pacman_dc2

Hey everyone just wondering, im running a 75 wet shot, and im just wondering if im using the correct plugs. NGKBKR7E,

im running a 00 gsr w/
cold air intake
type r header
catless apexi n1 catback
i set the ignition timing to stock and im sprayin the 75 wet

any suggestions on how to improve, if i need to use diff. plugs or retard timing would be really appreciated.. thanks... Pacman

pacman_dc2

10 views and noone... thanks .. BUMP

DC4KiD

iTrader: (4)

NGK BKR7E are the correct plugs

pacman_dc2

thanks bro.. does anyone know if i should retard timing on it like -2 degrees, its bone stock internals with i/h/e and of course the 75shot since its my dd i kinda want something safe for it.. but still want to keep the 75 shot

AWDstylez

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pacman_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks bro.. does anyone know if i should retard timing on it like -2 degrees, its bone stock internals with i/h/e and of course the 75shot since its my dd i kinda want something safe for it.. but still want to keep the 75 shot </TD></TR></TABLE>

Definately doesn't hurt to be on the safe side.

jdminfluence

you should retard the timing 1 degrees for every 100 shot.

pacman_dc2

oh so i dont have to retard it on my setup, will it be safe at stock timing??

agrn93ls

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pacman_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh so i dont have to retard it on my setup, will it be safe at stock timing??</TD></TR></TABLE>

DEFINATELY turn down the timing... And I hope you are not running a 75 dry on stock timing, you are very lucky so far if you are.

The N20 rule of thumb for general timing retarding is 2 degress for every 50hp shot..

And a gsr is high compression already so your pushing it on stock timing

I went 4 degrees on a 65whp-ish... dont know the flywheel hp and I made up my own jetting for the A/F and power I wanted, wet shot and ran the NGK 7's. Pulled real hard and ran 12.0:1 A/F

Put down 220hp and 200tq on a 65 whp shot.

pacman_dc2

oh ok man....so i should retard maybe at the most 2 degrees... several people have told me to leave it stock.. it is a 75 shot wet.. does anyone know wut gap to use as well on 7's

Tippyman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdminfluence &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should retard the timing 1 degrees for every 100 shot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Maybe on a mustang...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pacman_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh ok man....so i should retard maybe at the most 2 degrees... several people have told me to leave it stock.. it is a 75 shot wet.. does anyone know wut gap to use as well on 7's</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had my engine retarded 3.5 degrees when I was running a 75 wet shot.

crowder13

28 to 32

pacman_dc2

ok i have a problem, i have an unorthodox racing underdrive pulley.. i tried gettin the timing on it, but i cant seem to find the marks on it.. can someone help with this and if so how much should i move the dizzy to retard

agrn93ls

If the timing is stock roll the distributor toward the front of the car about 1/8th inch. That should be roughly 2-4 degrees probably closer to the 2 degree area.

What you need to do is locate the two marks on your pulley, look at the pulley from the fender, now the pulley rotates counter clockwise.. so considering that the forward mark will be the timing mark and the rearward mark will be the TDC..


OR in other words find the marks turn them to the top of the pulley and the mark closer to the radiator is the 16-18 degree mark and the one on the firewall side will be the TDC...

I would put paint on the timing mark so that you can see it and then you can go from there. What always gets me is honda put that mark as 16-18 degrees on thier pulley so i dont know how they figure that one mark can vary two degrees so i just roll it back until it is obviously off the mark roughly about 1/8th to 1/4 inch just to be safe. the only real way is to get a timing light with a advance adjustment and roll it 2 degrees and see how far that is and use that as reference when retarding.

nitrousballa

YOU SHOULD ALWAYS LOOK AT ALL THE PLUGS....that tells the real story.
you do not need to pull timing if you have raised your fuel pressure at least 5 psi "if that".but do need to make sure you maintain 40 psi cfp"constant fuel pressure" when the nitrous is activated.


there is a nitrous thread on here with a lot of usefull info and if you need anymore help just pm me,i'll be glad to help you out.

