover. Definately not ideal for a daily driver.
Total: QSD $799 + shipping, Mounts $375, Flywheel $200-325 = $1375-1500
Evolution Industries Kit
-Billet Aluminum mounts similar to Hasports which are specifically designed to be used with the H2B kit
-One piece flywheel with timing marks and million mile warranty.
-Custome CNC machined drivers side mount and rear intermediate shaft adapter, CAD designed, stainless steel, TIG welded, Black Oxide Finish.
-The ability to keep the upper and lower timing belt covers intact without bashing of the frame rail. This is a huge advantage for any vehicle that is going to be daily driven and even piece of mind for a dedicated race car.
Total: $1,299 shipped
you guys need a new claculator if you think it's cheaper than QSD.
$799 vs $1299
Even if you want to run aftermarket mounts (not needed) it's still cheaper.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am in no way bad mouthing the QSD kit, but I feel like there's alot of misinformation flying around about the two kits. Obviously the Evo Ind is $1299 shipped while the QSD kit is $799 + shipping. But if you look into the specifics of each kit you'll understand that after buying mounts and a flywheel for the QSD kit, it actually comes out to be more expensive than the Evo Ind Kit.
QSD Kit
-Mounts: are still needed. Hasports are going for $375 shipped for a set of billet mounts. You can run polyurethane inserts in OEM mounts, but even Skunked has suggested the use of aftermarket mounts and polyurethane inserts "at the very least".
-Flywheel: still needs to be purchased which comes out to $200-$250. If you wanted to run the Clutchmasters aftermarket one piece flywheel which many argue is more reliable, thats going to set you back $325.
-QSD Mounts: splatter welded drivers side adapter mount and rear intermediate shaft adapter plate.
-Must bang in the frame rail or remove the lower timing belt cover. Definately not ideal for a daily driver.
Total: QSD $799 + shipping, Mounts $375, Flywheel $200-325 = $1375-1500
Evolution Industries Kit
-Billet Aluminum mounts similar to Hasports which are specifically designed to be used with the H2B kit
-One piece flywheel with timing marks and million mile warranty.
-Custome CNC machined drivers side mount and rear intermediate shaft adapter, CAD designed, stainless steel, TIG welded, Black Oxide Finish.
-The ability to keep the upper and lower timing belt covers intact without bashing of the frame rail. This is a huge advantage for any vehicle that is going to be daily driven and even piece of mind for a dedicated race car.
Total: $1,299 shipped
11-28-2006, 06:15 PM
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Re: (Peter Shen)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Peter Shen »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would really like to see pics of the kit installed and running </TD></TR></TABLE>
Should have the car running early next week. Just waiting on a new alternator bracket.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Should have the car running early next week. Just waiting on a new alternator bracket.
11-28-2006, 06:48 PM
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Re: (Alchemist)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Alchemist »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Should have the car running early next week. Just waiting on a new alternator bracket. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Should have the car running early next week. Just waiting on a new alternator bracket.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
11-29-2006, 11:47 PM
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Re: (civicgsrswap)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicgsrswap »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is there a kit for an ef crx???</TD></TR></TABLE>
No EF kit yet but theyre working on it!
Here's some close up pics of the flywheel for those of you who've asked.
No EF kit yet but theyre working on it!
Here's some close up pics of the flywheel for those of you who've asked.