Went to the Dyno today! *VIDEO INSIDE*
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Went to the Dyno today! *VIDEO INSIDE*
as you can see... something is wrong mechanically.. we adjusted timing, and made no difference in the top end..
anyways, if you guys could help me troubleshoot what might be wrong... im thinking distributor, ignition coil or mid 11afr's are too rich....
replacing spark plug wires with new 8.5mm ones (as oppose to stock size napa brand) gave me +20hp... but the old ones had fallen apart during a spark plug check.. and the wires were kinda melted as well..
here's the video...
anyways, if you guys could help me troubleshoot what might be wrong... im thinking distributor, ignition coil or mid 11afr's are too rich....
replacing spark plug wires with new 8.5mm ones (as oppose to stock size napa brand) gave me +20hp... but the old ones had fallen apart during a spark plug check.. and the wires were kinda melted as well..
here's the video...
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Re: Went to the Dyno today! *VIDEO INSIDE* (9295EJ-t)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 9295EJ-t »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">replacing spark plug wires with new 8.5mm ones (as oppose to stock size napa brand) gave me +20hp... but the old ones had fallen apart during a spark plug check.. and the wires were kinda melted as well.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Helms/Honda recommend replacing plug wires once a year. I would almost guess new 16ga speaker wires would have done better than old, deteriorating wires.
It looks almost like you're having issues maintaining full spark - something is affecting it, possibly blowing it out. Some people I've talked to would say your dyno graph looks like it has too much timing. SOHC's don't like timing like B's, and being on the bleeding-edge of timing numbers is usually detrimental.
BTW...setup? I'm guessing 3" sections of exhaust and a 50trim t3/t04e?
Helms/Honda recommend replacing plug wires once a year. I would almost guess new 16ga speaker wires would have done better than old, deteriorating wires.
It looks almost like you're having issues maintaining full spark - something is affecting it, possibly blowing it out. Some people I've talked to would say your dyno graph looks like it has too much timing. SOHC's don't like timing like B's, and being on the bleeding-edge of timing numbers is usually detrimental.
BTW...setup? I'm guessing 3" sections of exhaust and a 50trim t3/t04e?
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Re: Went to the Dyno today! *VIDEO INSIDE* (HiProfile)
oh ****... sorry for the lack of info guys... i am avid members of other sites where it is known by almost all, what my setup is....
the jist of it is...
D16Z6
Precision SC61
.5 bar spring 15psi
RC550s
CROME Pro.
FJT H-Beams ACL Bearings
SRP 75.5mm 9.0:1
Comp. Clutch Stage3 w/ 4 Puck
Comp. Clutch 8.5lb Flywheel
Stock head..
anyways... are you suggesting retarding timing would help a bit? this is a good possibility... i retarded timing 1.5* and gained 10whp... but i didnt go any farther than that because it didnt help the shape of the power curve/band..and it was already at about 15*s timing at 15psi.... (i thought that was a bit too retarded..)
more input would be great!
the jist of it is...
D16Z6
Precision SC61
.5 bar spring 15psi
RC550s
CROME Pro.
FJT H-Beams ACL Bearings
SRP 75.5mm 9.0:1
Comp. Clutch Stage3 w/ 4 Puck
Comp. Clutch 8.5lb Flywheel
Stock head..
anyways... are you suggesting retarding timing would help a bit? this is a good possibility... i retarded timing 1.5* and gained 10whp... but i didnt go any farther than that because it didnt help the shape of the power curve/band..and it was already at about 15*s timing at 15psi.... (i thought that was a bit too retarded..)
more input would be great!
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Re: Went to the Dyno today! *VIDEO INSIDE* (9295EJ-t)
I would verify your mechanical timing/igniton base timing is correct.. do you use a aftermarket cam gear?
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Re: (9295EJ-t)
double check base timing with a timing gun. 15* total at 15 psi is a decent amount of timing.
whats your spark plug and gap at? it appears to be spark/timing not fuel related. go get some bkr7e's and gap them at like .022 and hit the dyno again
whats your spark plug and gap at? it appears to be spark/timing not fuel related. go get some bkr7e's and gap them at like .022 and hit the dyno again
#9
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Re: (blackeg)
you can see the same wavyness at the low end of his graph, the same as the high end wavyness. .
my car had a weird problem like this and a valve adjustment helped out a good amount. along with adding fuel/timing. the blue line is when we started a pull with more heat in the engine.
here is what it looked like
here is an overlay from before and after the valve adjustment, and fuel trim was taken out of it.
my car had a weird problem like this and a valve adjustment helped out a good amount. along with adding fuel/timing. the blue line is when we started a pull with more heat in the engine.
here is what it looked like
here is an overlay from before and after the valve adjustment, and fuel trim was taken out of it.
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Re: Went to the Dyno today! *VIDEO INSIDE* (9295EJ-t)
I've had similar issues with two cars. First car the valve adjustment was WAY off. Second car didn't have the vtec locking pins
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Re: Went to the Dyno today! *VIDEO INSIDE* (9295EJ-t)
Are you still running a stock internal coil? I'm running oem wires with a msd blaster coil with ngk 7e's gapped at .22-.23
Yea you should be making alot more power than that with a s61 and 15psi.
Get those ignition issues sorted out.
Yea you should be making alot more power than that with a s61 and 15psi.
Get those ignition issues sorted out.
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talked to a few gurus...
they say valve float... my valve lash adjustment is too tight... which makes sense, because when the motor is hot, its hard to start... i must have used the minimum clearance the last time i adjusted my valves...
they say valve float... my valve lash adjustment is too tight... which makes sense, because when the motor is hot, its hard to start... i must have used the minimum clearance the last time i adjusted my valves...
#13
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Re: (9295EJ-t)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 9295EJ-t »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">talked to a few gurus...
they say valve float... my valve lash adjustment is too tight... which makes sense, because when the motor is hot, its hard to start... i must have used the minimum clearance the last time i adjusted my valves...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Using the min clearance won't cause any issues... I would say more like you incorrectly read the feeler gauges.
they say valve float... my valve lash adjustment is too tight... which makes sense, because when the motor is hot, its hard to start... i must have used the minimum clearance the last time i adjusted my valves...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Using the min clearance won't cause any issues... I would say more like you incorrectly read the feeler gauges.
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well... just finished up the valves... i used the max tolerance's (.009" intake and .011" exhaust).. turned out great! cranked up a hell of a lot faster than usual... also sounds a lot smoother...
and while making adjustments, of course, i also checked the origional clearances... most of the exhaust side were fine, but all of the intake sides were out of tolerance (tighter than .007") some were even .005"s..
anyways, based on some posts from honda-tech and friends with actual knowledge/experience of this problem, i really believe this will be the ultimate factor of lack of top end power...
i will try to get back on the dyno later this week... and get the real potential out of my motor!
and while making adjustments, of course, i also checked the origional clearances... most of the exhaust side were fine, but all of the intake sides were out of tolerance (tighter than .007") some were even .005"s..
anyways, based on some posts from honda-tech and friends with actual knowledge/experience of this problem, i really believe this will be the ultimate factor of lack of top end power...
i will try to get back on the dyno later this week... and get the real potential out of my motor!
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