GEN2 LS

iTrader: (3)

Been reading up on walk throughs and everyone is claiming it's a PITA. My turbo has been running well over 7 years now so I'm sure it won't come off without a fight, just looking for tips and tricks to SAFELY remove a exhaust housing without damaging the turbine wheel etc. If it matters it's a GT3076R. Just converting to a vband setup.

TravisBiggie

Rubber mallet, or a 2x4 and a hammer will help. don't hit the housing with a metal hammer directly for obvious reasons.

if no prevail, heat up where the turbine and CHRA meet with a torch, then try again. If I can rip off old holset turbines, you can rip off a 7 yr old housing.

hold the turbo in a certain way so if it breaks free, it won't have much room to travel to damage the turbine wheel.

Fishy_hondaman

Id put the turbo in the bench clamp/vise grip with some cushion and then get a impact or a wrench with rubber hammer.

TravisBiggie

I would not do that, since you arent supporting the turbo at all. I would lay the turbo on the floor and use a 2x4 and put it against the turbo and hit the wood, this will make sure it doesn't fly off if its on a vise.

LightningTeg

Cant say this has ever been a problem for me.

B and B

iTrader: (3)

7 yrs with no problems is awesome. Your drain,etc., must be primo.

GEN2 LS

iTrader: (3)

I will find out Wednesday or Thursday and post results lol

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I use bench bolted Vice-Grips all day long. I could never use the floor for anything for removal. Come to think of it, I really haven't used anything else..... ever.

I support the turbo vertically by the turbine housing itself

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

A dead blow hanmer, penetrating oil, and heat are going to be your best friends.

Once you get it off you need to wire wheel the cheating and housing where they meet, clean both, then apply some anti seize to prevent it from happening again

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Master Jedi wisdom right there.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Well, you know....

GEN2 LS

iTrader: (3)

Had no luck even with lots of PB blaster😣

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

PB blaster typically doesn't work for me either. You need a serious lubricant to free the corrosion. The problem is moisture seems to gravitate to that mating surface and heat accelerates the corrosion. Take into account that the CHRA and housing expand at different rates at it work hardens them together.

You're gonna need like a 5lb dead blow and a good vice with soft jaws. Clamp the CHRA in the vice turbine housing down and just start evenly beating the **** out of it around its circumference.

Another trick is to apply heat to the turbine housing only. This will cause it to expand more than the chra, soak the mating joint in some lubricant while hot and wait like an hour then continue with the hammer assault.

Just make sure the housing comes off evenly and you won't damage anything.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Excellent tutorial.. Which is why I keep my MAP torch refills handy :-)..

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I have a giant oxyacetylene rig now, nothing stands in my way lol.

I once had a turbine housing so seized on a gt2860 that I had to use a 3 jaw bearing puller to remove it.

If all else fails get some longer bolts for the turbine housing, use something as a spacer between the end of the bolt and the compressor backplate, and just start evenly backing the bolts out. This method will literally push the housing off

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I have about 3 pieces of good steel pipe that fit to BW, Garrett and Mitsu CHRA lengths. I remember us talking about that trick a couple of years ago. Works well for the smaller GT28s and 16Gs.

Now, depending upon the size and company of turbocharger, if the backplate and CHRA are integrated, like in a GT series, I'll just remove the main snap ring and remove the backplate to get better access to the turbine housing bolts.

I LOVE my LANG Snap Ring set. I have small width hands like "The Donald", so I like locking snap rings to get a better grip.

I used to use a bunch of these , but they kept popping the ends!





NOW, This is the Main set I use






This is the One I use for the Diesel Turbos

Geis

Yeah PB blaster wasn't all that it had been touted to be when I tried using it on my suspension install. Apparently the absolute pinnacle of penetrating oils is actually something that you just DIY; 50/50 mixture of ATF and acetone.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Hmm. I'll note that.. Never thought of that combination.. Sounds perfect