VTC_CiViC

I took a trip to CFM today after work and spoke to the man himself, Forrest, about my build up. It all comes down to $2900 for everything w/o sleeving (another $550-750), and this includes labor and head work. So how does this all sound to you guys? I know it's alot, but SFP was about $2700 w/o labor so I actually think I'm gonna come out pleanty better with CFM.

Another question.. how importnant is it that I do the head at the same time as everything else? I was quoted at:

$320 for oversized SS Ferrea valves
$250 for springs and retainers
$350 for the PnP and relapping/sealing the valve stems

That's a total of about $920 I can save if I do at a later date, or is it imperitive that I do the head with the block?? Let me know what you fellas think

ekb18c

You can hold up on PnP if you like, but definitly do the valves and springs and retainers. What kind of springs and retainers are they giving you for $250? Pnp would allow more air to flow through, its really up to you. I say you might as well do it for an extra $350. Do it right the first time!!

AlphaKennyWun

What youre getting for $2900?

D-SPEED

is this on a D16 ?

VTC_CiViC

Crower rods
JE 9.0:1 77mm pistons w/ rings
ARP harware
All new seals and bearings throughout
Water pump
Oil pump
PnP head
new valve springs and titanium retainers
valves re lapped and sealed
oversized Ferrea SS valves
Intake mani matching to head and 60mm B-series TB

I have to decide with whom to sleeve it all, though I think it'll be between Mesa balacing (they do lots of race engines, used to be SFP's #1 choice before they switch to Darton), or GE sleeves.

AlphaKennyWun

well I added the prices that I have paid for or been quoted on these parts (very similar to my B18c1 set up) and it came out very close to the sfp cost, actually I got $2900 no labor.

I dont know how they can do it for $2700 with labor ???? That is good price considering labor is included.

Hammer_head

Check out www.rpmrons.com.

They are building up my 4G63 and Ron really knows what he's talking about. Give him a call and be a believer.

This guy is building a monster for me. Ross 9.0:1 forged pistons w/wristpins and rings, , complete balance/blueprint/index/polish of my rotating assembly, R&R of the head with Manley 1mm over SS valves, new valve guides, decking, all the usual magnaflux/honing/boring/beadblasting/painting of the block and head, and complete reassembly with new timing components, all for $2400 with parts.

And here is the best part of all:

12 month/ friggin' 12,000 mile warranty on all of his labor.

SIK IN DA HED

stock motor rules!

VTC_CiViC

Right now my biggest concern is sleeving. I know GE has made a name for themselves, but that's an extra $750 + S/H, whereas both SFP and CFM use a select local machineist to do their sleeving, and from what I've been told, they're excellent blocks too.. I'm going to call and verify that the $550 I was quoted to sleeve my block was indeed with stronger aftermarket iron sleeves and not OEM replacements.. if it's good, I think Forrest pretty much sold me on doing it there. I'll let you guys know

X2BOARD

$2900 sounds good for what you are getting.

I would not go with the Ferrera valves, they are overpriced generally.

As far as the PnP on the head, find out who is doing it for CFM, but I know Forrest does headwork very well, don't know about the rest, but the headwork is good (He does SFP's work right ?) as long as you get a good price on the headwork, DO IT, mild, but do it you will already have the head just about bare and you are gonna put a new top end gasket/seal kit anyways, so why not just avoid future downtime and have it done while the head's off and dissasembled !

Is the price of the valve job included in the $2900 ? Going oversized right ?
If this is going to be a daily driver, don't go all out with the 5 angle, keep it at 3 !

VTC_CiViC

Yea the $2900 includes the headwork and all head components. So I gather this is a good price then? Sounds good. There were two interesting points to the build tha Forrest and Jarred brought out to me yesterday that I wanted to ask you guys your opinion:

#1- They encouraged me to step up to a 77mm bore vs. the stock 75mm. I'm sure there's enough room in the block for the increase, but with this create any problems with matching the combustion chamber to the block opening?

#2- They also encouranged me to use a blockguard even after I sleeve. I was always under the impression that going with stronger aftermarket sleeves would relive you of having to deal with blockguards and their inherit cooling problems. Has anybody heard of going with a BG and sleeves in a 350whp engine?

X2BOARD

1) Overboring is fine, IF your block is sleeved. I would not recommend overboring otherwise.

2) At that anticipated Hp, hell yeah you should get a BG. At least get one tapped in if you are not going to sleeve now. If you are going to hone the block (you will do it after sleeving) You prolly want to get your blockguard welded in when you sleeve, that would be the best way.

I have heard good things about the STR blockguard (superior cooling).

Why not just remove your thermostat to keep the motor running cool all of the time ?

VTC_CiViC

Sounds good

Spade

The thermo is not a good thing to remove. If you engine is cooled too much it will effect not only horsepower but emissions and gas milage as well!

VTC: If you are going with the head work, as for some brass valve guides as well!! No point in getting SS valves if they are still rubbing on the stock guides.

X2BOARD

No real need in brass guides, they're gonna get filed down on the exhaust ports anyways....

As far as keeping 'too cool' without a thermostat.... I don't think VTC is running all motor.... turbo cars on the other hand get HOT, all of the time. The no thermo should work like a charm.... especially in the Miami heat !

Ray

$2900 on a d16?

I would swap in a B-series motor first.

VTC_CiViC

B18C1 swap alone will cost me $3k easy.. w/o install

Spade

OIC.

Spade - Who is just starting to learn about turbocharged engines.

Filed down? Not quite understanding.....don't guides go completly through the head and the valve slide inside them!?! You would still have the friction of the valves vs. guides inside the block.

Hammer_head

Did you or are you going to check www.rpmrons.com ?

KhRoNiX

Good luck with Forrest because I know that I have not had the best experiences with him AT ALL.

Ray

I said B-series motor, you can get a B16 cheap. It's always good to build on a better base. But hey it's your money, go spend 3k on a $300 d16 then.

VTC_CiViC

I hear ya meng... I'm not 100% sold on CFM yet though I'm leaning awfully close to it already.

X2BOARD- Dude I spoke to Laz at Mesa, really cool guy I'm pretty much set on sleeving with him ($600), thanks for the reccomendation

98civicEX

make us D16ers proud! lets see 350whp!

liam821

that should haulass. I remember my old built d16z6 with 18psi...ooohhh yaaa it really hauled ***. Lots of fun!!

With that setup and sleeves you should beable to boost that to 25-30psi...hhaa...the promise land!

liam

X2BOARD

No problem brother...

P.S. I gotta put in my $0.02, I gotta go with Kronix on this... I'm not too hot on Forrest as far as building your motor. I have heard a couple of stories (and seen one too) that involve smoking... (and not the chronic either). Keep on the look out.