jdm95

Ok so to start off ive got a 1995 integra gsr running a peakboost ramhorn kit (t3/t4 57 trim). ECU is a Neptune RTP and have the AEM wideband directly running into the ECU.

Heres the problem which i cant figure out what it could be. During the daytime when im not using the headlights at idle the car idles fine and O2 reading is 14.5-17 and everything is fine. However at night time and i have my headlights on as soon as i turn on the headlights the O2 reading goes to 10.0 or less where the wideband wont even read its so rich. I can turn the headlights off it goes back to a good reading, back on it goes super rich again. Sometimes it gets so rich the idle goes up and down between 600-1100 rpm's.

I have checked all grounds in the engine bay( thermostat housing, ground from battery to chasis, ground on tranny housing) I have read the power on the battery with the car running and off. Ive also read the power on the alternator under different loads( headlights on/off, low RPM's/High RPM's). All of it reads good and i cant find a variation in the power load that would cause this. Theres no releation between the O2 readings and turning the headlights on that i can find. I have even cleaned all the grounds and made sure they are tight just to take that out of the equation but still no luck. I will say before the turbo, ECU, etc... I had the hid's in the car and this was not a problem so im assuming something done between then and now is the problem... Im leaning towards possibly the ECU but im not really good with electrical problems so i might be completely wrong so anyone who might have a idea towards the cause help me out....

Luckily the air/fuel during driving is fine im just trying to figure this problem out cause it really doesnt make a whole lot of sense to me...... Thanks

cleansi

where are you getting your power source from for the wideband guage?

Gunmetal_B20_Hatch

iTrader: (9)

May need to touch up your battery offset table.

q16racer

my inner intuition tells me it may be a little more indepth than that solely because i've never seen injector offsets off so bad that it does this just when you turn the lights on. Running the lights wont typically result in that much of a voltage drop.

OP, what does the voltage do when you turn the lights on?

darkvader0

Have you determined yet if it is just the gauge glitching and reading rich? Or are you actually pumping that much fuel in?


Do you have closed loop set up to use the wideband?

jdm95

Power for the gauge is tapped off one of the tap spots in the fuse panel under the dash.

As for voltage drop with lights on its 14.5 with headlights off

With headlights on it only drops to 14.3-4.

I tried everything i could think of even checking it at 2k rpm's etc. and no noticiable voltage drop to indicate what may be causing it.

And yes as soon as i turn on the headlights the idle noticiable changes.

Thanks for all who have replied hoping to get this resolved cause im out of ideas...

jdm95

Its def for sure running rich and not just a glitch, ive read it directly off the laptop plugged into the ECU. Im kind of at a loss at the moment of whats the cause. Im leaning towards the ECU cause thats the only thing i can think of if all the power sources are good and grounds also. The only other thing that would cause a change in air/fuel would be the ecu but im just dumbfounded why the ECU would change it when you turn on the headlights it just makes no sense. Im hoping one of you guys is a guru with electrical and might have some ideas. If i cant figure it out soon gonna try using my buddies Hondata at the tuner and see if that changes it and if so gonna sell my Neptune RTP and go with Hondata instead. Neptune has been fine and i have no bad things to say but if thats the problem then out with the old and in with the new.........

q16racer

your problem has nothing to do with neptunes software. maybe your battery offsets really are that far off, maybe you have the wrong injectors selected, maybe you have something wrong with your headlight wiring.

there really is no telling until you get your hands dirty and search for the problem.

jdm95

Well i def dont have the wrong injectors selected especially because if i did i would be jacked up running across the board not just when the headlights are turned on.

Also i stated the headlight situation didnt exsist before the ECU, turbo etc. and the headlight wiring hasnt been touched unless you count a plug and play hid kit way before the problem started.

And i have got my hands dirty going through everything i could think of which i have listed on here. Thus i have given the situation in hope someone might know something i havent looked for yet.

The only thing i havent singled out of the equation would be the ECU but im hoping thats not the problem cause i dont have the cash flow to get another ecu at the moment and its not that pressing just trying to get to the bottom of it.

q16racer

take the covers off the ecu and check for burns.

jdm95

Had the cover off the ECU, no burns nothing everything looks fine and seems to be operating fine. Light on the Neptune board shows correct indication and everything.

Im kind of at a loss here. It could be something really easy or something really jacked up. I havent messed with the headlight harness its totally stock with the exception of the hid kit pluged in and i always solder and heatshrink all electrical connections so im guessing whatever the problem is is not because of a loose connection from me.

Its just weird that i can turn the headlights on and watch my O2 readings completely go rich. It makes no sense. Im being told from knowledgeable friends of mine to get rid of the Neptune.

I cant say ive had any problems with the Neptune except i tried to use the anti theft feature and i worked but then it will automatically put the car in anti-theft mode and make it where it wont rev over 2k so i turned that feature back off. Its not cool to be on the dyno or driving highway speeds and your car now decides it wont go over 2K. I had that feature on for about one day before calling it quits. Other than that it works fine. But ill probably still get rid of it soon seeing as how it doesnt have a knock sensor reading in the software and some other stuff Hondata has. And for all i know this problem is coming from the Neptune. Guess we will see. If anyone else has a idea LMK.

d112crzy

Are you checking voltage through the datalogs?

I've only had 1 car I've tuned react badly with any voltage drop. This was with an untuned battery offset table. Once tuned, it got A LOT better, but still noticeable. We replaced the alternator out of curiosity and the /voltage/rpm drop was pretty much non existent after that.

The a/f change wasn't anywhere near 4 points drastic though. More like 1 a/f point. I'd try switching wideband power to the battery and ground on the thermostat. Then add a few small ground or a couple with =<4 gage wire .

maui_EG6

Did anyone ever find out what was wrong with this guys car because i have the same problem with my gsr i put 1000cc injectors and now my car goes lean and idle drops to around 400rpm when i turn headlights on or fan turns on.. Any help would b appreaciated thanks.

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

Everything pointed to an issue with the Injector Battery offset table. Research your injector's offset specs and make sure (not assume) the offset table is correct.

Gunmetal_B20_Hatch

iTrader: (9)

x2

every set of injectors will need slight tweaking to the offset tables, IMO.

Also, are these ID-1000 or similar Bosch injectors? if so, then they are actually 900cc, not 1000. The 1000cc rating was achieved with C16 fuel which flows differently that gasoline.

92redhatch

Battery offset tables are messed up. Fix them and have no more problems