Vtecrackhead

What's up Honda heads I have been a long time reader on HT , With my Turbo build in full swing I've decided to share it with you all. This thread will be a place for me to shares my build and also to gain advise, pointers and so on from the HT gurus. The car is a 99 Civic EX coupe that I bought bone stock in highschool. Currently the car has a JDM B16A and basically full bolt ons. On to the build.
My goal for this build is to have a really well built street car. Power goals are somewhere between 380whp and 450whp. Running 93 octane pump gas, and would like to be in a fairly safe range of boost. All of the parts I have accumulated are based on a ton of reaserch here on HT and sites like his one, as I have no real mentor for the build I would like to see everyone's opinions and advise on it. Greg from Goautoworks has helped me choose the right turbo kit for the setup and has helped me with some questions along the way. Thanks Greg. On to the build...

Block:
JDM B18C CSS 81.5
Manley H beam rods
Wiseco 10:1 pistons
Stock Crank micropolished and checked
King bearings
ARP mainstuds (block line honed ect)
Moroso 5.5 quart baffled oil pan
ITR oil pump / water pump / tensioner with arp bolt
gates racing blue belt
ATI superdamper
oil squirter plugs

Head:
B16A2 head stock ports
GSC T1 cams
Skunk 2 cam gears
Supertech 85 lb springs and Ti retainers
Stock hydraulic LMAS
Ferrea valve guides
Ferrea 6000 series STD valves intake and exhaust
Ferrea valve keepers
ARP headstuds
Oem Honda head gasket

Trans:
GSR transmission
LS 3rd and 4th
Quaife LSD
Autozone axles lol
Bought the transmission used so I need to go through it and change synchros, will probly use syncrotech carbon stuff.
Comp Twin disk clutch, reason for choosing this clutch will be longevity and when I decide to run e85 and turn the car up I don't want to buy another clutch.

Turbo Kit:
Goautoworks px600 AC friendly
Ram horn manifold
Turbonetics T-GA 5862 dual ball bearing .63 AR
Tial MVS and Tial blow off
3 port boost soilenoid and hardlines, pushlock fittings
2.5-3" down pipe
76mm skunk 2 megapower exhaust, no cat
WG dump to the ground

Fuel:
Walboro 255
-6an lines from pump to fuel rail and return
AEM high flow filter stock location
AEM fuel rail and FPR
No banjo fittings in the system
ID 1000 injectors

Electronics:
Hondata s300 v3 bluetooth and pwm boost installed
0bd2b to 0bd1 jumper
AEM X series gauges (AFR, boost, oil pressure)
OEM dizzy (obd2b), but i want to upgrade to a COP kit just not sure which kit.
4 bar map sensor (need to buy)
OEM tachometer hasn't worked since I went obd1 and I need to figure that out soon

Other parts:
Skunk 2 pro series intake manifold
Skunk 2 alpha 70 mm throttle body

Can't think of anything else right now.
The engine is at a reputable shop being built as I type.
Alamo Autosports in Arlington, Texas. Dropped it off 4 days ago. Very excited to get it back and keep making progress. I will need to purchace a traction bar and some sticky tires once I get it all together. And will be posting updates questions ect in this thread. All advise and input is welcome, I am glad to finally share my experiences here on HT !

Thanks for reading , Ian

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

20 years of doing this, and it's still a shock.

Vtecrackhead

Thanks for the reply TheShodan, this is exactly the kind of input I'm looking for. I've had no real advise just my reaserch so all of this is helpful. I'll try to reflect on everything you mentioned and hopefully it all makes sense.
I was unaware that the 5.5 quart oil pan would be problematic for drain routing but the main reason I chose it is simply because I'm a back road Twisties and touge kind of driver not just a straight liner. So I wanted something with good baffling, extra capacity and trap doors. I attend a private track day once a month in my Miata and would love to bring the Civic out from time to time. It's a Porsche test track so basically nothing but corners. As far as routing im a plumber so the plumbing shouldn't bust my ***** to hard, I'll make it work. Being that its even worse with the ram horn I look forward to the challenge haha. I wanted the ram horn cause it's got more room to grow power wise and looks WAY better than a cast log.
The ARP tensioner bolt was. 10$ add on and I haven't spared alot of expenses on this build so why not. Kind of the same with the plug squirters that and I wasn't sure if I'd need them or not.
The transmission is a unique one. I bought the GSR block, transmission and the ID1000 injectors all from one guy locally. He had put the LS 3rd and 4th in for "highway pulls" but it had a quaife LSD and thats basically what I paid for. Kind of regret it but I could always sorce other gears if I hate it.
The choice of clutch is a little extreme, originally when I started this build I had higher power goals like 450-550 whp. And one day I would like to be in that range but then the car becomes less streetable. Texas street cars are fast so I was aiming high. I've since settled for less and if you think its wise I will get a less aggressive clutch till I switch to e85 and / or make major upgrades. Though id rather be on the higher end of my power goals (450whp) then on the lower end.
The Turbo choice was with the help of Greg from Goautoworks, and he says it will work great for my build as well as have room for improvement once e85 is introduced ect. I should hit my goals on pump gas. But on that note my engine builder/ tuner says I'll be lucky to hit 350 whp at 20 psi with my setup which was disappointing. Greg reassured me that this should not be the case and gave me several examples. My tuner has 2 dynos and the Dyno he uses for fwd / rwd is known as the heartbreaker. Reads low but not terribly low as far as I understand. This is something I've been questioning recently as the build progresses. Idk if he tunes extremely safe or what. Your input on this subject would be helpful.
The skunk2 exaust sounds good as an all motor exhaust, if I hate it under boost I'll change it. What is the best sounding turbo exhaust in your opinion?
My tachometer not working has been a nuisance and I'd really prefer to use the OEM tachometer. I know it's a signal issue with the obd2b to obd1 conversion I just haven't figured out where to grab signal and take it to the cluster. I've tried a few things.
Once again I appreciate your time and everything will be taken into consideration so your response is worthy. Not sure what you mean by "20 years of doing this and it's still a shock". But I might inform you that I'm 23 so I've barley been around 20 years and this is my first build so noob stuff is to be expected. I've done pretty good so far I think just from my own reaserching and trying to chase my dreams of a turbo Civic.

