aleks77

Hey just wondering what you guys recommend for a daily driven 400whp honda. I was thinkin of goin 94a but heard that its insanely bad vibrations at idle, im not gonna go solid for sure, was thinkin of goin 80d but some say even that is too stiff for daily driver.

Thanks for any input!

non-VTEC

stock mounts work perfectly fine.........

what is the reason you want to fill them for? what are you expecting go get/gain from them?

CRVRX

I run completely stock mounts with a Energy suspension insert in just the back one. Has a smooth idle without hop.

BB6-213

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by non-VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock mounts work perfectly fine.........

what is the reason you want to fill them for? what are you expecting go get/gain from them?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Harder Mounts are the easiest cure for wheel hop. I know that the inserts almost eliminated my wheel hop on my 300hp setup, but I am also going to fill mine to get them harder.

BlueSi2k

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by non-VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock mounts work perfectly fine.........

what is the reason you want to fill them for? what are you expecting go get/gain from them?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i ripped the **** outta my lower torque mounts. I would say you need at least inserts.

slooogsr

Filled mine with 3m windshield adhesive, polyurethane glue.........

Inserts were used on some as well..........

aleks77

I want to use them to cure wheel hop as mentioned above, maybe i'll use inserts. What mounts can be filled with harder stuff that wont make the car vibrate that much? the front?

quik sol

screw inserts, they are a rip off...go old school...

Goto autozone, or advanced, grab a tube of "Window Weld". costs like 4 bucks, completely fill your motor mounts with it, then use a rubber glove to smooth out the sides (or your hands will be stained for 2 weeks, trust me)

GarageAlchemist

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by non-VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock mounts work perfectly fine.........

what is the reason you want to fill them for? what are you expecting go get/gain from them?</TD></TR></TABLE>

stock mounts work good for stock engines, but when your flying up to 9,000 rpms and doing 12's your engine/chassis reacts a lot. Filled mounts helps push some of that energy away from the engine and to the wheels

aleks77

is window weld pretty solid stuff or is it still alright for daily driven? Thanks!

2point2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quik sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> (or your hands will be stained for 2 weeks, trust me)</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol.. happened to you too?

boosted timebomb

window weld is fine for DD i just filled mine and it doesnt vibrate too bad at all. it also eliminated almost all of my wheel hop.

aleks77

is window weld all the same? or is there also stiffer stuff and softer stuff

0morgan@synapse motorsport

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slooogsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Filled mine with 3m windshield adhesive, polyurethane glue.........

Inserts were used on some as well..........

</TD></TR></TABLE>

3m Windshield adhesive FTW

quik sol

window weld at local auto store, or liquid nails at local home improvement stuff...and yes it works great for a DD, tight, but not to tight.

aleks77

i looked at my spare motor mounts, and on one of them like half of it is cracked, and seperated, and on the other the whole middle part where the bolt goes, is like BARELY hanging out.....will the window weld kinda glue all that into 1 piece? or do i need new inserts or new mounts? Thanks!

stinker504

I used 60A and if I had to do it over again I would go 80A. 60A works great, but on the dyno I can see the engine rock a little more than I want. If you're looking for something DD and comfertable then 60A is a very good option.

twkdCD595

I used the 3m product as well (although I use a urethane insert in the front mount), worked great and the increased vibration is very reasonable imo. Feels just like my friends car who runs urethane inserts in all his mounts.

Nothing near as bad as the solid mounts some other friends use... those are a little much for me. Makes me feel like a cheap martini.

EG civic

I use the 70a hasport mounts, for a daily driven car. They vibrate everything quite a lot, especially the glove box shakes a lot and the steering wheel, but I really feel it in my feet when i drive and so do the passangers with me its a very strong vibration. Other than that the engine will not move and their is about no wheel hop. So I would suggest the hasport 70a mounts if you dont mind the added vibrations.

HiProfile

If you have spare mounts or its a project car you don't mind driving for a while, fill them with polyurethane caulk. Unless you layer it, it will take a long time to dry. It will firm up, but the final 5% will take a week or two. That last 5% will make them sag if you put them in too early.

I just used the inserts on my coupe (eg kit I got was rear & tq mounts only). My motor barely moves (on the dyno), nor does it have any wheel hop. The other cars I saw at the 'dyno day' had stock mounts, and even the NA b16's were flopping around like crazy. Unless you drive like my grandma, do *something* for your mounts...

aleks77

I didnt get an answer to my above post, i have spare mounts, and one of them is cracked, like i can move it apart from the side and the middle, and the other one is barely hanging on in the middle, so when i fill them with window weld (my choice so far) will that be ok? or do i need new mounts?

boosted timebomb

if you have spares why not do it. it might work it might not...it never hurts to try