pacman_dc2

well my fuel setup is stock, i dont have anything, it used to have a walbro 255 but i ditched that cuz it would waste alot of gas.. kinda regret it now... but ive asked around and i believe im going to pull out the 2 degrees and see wut it does... like the guy above said im going to move dizzy 1/8 in retard... i dont have a timing gun but hopefully i can get someone to look at it for me and see wut its at.. but if i do retard it 1/8 back do you guys think it will be enough with that.. i mean im not gonna spray all the time.. im only going to use it at the track once in a while and if i get a really good street race, not really into that but if it happens it happens.... oh yea can people post pics of there setup with a purge kit... i want to see how some different people have it

nitrousballa

how in the world can a fuel pump use more gas...lmao"keep your foot
out of it.you are guessing at timing,so i will let you see the out come of that shortly.retarding timing causes heat build up and that is something you do not want with nitrous.it doesn't take a minute to take EACH PLUG out and look at it.you want each plug to read like an all motor car.

you will have trouble making cylinders 2-3 reading that unless yyou are doinfg a direct port.but good luck on the spray.

pacman_dc2

so ur suggesting i dont retard it, i keep it stock? i am using those ngk bkr7e's so it is a colder plug and my plugs are light brown when i take em out, checked last night, cylinder #4 looked like it wanted to go to white, but hasnt yet?? i tried pm'in you but it didnt work cuz im a newb and still in trial lol but let me know wut u think mang

nitrousballa

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pacman_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so ur suggesting i dont retard it, i keep it stock? i am using those ngk bkr7e's so it is a colder plug.</TD></TR></TABLE>

EXACTLY THAT IS WHAT THE FUEL IS FOR...the fuel is what makes the power and keeps temps down in the combustion chamber.you want the plugs to read like a all motor car while you are on the spray.


the reason most people grenade there motors on spray is RUNNING LEAN SO THAT SHOULD TELL YOU SOMETHING.

as far as the noob thing,you will just have to wait till you are given that permission shouldn't be long tho.

pacman_dc2

aight man well thanks for the advice so far... but wut would you do if it were your setup... leave timing stock on those plugs and keep the 75 wet

nitrousballa

i just told you ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

pacman_dc2

ok man thanx ill keep it that way and see wutz up, i appreciate it man

agrn93ls

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nitrousballa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how in the world can a fuel pump use more gas...lmao"keep your foot
out of it.you are guessing at timing,so i will let you see the out come of that shortly.retarding timing causes heat build up and that is something you do not want with nitrous.it doesn't take a minute to take EACH PLUG out and look at it.you want each plug to read like an all motor car.

you will have trouble making cylinders 2-3 reading that unless yyou are doinfg a direct port.but good luck on the spray. </TD></TR></TABLE>

So you are saying there is no use in retarding timing, just add fuel?

Well you do that i'll stick with retarding timing a little.

And your not going to build up heat enough to damage the engine backing it off 2 degrees, Also the more fuel you burn the hotter the cylinder temps too, all N20 does is allow you to burn more fuel

nitrousballa

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by agrn93ls &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So you are saying there is no use in retarding timing, just add fuel?

Well you do that i'll stick with retarding timing a little.

And your not going to build up heat enough to damage the engine backing it off 2 degrees, Also the more fuel you burn the hotter the cylinder temps too, all N20 does is allow you to burn more fuel </TD></TR></TABLE>


for smaller shots yes no timing required.you better go back and do your home work if you think fuel creates heat...pulling timing builds extreme heat "think about it"

for smaller shots pulling timing won't hurt but it's useless.now with big shots,that is what keeps the temps down.compression is what creates the heat.

agrn93ls

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nitrousballa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


for smaller shots yes no timing required.you better go back and do your home work if you think fuel creates heat...pulling timing builds extreme heat "think about it"

for smaller shots pulling timing won't hurt but it's useless.now with big shots,that is what keeps the temps down.compression is what creates the heat.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what I said is the more you burn the more heat is created meaning any thing you do to your car that in turn burns more fuel creates higher temps, more fire more heat no?

I know retarding timing builds heat but come on 2 degrees, you are really gonna say 2 degrees for safety is useless?

nitrousballa

nice try tho on changing things.....but you don't have a clue i can tell.
how about this.just do a dry shot and see what happens with no fuel.
since you say fuel creates heat hell do AWAY WITH IT.....LMAO.