HXMan

What in the world would cause my tach to bounce around like crazy while just cruzing along, and then work fine when I hit the gas hard, or get off it completly??

It seems as if my tach is somehow getting some interference from my O2 sensor wires. Strange thing is, my car never did this before, and now just a couple days ago it has started doing this.

Also, does anyone remember the Hondata Studder? I didn't have that problem for like 700 miles, then all of a sudden when my tach started messing up, I started getting the studder too. When it gets into boost it was still missing. At the same time I was getting either no response from my O2 sensor on my autometer display, or I would have like half the lights on at one time. I reset the ECU, and I was getting some studder after that, and then it went away, came back, and then went away AGAIN!?

This computer **** is really getting on my nerves. I LOVE the turbo, but I don't know if I want to put up with all this bull to be fast.

Tomakit

Ignitor could be the culprit. Do a search on em. Your symptoms sound a lot like what I've experienced, and read about before.

Tom

rjardy

Tach problem = Alternator! my old accord did it and i replace the alternator (dealer told me) and it went away. It would be fine and i would be cruiseing alloing and i would look down and the thing would be dancing all over the place.


HTH

Rob

echo999

Ok.. That happened to me after I cleaned out my IAC valve.. one of the bolts had backed off of it.. and too much air was getting in at idle..

So at Idle, my revs would go to like 4-5k, then back down, then back up, then back down...

The_Head

Something similar happened to my car too, and it turned out to be a bad ground to the ECU...

Symptoms were: I'd be driving along normally, and the tach needle would swing wildly from like 1 to 7k in a totally random fashion, although the engine was still at cruising RPM's, then engine would start to cough and sputter and eventually die. It did this a few times until eventually it would die and get really hard to start, crank and crank and crank. and finally it died and stranded me, and I had to call the flat bed to come and get me...


[Modified by xThexHeadx, 3:01 AM 7/12/2002]

technine

I second the ignitor, happend to me and a million others with the same exact symptoms you've had. It could work again, but will start acting up again or die out of no where leaving you stranded. Replace as soon as possible.

I am suprised no one other than Tomakit thought it was ignitor.

HXMan

Hmm...all very good responses. I would also like to hear from someone that is running hondata if they had similar problems.....

IntegD

Sorry, I dont have hondata(yet..lol) but my gsr had the same problem. It would run just fine and then when I would get to a certain rpm it started to jump and my car would miss under hard acceleration. It turned out to be the ignitor the first time and the actual distributor housing the second time. It really sounds like a distributor problem, although I guess it could be related with hondata. Just try a friends distributor if you can and see if it works any better. If it does, then maybe just try changing ICM's or ignition coils to find the problem. Good luck dude..


[Modified by IntegD, 5:02 PM 7/11/2002]

DR. ON POINT

Your tach bounces around, you get a misfire, and you get a code 15. Ok, the reason this is happening is because you are not getting a GOOD connection on your igniter. Those connections have to be TIGHT! Also, dielectric grease will help a TON! This is how you fix the problem.

Remove your distributor cap. If you still have the dist shield in place under the cap, then you will have to remove the rotor, and the shield. If your shield is already gone, you do not need to remove the rotor. When looking down onto the distributor, you will see the coil, the rotor, and some wires leading to a small, brown thing. This is the igniter. There will be 4 connections. 1 on the side, and 3 on top. Honda uses spade connectors to make these connections to the igniter. Remove, and work on only ONE CONNECTOR AT A TIME. Take each connector, and with it removed from the igniter, place it in the needle-nose pliers and crimp down a little tighter on the spade connector. Then put a dab of dielectric grease inside the spade connector. Then put the connector back on the igniter. The connection should be very tight. Do this with all the connections to the igniter. Replace the rotor (if you removed it) and then the cap. Then, under the fuse panel under the hood, remove the ECU and Hazard fuses for about 60 seconds. Replace both, and restart the car WITHOUT touching the gas. Let it run for 60 seconds without ANY accessories on. Then after 60 seconds, turn ALL the accessories on and let it run for 60 seconds. Turn the car off, restart it, and go have fun.

I was having this very same problem with my 92 GSR. After trial and error I found this to be the problem. I fixed it the first time without dielectric grease. The problem came back a few days later. I then redid the procedure and used dielectric grease. It has now been one month, no problems. Also, I did pick up a power gain as well.

HXMan

What is dielectic grease? Guess I can just go to an autoparts store and ask...

speedworks

tach bouncing will almost be an ignitor problem

ion_four

yeah, any place will have it.

FAST94GSR

I'll bet my house that its a ground problem, probably at the ignitor like everyone else is sayin..i slide those connectors on and pinch them with my needlenose to make sure they are on good.

HXMan

Well, I took your advice On Point EK......that wasn't the problem.

Yesterday was the WORST yet. My car was running like absolute ****. I took it out three times, it missed while driving, tach bounced like crazy, and was leaning out and loosing power while cruzing normal. Then, I took it out again, the tach bounced a little, and I could actually boost good?!

I parked it for a while, and was going to my friends house later that night. Car running horribly again. As soon as I hit any boost it complety stuttered and lost power. I immeaditly let off the gas. WTF is my cars problem? I am going to swap in stock injectors and a stock honda computer to see what happens. I had a similar problem that only happend with my hondata before boost, it just wasn't this bad.

If it turns out the hondata is causing these problems, I may have to call it quits on this turbo ****. My car is crazy fast when it works, but what good is it if I can't drive it? My closest hondata tuner is 400 miles away, and I don't have the time , patience, or money to go there again.

HXMan

^^^

ceemarun

this thread is making me nervous! i got my hondata/turbo installed recently! keep us posted on what happens

HXMan

I don't think I will get too installing the honda ecu till tommorow..it is like 95 here with 85% humidity!

HXMan

Up for the evening croud. No boost today...bogged as soon as boost seen again.

Perhaps map sensor gone?

BigBCOD

wrong thread my bad.


[Modified by BigBCOD, 4:04 AM 7/22/2002]

DR. ON POINT

How about a shity 02 sensor........maybe u blew urs out and ur car is in limp mode


You have a CEL or not??

Maybe you should try something simple like reset your ECU.

hatchy

Does this happen if you run your stock ECU?

Hook a computer up to your Hondata and see if there are any faults. Call Doug (at Hondata).

HXMan

I get a CEL every once in a while. All I was getting when I tripped the wire was one short blink.

I have reset my ECU to no avail. This morning on the way to work my tach and my speedo bounced around some. After work, the tach bounced some, and then was fine the rest of the way home.

I need to order some injector grommets to run my stock ecu. I can't drive with the 450's with a GSR ecu. As soon as I get them I am going to see what happens.

HXMan

I checked the ICM per the Helms manual. All the wire tests came up good, so I think the ICM is bad. I don't think my misfiring and tach bouncing is from an improper fuel pressure, or map sensor cuz I only get the problems most of the time, but not all the time. I did get the injector grommets...so I may swap ecus out tommorow quick to make sure it isn't the ICM. Those things go for $150 at least!

IntegD

I know I already said it once..hope I dont sound redundant..but if you have another distributor, try it. My symptoms were pretty much the same and my housing went out. Good luck bro, I know that **** sux.

Tinker219

more boost=more problems