Civicman86

I hooked up my PLX and im getting some funky *** readings from it. Showing "lean" in all the map over 3k and showing "LEAN" at idle. The car has been tuned for AF. Although it could use some minor adjustments it is in the ballpark of the right numbers. IM thinking either my ground is not good or my power. I currnetly have the power on the blue acc wire on the steering column. IM showing 14A from that location. So where do you all have yours wired too? Mainly the ground wire.

TIA

093turbo16

iTrader: (2)

At the ECU.

But I also take it right off the battery sometimes too.

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

Widebands tend to be picky about their power and ground source. Test it from the battery to make sure its good.

Tactic$

I hard-wired the power behind the dash, at the cigarette lighter.... Grounded on the "dash cage"

During the PLX's warm up stage (when it is supposed to read 14.7) i read -.02, right at 14.68

Pretty minimal if you ask me.

alpha

Power/Ground at the battery

See Are X

mine ran best at A25 and A26 at the ECU.

adseguy

With the amount of regulators and recitifier circuits in most electronic devices I would think power is not your problem but that you may have a bad exhaust leak. If at idle and just cruising you get "lean condition" with no stuttering I would say it's probably fresh air leaking into the exhaust pre-sensor. If at WOT everything is good then I would say that is most def. your problem. GL

nota-eg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adseguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With the amount of regulators and recitifier circuits in most electronic devices I would think power is not your problem but that you may have a bad exhaust leak. If at idle and just cruising you get "lean condition" with no stuttering I would say it's probably fresh air leaking into the exhaust pre-sensor. If at WOT everything is good then I would say that is most def. your problem. GL</TD></TR></TABLE>

^ The most likely problem.

You didn't cut any of the sensor wires did you? I made the mistake of cutting mine to get it back through the firewall. Apparently one of the wires wasn't connected, which caused mine to read "Rich". I reattached the one wire and soldered them all back together. It now reads correctly.

nowtype

I wired it to the SRS fuse this week. I'm going to see if the offset at high loads is less than wiring it to the ECU. When I wired it to the ECU, at WOT the wideband would often read 1AFR richer on the wideband display than what was displayed via dataloggin on the ECU. At idle it would be within .1afr. Its been said numerous times that wiring it to the battery helps a great deal. I used the SRS fuse because I like fuse taps, they make wiring easy. Also I don't think the SRS draws a lot of current at WOT, unlike the ECU. Wiring to the battery I would have to use my brain and figure out a way to make the WB only to turn on when the car was on and I'm not that bright.

nota-eg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nowtype &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wired it to the SRS fuse this week. I'm going to see if the offset at high loads is less than wiring it to the ECU. When I wired it to the ECU, at WOT the wideband would often read 1AFR richer on the wideband display than what was displayed via dataloggin on the ECU. At idle it would be within .1afr. Its been said numerous times that wiring it to the battery helps a great deal. I used the SRS fuse because I like fuse taps, they make wiring easy. Also I don't think the SRS draws a lot of current at WOT, unlike the ECU. Wiring to the battery I would have to use my brain and figure out a way to make the WB only to turn on when the car was on and I'm not that bright.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wire it to a swtich.

Civicman86

well i was thinking maybe a leak. The o2 sensor wont tighten down all the way, almost like it is stipped. Its not really loose but not really tight. IT was saying lean all the time and now its saying rich sometimes. I might try to use a buddy of mines o2 sensor and see if that changes the readings. IF that does not work i will look into the wiring.

Thanks for the help guys Greatly appreciated

ladysman

I know, I know, old thread.

I am getting funky readings as well....meaning the wideband display doesn't always read what the datalogging does.

I am going to try a different power and ground. PLX recommends right on the ECU for datalogging which is where mine is now. I think ground is on D21. POwer is well, I don't remember.

Any other suggestions?

ladysman

No bod d?

ladysman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by See Are X &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mine ran best at A25 and A26 at the ECU.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think I'll try it..

iBrandon

wire it straight to the battery...relay it with a ign on switch...if u use the cigarette lighter, dont do boost pulls or u will blow the fuses out...i blew 3 before i said expletive this! and wired it staight to the battery...besides you will get better readings and consistent readings with it...

ladysman

Yeah, I am going to try the A25 pin and 26 pin first then do that.

ladysman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ladysman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, I am going to try the A25 pin and 26 pin first then do that.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Didn't get a chance to do this yet as the heat index is 110 here.

Any other ideas, pass them on.

awdgsx96

Maybe it might just be the wideband. My buddy has one in his 95 GSX and while just cruising, the WB would display "Lean". Right after it said lean, it wouldn't go back to reading AFR but would display 00.00, or rich, or lean. He contacted PLX and they had him ship his old one back, he got a new one in like 5 days and he used the preexisting wires off of the old one and no problems. Maybe they had a batch of bad WB's?

wade

iTrader: (1)

i have seen them have ver very verrryyyyy picky grounds. I installed one in my car and grounded it in 5 places and the display was weak and not reading AF values. Took forever to get it right

prelittlelude

im not sure what ems your using, but in mine i was able to calibrate a gain setting. so as long as you get a solid power and ground from anywhere you can read the documentation on the Wideband and it should tell you how to make the voltage out put constant so you can calibrate the gain in the EMS so your reading the same input voltage that it is supposedly outputing..

no only that but did you calibrate the sensor before hooking it all up. with mine i had a to do a free air calc.. i guess what im getting at is read the docs.

ladysman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelittlelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im not sure what ems your using, but in mine i was able to calibrate a gain setting. so as long as you get a solid power and ground from anywhere you can read the documentation on the Wideband and it should tell you how to make the voltage out put constant so you can calibrate the gain in the EMS so your reading the same input voltage that it is supposedly outputing..

no only that but did you calibrate the sensor before hooking it all up. with mine i had a to do a free air calc.. i guess what im getting at is read the docs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have messed with the offset. and it helps when the car is @ 13.5 and above but anything below, especially in boost the gauge shows 11 and the ems shows 12. It is a full point off. I have messed around with it and it is either off during boost or in vacuum (low throttle). I can't win. I am thinking it is a wiring ground issue so I am going to try that first.

I have the PLX and there is no calibration.