0KStuned

I posted this in Drag Racing forum with moderate response. I am doing this for a friend/customer and would like to get it PERFECT the first time. So any advice, suggestions from those who KNOW is appreciated.

Ok, I am working on sumping the fuel tank of a DA integra using Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump, I will keep them simple for this first post, and hopefully turn this into a discussion, so I can get all of my questions answered.

-Any other way to prepare the tank for welding besides having it hot-tanked? I don't want it to BLOW UP!!!

-Aeromotive says that I have to run -10 line all the way from the tank to the rail, my plan was -10 from the tank, then a reducer fitting so I can run -8 from the pump to the fuel rail, with a -6 return.

-If I use the competition engineering sump, the fuel pickup, and the sump will be EXTREMELY low to the ground, so I was planning on making a much more shallow sump that only extends down about an inch or less, and basically welding fittings to that.... as SixtyDashOne has done:..... so it the sump doesn't risk bottoming out on speed bumps!


Any other tips with this setup? I would no doubt place the pump differently, but does this sump work as it is? If it does, it seems I could just weld the fittings directly to the back of the tank (although I plan to make at least a shallow sump)

-How about for the return line?? Just run -6 line from the regulator to the same place the stock return goes on the tank and weld a -6 fitting there?

This sump looks liket the Competition Engineering sump from Summitt..... BUT it is TOO DEEP..... risks bottoming out!

89 CRX SI

isnt it mad leaking and gas seeaping all over the tank making it with the wet look?????

just get a fuel cell would be safer and cheaper

turbologist

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89 CRX SI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">isnt it mad leaking and gas seeaping all over the tank making it with the wet look?????

just get a fuel cell would be safer and cheaper </TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont think its leaking gas...Thats just a high gloss paint on the sump...

As far as getting a fuel cell, it depends on what class he plans on running in...SFWD does not allow cells...


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hondaddict &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
-Any other way to prepare the tank for welding besides having it hot-tanked? I don't want it to BLOW UP!!!

-Aeromotive says that I have to run -10 line all the way from the tank to the rail, my plan was -10 from the tank, then a reducer fitting so I can run -8 from the pump to the fuel rail, with a -6 return.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hot-tanking will not blow your gas tank up....Its just a hot cleaning solution used to bathe an object so that any unwanted material (dirt, oxidation, etc) is removed...

Is there a reason you want to reduce your feed to a -8? I would stick with the -10...

green_GSR

Is this for a street/daily driven car? I hate to say this, but I wouldn't feel safe at all to drive my car like this everyday knowing that if anything hits the external pump, I would spill gas everywhere.

How much fuel do you really need? Does your fuel requirement exceed a high-flow pump like Walbro 255lph? Oh yeah, most of the external pumps out there are very very noisy...another thing to consider.

0KStuned

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbologist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Hot-tanking will not blow your gas tank up....Its just a hot cleaning solution used to bathe an object so that any unwanted material (dirt, oxidation, etc) is removed...

Is there a reason you want to reduce your feed to a -8? I would stick with the -10...</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL, I made that unclear. I meant the possibility of it blowing up when welding. I am having a hard time finding a machinist who will hot tank it for me, so I am looking for alternatives to prepare the tank for welding, to reduce the chance of it blowing up when we strike an arc! (I don't want to kill my welder, he is a good friend )

I am wanting to reduce to -8AN in hopes that less fuel will be delivered to the rail under normal driving conditions, because way too much fuel will be returning from the rail to the tank when just idling and cruising around, and so I don't have to use a fuel cooler.
....But it just hit me that a better way to do that would be to use a fuel pump voltage "controller" to regulate volume/pressure delivered to the rail, I wonder how that will work?! aeromotive sells the voltage controller/or regulator or whatever it is. I will contact them today.

Oh, and don't bother posting about a fuel cell, we are going to sump the stock tank. Suggestions and advice please.

Turbo E

wow..if that hose gets ripped off by a road hazzard....*thinks of a DeLorean hitting 88 MPH*

0KStuned

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by green_GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is this for a street/daily driven car? I hate to say this, but I wouldn't feel safe at all to drive my car like this everyday knowing that if anything hits the external pump, I would spill gas everywhere.

How much fuel do you really need? Does your fuel requirement exceed a high-flow pump like Walbro 255lph? Oh yeah, most of the external pumps out there are very very noisy...another thing to consider.</TD></TR></TABLE>


the pump will have no risk of contact, it will be mounted in a safe place, NOT like the pic above.

It is for a "street car", we want way more power than is necessary, so I am sure we will make 550whp. And as far as the noise the fuel pump makes.... the more the better! I love the buzzing sound of this fuel pump, I plan to mount it somewhere where it would be somewhat visible!

Turbo E

still think its overkill.

0KStuned

Overkill?.....

Yes, Yes it is.

