Z10 block girdle. need the facts.
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Z10 block girdle. need the facts.
I just read every archived thread containing Z10 and girdle. and the majority of what i have read is "i think" "it might" and "just do it" ...
what I would like to know is if this is really necessary in a LS block, how the Z10 girdle works exactly? (what forces is it supposed to counteract) and also if the dowel pins are needed? I understand Z10 sells a kit with and without dowels, im completely lost as to why they would sell two kinds if one were "inferior" to the other???
so please no ifs, maybes and mights.. im not trying to be a dick, and im not superior to anyone who would like to add these comments, as i am also not "in the know" .. I am having my block taken apart and contemplating putting in the z10 girdle, I don't want to say that not using it would help to save money because if the girdle really does work and would benefit my setup in any way than it doesn't matter.. i'll buy the pan / windage tray and main bolts and complete the setup.
so someone please help
what I would like to know is if this is really necessary in a LS block, how the Z10 girdle works exactly? (what forces is it supposed to counteract) and also if the dowel pins are needed? I understand Z10 sells a kit with and without dowels, im completely lost as to why they would sell two kinds if one were "inferior" to the other???
so please no ifs, maybes and mights.. im not trying to be a dick, and im not superior to anyone who would like to add these comments, as i am also not "in the know" .. I am having my block taken apart and contemplating putting in the z10 girdle, I don't want to say that not using it would help to save money because if the girdle really does work and would benefit my setup in any way than it doesn't matter.. i'll buy the pan / windage tray and main bolts and complete the setup.
so someone please help
#2
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Re: Z10 block girdle. need the facts. (JL)
I put a gsr girdle on my LS.It really depends on how much power and Rpm's you are using couldnt hurt it is cheap insurance.If your Ls is making more power or using vtec Rpm's like a gsr or type r than put one on.Honda didnt put it on for no reason.The gsr is a stronger block from what I have read.The ls block is a little weaker.The reason for the block girdle is to keep the block rigid.Keeps the mains and block from twisting.Can you imagine the mains twisting oh so slighty and the crank just churing 8,000rpms.Can you say spun bearing.Stock block girdles sometimes crack so that is why people make and sell aftermarket block girdles.Im just using a stock debured gsr block girdle because I havent had a problems with it.
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Re: Z10 block girdle. need the facts. (JL)
If you're balancing everything, then you can do without. I rev to just over 8000 rpms on a balanced LS crank, and have been doing so for over 3 years now with no problems. If you want the piece of mind..then go for it, but know that it is not necessary.
#6
Re: Z10 block girdle. need the facts. (JL)
I have an ENDYN block girdle in mint condition for sale. Its made of 7075 aircraft aluminum NOT 6061. No dowels needed. I agree with PureTeg420, if you have your whole assembly fully balanced than it is not absolutely necessary for the block girdle. But with all of the money you invest in your motor, why not add a block girdle to give you peace of mind when you rev to 8000+. The girdle comes with GSR main bolts and GSR windage tray. You just need a GSR oil pickup or modify your old one. All was purchased brand new, used for less than 1k miles. $250 shipped. I can take pics but visit http://www.theoldone.com for more information. I can also setup an ebay auction if you'd like.
#7
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Re: Z10 block girdle. need the facts. (DD93eg)
Having the bottom end balanced is a must.Anyone who assembles a motor with aftermarket parts and doesnt balance everything is an idiot. The forces of the crank spinning in the block push up on the mains.Alot of this stuff was learned on muscle cars along time ago.Think of a straight flexible rod and push up in the middle it will bow into a C shape.This is exaggerated but the forces of the crank push up into the block and it does distort the block.Muscle cars with extreme power used to crack main journals from the intense force.Running the Block girdle will just keep the mains and block from distorting as much.Bearing clearances come into play in this too.Some people will be ok and others wont.The tighter the bearing clearance the less main bearing distortion you can take.
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Re: Z10 block girdle. need the facts. (Cloner)
ok, so checking to make sure the bottom is balanced.
and the overall answer is a "yes" on using a girdle due to block rigidity?
i noticed the dart blocks don't have any girdle in the bottom end. (actually someone showed me ) and was wondering why they would leave it out if it is important? see earls post on building a dart block. the underside pic of the main caps..
anyways.. bump
*edit* link for the laziness https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1262775
and the overall answer is a "yes" on using a girdle due to block rigidity?
i noticed the dart blocks don't have any girdle in the bottom end. (actually someone showed me ) and was wondering why they would leave it out if it is important? see earls post on building a dart block. the underside pic of the main caps..
anyways.. bump
*edit* link for the laziness https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1262775
#9
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Re: Z10 block girdle. need the facts. (JL)
The dart blocks are so strong they dont need anything.For $2500 you better be getting a block that doesnt require extra parts.As for the block girdle its neither yes or no.Not every block is the same. Some have flaws others dont.Just to be on the safe side and make the main bearing last 100k put one on.Honda isnt stupid.Some people will say you dont need it but I see too many people who hardly put miles on theyre cars and say Ive been doing it for 5 years.Id like a person to say that after 100k.
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