JordanCivic

Im having problems with the S300 display only reading between 11.95-18.2, even though the AEM display reads 10-20.

S300, using plx setting with -0.39v offset. Hondata have been helping and they have come to the conclusion that the AEM is the cause.

Anyone else using an AEM with the S300?

Joseph Davis

I've had a couple AEM units read +/- .75 AFR off. I do not like them, I do not trust them.

JordanCivic

I have checked the voltages at the ELD input, with the wire from the WB connected the voltage wont drop below 1.4v. But without connecting to the ELD input, the output reads correctly right down to near 0v.

I have 4.8v at D10 when nothing is connected.

The AEM is functioning correctly, there is only an issue when the output is connected to ELD input on ecu.
The ELD wire is cut. ELD is disabled.

Everything else functioning correctly.



Modified by JordanCivic at 6:59 PM 8/10/2007

0mtber

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JordanCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im having problems with the S300 display only reading between 11.95-18.2, even though the AEM display reads 10-20.

S300, using plx setting with -0.39v offset. Hondata have been helping and they have come to the conclusion that the AEM is the cause.

Anyone else using an AEM with the S300?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have tuned 5+ vehicles on s300 with an aem uego without an issue.
On some vehicles, you will have to sync the voltage output on the aem to the voltage the ecu is reporting.

Make sure you use a ground at the battery per the instructions provided by aem & make sure you use a clean 12v source. On my personal car I used a relay to send power directly from the battery to power my uego. (overkill)

JordanCivic

The voltage works correctly until it is connected to d10.

Should there be 4.8v on d10 with nothing connected to it?

Joseph Davis

I was getting conflicting readings between the AEM pillar mounted unit and the stock wideband on a K-series and Aaron Lail at TruDynoSports was kind enough to provide both NTK and LM-1 tailpipe mounted units to test with. Over multiple pulls the stock, NTK, and LM-1 widebands read within a tenth of each other while the AEM read .75 AFR lean.

I've seen this on more than one car, and I have more than one wideband to verify it with. I have two TE 2A0s and a 2C0, PLX M250 and M300, Innovate LC-1, and a Horiba unit (broken, I'll fix it at some point). All my gear reads within .3 AFR of the others, but 2/3rds of the AEM units are substantially off in my experience - +/-.75 is a 1.5 AFR span, holmes, which is pretty fucked up.

Some of the problems are due to grounding errors on the part of the operator, I am sure, and people blindly think that a body ground is sufficient. Those are pretty easy to spot as they read close to true at idle and part throttle but the AFR readings skew at WOT when dynamic resistances in the ground path go up.

You might want to double check those AEM readings before you trust them.

JordanCivic

****, i knew i should have kept the PLX.

Thanks for the insight, ill be sure to get it checked.

quicksilver1689

hey whats your guy's expierience with NTK widebands? NGK also has a wideband, any input on them would be great. Im in the market for one.

Joseph Davis

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quicksilver1689 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey whats your guy's expierience with NTK widebands?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The NTK wideband with the Bosch sensor?

Aaron liked it, it read the same as his LM-1 but didn't shut off for 10-30 seconds when exposed to an overly rich condition. I understand Innovate's (ivory tower) policy on wanting the unit to be recalibrated after exposure to such but it can be a pain in the *** to try to rough in a car with most of the powerband blanking out. It also supports the NTK wideband sensor, which from what I'm told is well worth the $$$ they command as they last a whole lot longer and don't die after sustained exposure to racegas.

tony1

I'm with that guy /\

Joseph Davis

Holy ****.

DCxMagus

I have my UEGO connected to my S300 and it's been nothing but a nightmare for me, some days it will match up with the readings on the computer fine, other days I have to play with the voltage offest for like 15mins to get it to work, I'm going to be changing it out for a PLX or an LM-1 shortly because it's getting annonying as hell lucky all this happened after I dyno tuned it so I don't have to be tuning it I'm just checking to make sure everything is still in line.

I did recently discover that it was in fact grounded to something in the steering column(I had it installed with my clutch and flywheel and thats was a huge mistake because I've had to rewire 3 of the 4 wires anyway)

I just today ran a wire from the AEM ground directly to the battery so maybe that will fix the problem. But i'm still going to pick up a different wideband because my WOT readings on the gauge are always changing but it's only a small amount like +/- .3 but still thats not right so I'm gonna ditch it besides the S300 seems to be very picky with this units Hondata prefers LM-1 or PLX, I just had the AEM left over from my turbo saturn so I put it on.

oh yeah and my unit sometimes makes this buzzing noise so I think one of the wires in the harness is fucked up and I just noticed burn marks on the plug that plugs into the gauge coming from the ground wire terminal, I wouldn't recommend this gauge to be used at all personally especially not if you are using a hondata S300 system.

