racinskittle

Alright, has this happened to anyone else?
I installed Mikeahowski's 450cc injectors and VAFC 2 nights ago and the CEL light wont go off. I figured it was because of the Missing Link still attached. Well Mike took it out and the light went off for a little while, then it came back on, and then off, and then on...finally it just stayed on the whole time.

I can't even get a CEL code because the ****** light WILL NOT turn off. Even when I flip the igntion on (but not start the car) usually the light goes on for a sec and then turns off. It just stays on. I unplugged the backup fuse and the ECU fuse.....nothing.

The car runs great and pulls good. I just dont understand what the **** is going on.

Anyone experience this.

OH would shitty soldering hurt it? I know it may increase the resistance a little and if the wires weren't connected too well, you could draw too many amps, but I dont think this would cause it. Could be wrong though

Blaze45

So your hitting full boost with the CEL on? Its not in limp mode when the CEL comes on? How can your ECU not be throwing a code when the CEL light comes on? I would check your wiring and see whats up. Sounds like the culprit, maybe not. Good Luck

Blaze

5thgencivic

Find out what code it's throwing.

racinskittle

When I jumper the service connector it doesn't give a code. The light stays on the whole time like normal. That's why i posted here

Basically the light wont go off. No matter what. Which doesn't seem right.

5thgencivic

That's odd..

InTeGrA B18b1

probably your wires double check it.

Mr.DC2TurBo

if your obd2, the cel lite will be on. It's not limp mode just too much air/fuel mixture.

notfastenough

Too much a/f ratio. Racingskittle- Just remove some of your a/f ratios

If the a/f ratio was the culprit, you would be throwing a code.

Solder the wires

scttydb411

mines on all the time. you can check the code by the jumper and read the cel. it's probably baro sensor which is because the map and baro see different values. it won't affect the driveability.

BringIT

This CEL situation happened to me yesterday during my dyno tuning session. I was getting my ecu custom chipped. Everything worked great with the emulator chip hooked up. Once we burned the chip and placed it into the ecu the car ran like **** and the CEL would stay on when u turned the key to the on position. It wouldn't turn off. In the end, we found it was a faulty chip. Burned a new chip and the car started and the CEL turned off when the key was on as usual.

This doesn't exactly help with your problem.. but it's likely a wiring issue or something.

racinskittle

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BringIT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This CEL situation happened to me yesterday during my dyno tuning session. I was getting my ecu custom chipped. Everything worked great with the emulator chip hooked up. Once we burned the chip and placed it into the ecu the car ran like **** and the CEL would stay on when u turned the key to the on position. It wouldn't turn off. In the end, we found it was a faulty chip. Burned a new chip and the car started and the CEL turned off when the key was on as usual.

This doesn't exactly help with your problem.. but it's likely a wiring issue or something. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ohh good to hear. Im going to try doing the soldering over again. It wasn't done too well and it wouldn't hurt to fix it. maybe it'll change something. The only thing is that drivability is teriffic and the car pulls hard. I need to check the plugs too, but the A/F gauge is giving us a rich reading which is good.

Otherwise it's prolly just the baro code like sctty said.

Im wondering if the missing link/hack combination did something. When it was taken off I believe it went away for a while and then came back. Oh well, as long as it's running rich and drives good I guess it wont hurt to leave it like everyone else does.

THANKS FOR ALL THE RESPONSES GUYS! I really appreciate it. Man, in 2 hrs I had like 10 replies that's awesome. Thanks again!




Modified by racinskittle at 11:44 PM 1/17/2004

turbolude92

did you have the afc tuned? If not then your a/f ratio is all jacked up and that would probably be the cause.

racinskittle

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbolude92 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you have the afc tuned? If not then your a/f ratio is all jacked up and that would probably be the cause.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

A/F isn't tuned. It is -35% across and it's set VERY rich. Ill change it tonight and see if that's the cause, otherwise I can rule it out.

notoriousB

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racinskittle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When I jumper the service connector it doesn't give a code. The light stays on the whole time like normal. That's why i posted here

Basically the light wont go off. No matter what. Which doesn't seem right.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you're not starting the car while trying to read the code are you? if you jump the connector and start the car the CEL stays on solid.

MaxSterling

solid CEL = bad ecu