cookiemonster98

iTrader: (1)

I am preparing to do a minime swap with future plans of turboing. I have a few questions to ensure I plan this correctly to save $ and time. Let me start with what I have and what I want.

I currently have a d16y7 with 154k miles in my ej6 hatch dx model.
Current upgrades include 2.25 MagnaFlow catback, ap1 s2k steeringwheel, 93 prelude front seats.
clutch and tranny are new with less than 5-8k miles on them.

I purchased a y8 head, not sure the miles on it. Looking for machine shop in San Jose that is recommended for getting it checked out

My end goal will be:
250 hp dd with the option to tune up around 350 if I decide to without replacing much of anything.
block-
Ycp vitara pistons with hastings rings- 75/75.5 still trying to figure out the correct size. 105$
P2p0 rods custom length for vitaras. 269$
Head-
delta 272-2 re grind of stook cam 165$ + shipping
bc springs 75$
Stock retainers ($48 if I replace them)
stock valves (still trying to figure out if these need to be upgraded)
aem adjustable cam gear 95$

Turbo-
still researching about turbos, doing minime first. I believe a t3 turbo off a Saab should fit my goals so likely I'll just check pick n pull but the rest I'm still working out what fits my goals.

Engine mngmnt-
P28 ecu chipped 120$-140$
Obd2a to obd1 harnwas 20$ to 50$(should I stay away from eBay and buy a used one from here? )
minime vtec harness from hondapartshero 60$ (I'm not comfortable doing wiring yet as this is my first project, would rather buy this)
Tuneing. $$$ any recommendations for shops in San Jose area? I only know about blacktrax.

Intake-
Y8 manifold with y8 throttle body
aem cold air/ short ram
I will also need a high flow cat once I get a turbo header.




So because I will be doing this in two steps:
when I do the minime should I wait on installing the rods/pistons untill I install the turbo? It wold lower compression so I assume they wold be a downgrade unless turboing.

When I replace the rods, should I also be doing the bearings? I have read I can install new rods without removing the engine, I assume bearings would require pulling the engine. If it is highly recommended I will just have to rent an engine hoist.

How important wold upgrading the valves be if I'm installing a new cam? I am not sure about the milage and oem ones are almost as much as after market. I know springs are important, I decided not to go with ti retainers because I read they don't last as long and the weight decrease isn't very significant in a d series. Am I interpreting things wrong?

Other Random question I just thought of, when I have the head off what type of things should I replace on the block, I recently did the timing belt and water pump, but I need to figure out what seals ext need to be replaced.


I appreciate any help so I can make suse I don't mess things up.

Kid-jdm-teggy

What clutch do you have because it might begin to sleep when youre going up to 350whp, i also highly recommend porting and shimming your oil pump especially on the d16y motors, look up how to shim and port oil pump on youtube and theres a guy showing you how to do it, very easy. As far as piston size, Its easier just buying the 75.5mm pistons and bring it to them when you taken the block apart and have them bore it to a 75.5mm bore and have them check the piston to wall clearance for you, tell him you want the clearance at .002-.0025". As far as bearings, you have to take it apart and look at your old bearings and there should be a color on the side of them showing you what bearing size. But if you dont know i would just go with standard size acl or oem bearings. You can use the stock valves, have them reseatted at the machine and that shouldnt cost much, less than 100$. I would hold out putting the turbo kit on when the new pistons and rods are in because you have to break it in first, then put the turbo kit on and take it for a tune.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Since when is a delta regrind that expensive? They are usually 99 direct from delta. Whoever is quoting you that price is ripping you off, contact delta directly. Also there are muchbetter cam options outthere for a turbo motor. The delta regrinds are all NA profiles the last time I checked.

And you won't make much over 260 or so with t3/t04e small Saab t3. You needthe larger 60 trim t3 off of an SVO mustang with the .63a/r turbine housing that came off of the late model manual cars. The earlier SVOs used a small horribly inefficient IHI turbo.

Also you'll need to rebuild any turbo you get out of a junkyard. I've yet to see a turbo at my local pull apartand other places that wasn't totally fucked, that's typically why the older turbo cars end up there. If there are any good turbos either the employees pull them off when they show up or someone snags it the first day they are on the lot

BlackTrax does excellent work. I have experience with the work they do on FormulaD cars. No reason not to go there