Tjabo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was getting conflicting readings between the AEM pillar mounted unit and the stock wideband on a K-series and Aaron Lail at TruDynoSports was kind enough to provide both NTK and LM-1 tailpipe mounted units to test with. Over multiple pulls the stock, NTK, and LM-1 widebands read within a tenth of each other while the AEM read .75 AFR lean.

I've seen this on more than one car, and I have more than one wideband to verify it with. I have two TE 2A0s and a 2C0, PLX M250 and M300, Innovate LC-1, and a Horiba unit (broken, I'll fix it at some point). All my gear reads within .3 AFR of the others, but 2/3rds of the AEM units are substantially off in my experience - +/-.75 is a 1.5 AFR span, holmes, which is pretty fucked up.

Some of the problems are due to grounding errors on the part of the operator, I am sure, and people blindly think that a body ground is sufficient. Those are pretty easy to spot as they read close to true at idle and part throttle but the AFR readings skew at WOT when dynamic resistances in the ground path go up.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for some awesome information!

Of course, now I have a question.

I'm running an AEM UEGO on a Neon with Megasquirt 1 (MS) with the "Extra" functions, and my MS reads different from my AEM gauge. Usually it (the UEGO) seems to be reading .5-.6 rich.

I kind of figured I might need to re-do my ground for my UEGO, because when I installed it pre-MS, I just used some handy wires that were in the dash.

Unfortunately, when I was installing the MS I couldn't seem to find any good information on proper grounding, so I grounded the MS grounds to the side of the head. . . (while wondering if that was correct or if the battery was better)

So, I was thinking of tapping the AEM UEGO 12v and ground wires into the MS ones so they're all on common sources (just because I read about this on the Innovate site a long time ago), but I wonder if I need to swap all of the grounds over to the battery, or if the head is alright as a grounding point.

FWIW, all of the MS functions seem good on this ground other than that the TPS signal is a little dirty, but useable.

I'm thinking that all of this grounding/common ground stuff is relevant to the original question, so hopefully it's not just a huge "off-track!"

Thanks for any help!

Thad

Turbo-charged

the aem wideband in my car worked great for a season and a half. every time we put it on the dyno we would verify the readings with another wideband. that sensor eventually died...i put in a new sensor and it died 3 pulls on the dyno later. now i just use my fjo with ntk sensor that i use for tuning in my car as well. i have it where its pretty easily removable.

BodyKits NW

I also have had problems with mine, I've had to adjust my gain to get my AEM software to match. I've never had this many problems with a wideband before. I'm going to send mine in for my friend to take a look at it. I've ran their non gauge type with no issues.

Sr420Det

Thadius. lol

Tjabo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sr420Det &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thadius. lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
Huh?

bigbadboy

i'm also having problems getting it to match up with my S300. i did however put it on the dyno to check the readings against another wideband and it was dead on.

JordanCivic

Right guys, ive sorted this problem.

I was getting 5v on the ELD ( d10 ) with nothing connected. Resistors r136 and r138 needed to be cut inside the ECU, they were pulling the voltage up to 5v. This was throwing off the s300 readings.

The AEM and the S300 now read exactly the same, using the plx settings with a -0.19v offset.

The question is - How accurate is the AEM itself, i thought i was buying a quality product, but i think im going to order a PLX.

0mtber

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JordanCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Right guys, ive sorted this problem.

I was getting 5v on the ELD ( d10 ) with nothing connected. Resistors r136 and r138 needed to be cut inside the ECU, they were pulling the voltage up to 5v. This was throwing off the s300 readings.

The AEM and the S300 now read exactly the same, using the plx settings with a -0.19v offset.

The question is - How accurate is the AEM itself, i thought i was buying a quality product, but i think im going to order a PLX.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have compared the uego to plx m300 units & to the innovate widebands in the past on customers cars just for curiosity sake & I saw no difference.

As mentioned before 90% of the people seeing mixed results had improper grounds/voltage draws etc.

I like plx, innovate & aem units. I have had a uego installed in my personal car for several years now without any issues. The only time I had an issue was when I first installed the uego & did not grab a clean 12v power supply.

That is not to say that other people may have had issues with the uego. But then again, I have had 2 cars with innovate widebands give me issues & 1 plx m300.

JordanCivic

Thanks mate, ill get it checked when i get her on a dyno to fine tune. I will still get a PLX as well, to use as a removable tuning tool. The AEM is permanantly installed in my car.
If i ever suspect something is wrong i will be able to verify. I have used the PLX before and had no issue, i just prefered the AEM display for myself.

Thanks for all your input guys.