Turbo E

its nice, but what i mean is unnecessary extra parts = more things to troubleshoot when the poop hits the fan.

green_GSR

Believe me, external pumps don't just buzz like a high-flow in-tank, but they whine like ****

As for welding the tank, once a tank has seen fuel, the metal will absorb the fuel. It's almost impossible (as far as I know) to get rid of the fuel soaked into the metal. You can try cleaning it, but you'll still run into the risk of the fuel tank explosion when you weld it. So I would get a brand new tank just to have the piece of mind

simple4012

i work at nrgtech which is the shop that welded the first gs tank.

to clean the tanks we just flush water through the tank over and over. 4 or 5 times and the tank is clear. as for the undercoating.......its tricky

0KStuned

Undercoating could be easily removed by sandblasting,.... as long as you could ensure no sand got in the tank.


I think I am just going to seek out a shop to hot-tank it.

NRGTech: How did you remove the undercoating?

Finest

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hondaddict &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think I am just going to seek out a shop to hot-tank it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good idea. I don't want to read about how you blew up your shop. Just like that old story about the guy that accidently left his nitrous bottle warmer turned on. KABBOOOM!

BTW, can't you just "modify" the CE sump tank? Just make it more shallow by cutting an inch or so off the sides and rear. And are you going to add any baffles or no?

There is no such thing as OVERKILL!

porsche997dc2

When I modified my Porsche gas tank, I brought it to radiator cleaning shop. Radiator cleaning shop can weld, clean and check for leak.

BROOD

Flush the tank out with a citrus base cleaner that emulsufies petroliums, flush it out with that at least twice, then flush a few times with strait water. Dump it out and let air dry overnight......you'll be fine to weld the next day.
I've done it may times. Afterwards I suggest using a gas tank sealer to ensure against any pinholes and to seal the non-zinc plated portion of the sump and welds.

The comp eng sump is pretty low, I'm using one now. I should have cut it down to decrease the drop about an inch. Although to give it a fair shot I have been driving arouns with it and have not hit anything.

You do not need to run any additional baffles in the sump. The bottom of the tank gets five 2" holes drilled in it to lead fuel to the sump. Kindly I suggest not drilling the one forward hole like Comp Eng suggests in the templete.....the rear fourt holes are more than enough....and will give alittle better forward slosh resolution

Turbo E

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98CTRCoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Good idea. I don't want to read about how you blew up your shop. Just like that old story about the guy that accidently left his nitrous bottle warmer turned on. KABBOOOM!
</TD></TR></TABLE>

didnt he bypass the bottl'es safety pressure relief valve? thats what caused the kaboom not the warmer.

turbodGSR

the local welding shop i think fills the tanks with argon before welding.

Rboosted717

iTrader: (1)

Pack the inside of the gas tank with dry ice. Dry ice vapors will allow you to weld the tank without fire problems. You will still smell some gas fumes while welding, however the dry ice will make it safe.

0KStuned

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BROOD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Flush the tank out with a citrus base cleaner that emulsufies petroliums, flush it out with that at least twice, then flush a few times with strait water. Dump it out and let air dry overnight......you'll be fine to weld the next day.
I've done it may times. Afterwards I suggest using a gas tank sealer to ensure against any pinholes and to seal the non-zinc plated portion of the sump and welds.

The comp eng sump is pretty low, I'm using one now. I should have cut it down to decrease the drop about an inch. Although to give it a fair shot I have been driving arouns with it and have not hit anything.

You do not need to run any additional baffles in the sump. The bottom of the tank gets five 2" holes drilled in it to lead fuel to the sump. Kindly I suggest not drilling the one forward hole like Comp Eng suggests in the templete.....the rear fourt holes are more than enough....and will give alittle better forward slosh resolution</TD></TR></TABLE>

Now that is the kind of response I am looking for! Thanks.

BROOD

No problem, I was worried about the gasoline fumes while welding also. Just take precautions and you'll be safe.
Good luck

porsche997dc2

Before I modified my gas tank for my Porsche. I think I first fill the whole tank with water and let sit out side for 2 days. Drained it & I made sure I didn't sell any fume before I start cutting. If I do it again, I will just bring it to the radiator cleaning shop and let them remove the fumes, bring it home and start cutting.

RenoRacing

Here's a thread that I started that will help you with some of your questions hopefully.
I made my own sump cause the competition is way too deep!!!
https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1
about 10" of hose with only about a 2" rise in elevevation. sucks fine and loud.!!!

Full-Race Javier

when i prepped my tank....i drained all the gas and put it in the car i was driving then i just rinsed it out with some dish soap and let it sit for a while (week or so) for the undercoating, i used a right angle grinder with an aggresive grit to grind/melt off the undercoating. then i cleaned it again. for the baffle, i used the stock tank and just drilled a pattern of 1.0 in. holes with a hole saw. then i just contoured the sump to the tank and it weld'd up just fine and if you place the pump/filter/sump along the axis of the rear suspension/wheels, then you shouldnt have any clearance issues.

geoff has never had a prob with his aeromotive placement


my sump

0KStuned

Thanks guys! I will post pics when I get it mounted.