shortstopNE

Looking around online, just seeing if anybody has good sites for prices to build my turbo gsr. I wanna do a complete build because right now i'm only running 9psi on stock motor and My goal is over 500whp on 93 octane but reliable enough to drive the streets.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

You could send it to Golden Eagle and have them sleeve and build from the ground up instead of sending it to 2-3 different places.

NJIN BUILDR

Please don't let price be the deciding factor.It's always more expensive to build it twice,no matter how cheap it was the first time.There are many good builders and you will find they are all competitively priced.And don't expect over 500 hp reliably with 93 octane using a Honda engine.Low to mid 400's with pump gas are more realistic.

shortstopNE

Golden Eagle Does a complete build? Price is not a problem, understand you get what you pay for. My goal for ball park was 500 but would be content with 400's

0Golden Eagle

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shortstopNE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Golden Eagle Does a complete build? Price is not a problem, understand you get what you pay for. My goal for ball park was 500 but would be content with 400's</TD></TR></TABLE> yes we do builds give me a call 909-592-4311 ext 102 i can work up a quote for you

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

For that I would definately look at using 9.0:1 -9.5:1 compression pistons with their sleeves. Keep it as a good number that is easy to replace headgaskets if needed. 81mm, 81.5mm or 84mm. I do recommend that to get the full effect of a good 2 litre w/ 84mm, get the matching LS/B20 crank to go with it. You'll get quick combustion w/ the 81mm, because there is less surface area, but with the added stroke WITH the bore, you'll looking at a great torque-monster. Doing 84mm on the stock GS-R crank really isn't worth it from my experience.

Also get the options of cooper o-ring, and a hone w/ the sleeves. That really helps the head gasket seal a lot better to the head. If you have specific pistons you want to use, send the pistons down WITH the block (if you are sending one) or send them the pistons you want used to them in case they have a block ready for you. Use ARP headstuds, mainstuds, and rodbolts. definately worth it. i'm not sure if they require a core engine block., but you may save a few bucks if you send them one

GT35R_EF

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shortstopNE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Golden Eagle Does a complete build? Price is not a problem, understand you get what you pay for. My goal for ball park was 500 but would be content with 400's</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, and they do a killer job. Mine came out beautiful. I had mine sleeved and assembled all in one trip.

ExospeedAMcrx

When choosing an engine builder, do your research on how they do build their engines. Not every place does them the same.

The precision tools used, the type of parts they use, etc can determine why there are difference in prices from one place to another. Pricing WILL be different from each place because of the expertise and attention certain builders give to each engine.

Check if they like to use ACL bearings or OEM Honda bearings. That can affect pricing since Honda bearings are abit more. And know the difference between both in why there's a difference.

My main point is. Don't let PRICE be the determining factor on where you get your engine built. Consider the differences from each company and weigh what is important to you and what you can do without.

Boner_Ben

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheShodan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Doing 84mm on the stock GS-R crank really isn't worth it from my experience</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boner_Ben &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Why? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Because you don't get the additional torque that you think you do with just a large bore. I've had plenty of 84mm GS-R blocks (with the same internals and turbos) not get the torque that they were looking for. (only 20ft/lbs b/w the 81mm and 84mm, with Stroke staying at 87.2) When we perform the same test with the bore AND additional stroke, on average we saw an over 80-90 ft/lbs of torque gain, on the same turbo, and same amount of boost used.

tony1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheShodan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Because you don't get the additional torque that you think you do with just a large bore. I've had plenty of 84mm GS-R blocks (with the same internals and turbos) not get the torque that they were looking for. (only 20ft/lbs b/w the 81mm and 84mm, with Stroke staying at 87.2) When we perform the same test with the bore AND additional stroke, on average we saw an over 80-90 ft/lbs of torque gain, on the same turbo, and same amount of boost used.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have not seen such different results between the 2 cranks. My race car still uses an 87mm crank. Either way...

The important thing here is that you don't choose your engine builder based on price, you're almost guaranteed a bad experience.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I wasn't talking about the cranks. mainly the differences in changes of the bore sizes alone, vs bore size increase AND crank.

ExospeedAMcrx

When you have thousands of dollars in just precision measuring tools and other tools to assemble an engine, you dont charge pocket change to build an engine. You price your experience and ability accordingly.

alpha

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The important thing here is that you don't choose your engine builder based on price, you're almost guaranteed a bad experience. </TD></TR></TABLE>