Thank, Ian

K7-1Ktrevor

KiNGDEE206

iTrader: (1)

Vtecrackhead

Running the wire from the blue wire at the dizzy too the tach signal wire on the shock tower is something I have done and to my disappointment got no results.. Hondata has always seen the rpm readings though.

solo227

LS 3rd and 4th gears is gonna have you fall out of vtec everytime. Make sure you let your tuner know and have him lower the engagement point. Your definitely gonna hate if going into 3rd if you spend anytime on a circuit course. But quaife diffs are expensive as hell so its still a good buy. Just be ready to replace 3rd and 4th...

Vtecrackhead

I have a Goautoworks catch can just forgot to mention, the big one with 4 ports from the valve cover and 2 to the block. Just need to relocate the battery and I'm unsure if I can do a bumper relocation because of my intercooler piping. Really don't want to put the battery inside the cab. As far as the exhaust goes the skunk 2 is 76mm which is 3 inch so I'll probly use it to get the car on the road and tuned and if I hate it I'll buy something else. I really like the look and sound of the speed factory or ktuned lobster so I'll probly use something like that. And I already have the skunk2 intake manifold on the current setup so I'm going to reuse that for now. Can always be upgraded.

Vtecrackhead

Yeah Im sure it will bother me and will probly end up sorcing a GSR gear set or 3rd and 4th if I can buy just those. which sucks but I don't want to be falling out of vtec. And like you said the quaife was the real reason I jumped on it.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

There's a lot here, my friend. I'll break this down the best I can.

Can be done with either a stock oil pan, or even a Canton pan, which is made for these kinds of driving behaviours. Plumbing itself isn't the issue. It's the actual proper oil return routing that will be the challenge.

Be careful what you wish for... You might actually get it.

Many people for years have tried to use that logic when circuit/ "Togue" style racing. It is a terrible way to think, and for the use, it is not the right choice. But, since you already have it, you might as well use it, and get some guidance for the next time (if there is one).

You're right. You needed guidance before going into this direction. You weren't going to need the squirter block kit in this situation, and you should learn why. The tensioner bolt was fine. Just interesting to see that as part of a list.

You will... And .... You will.

Even at 500whp, that wasn't necessary at all. You need to read the proper descriptions of these clutches from their respective companies thoroughly before making a decision. Even if that means making a phone call to several manufacturers and describing your purpose for them to help with making the right decision. All that glitters is not gold.

Tuners need to really stick to tuning and not Turbo choice. They only go by what they've experienced with something remotely similar. Unless they intimately know the exact model that Greg, or any consultant is referring to, the tuner should just tune the car when its time and not speculate until the moment of truth.

Tuning is as much art as it is science. So, that's like asking me to judge Pablo Picasso's work based upon what I would do in Picasso's place. It's not a realistic way to get any feedback or input on any tuner. You'll either trust their decision, hope for the best, and drive the car to see if his/her work bore fruit, or simply go to another tuner. The dyno itself is simply a tool, and the power made is a mathematical issue, which has little to do with the tuner's ability to work with the car. So, don't worry about the power output so much as the behaviour of the car when it's completely done.

Well, that is subjective, and is strictly your choice. I like lower toned "professional" sounding exhausts, and the Skunk2 was anything but that after myself worked with a few. But if you like it, you like it. Considering the limited options available for pre-fabricated exhaust systems for Hondas, the only option I trust in a pre-fabricated 3" exhaust is from Thermal Research and Development. They've been making those exhausts since 2001, and are highly durable and functional. Much more than the Skunk2.

I think that's been answered already, so I'll let greater minds prevail.

Not bad.. Not bad at all. But like many younger people, don't get your head filled up with the power number so much, especially for the purpose you're using the car for. There are ways to be able to get better of two worlds, but you must not let your ego get in the way of the goal and purpose of the car. Large exhaust manifolds, big power dynos, "aewsome hyper-mega deals" on parts, and the like all can make you shoot yourself in the foot.

K7-1Ktrevor

Vtecrackhead

Thanks again for everyone's input, I've been busy working and making progress. Hopefully it's just a bad cluster, I'd like to get a CTR cluster anyway. Just don't have any Honda friends I could swap clusters with.

But on to the progress, the motor is home from the builder after about 3-4 weeks and looks great. The block line hone went well and is withing 1/1000th tolerance. Everything else checked out, and put together. I'll post some pictures.

Next is to get the transmission rebuilt with carbon syncros and I think I'll leave the LS 3rd and 4th gear in it for now . I did talk to my tuner about it and he thinks I'll be happy with it. After all it's dominatly a street car.

He recommended a twin disk so I'm gonna take his recommendation and just do it. I need to find a fabricator who can weld bungs on my valve cover for the catch can and then have it powder coated.

I bought a syncrotech sport brake kit ( drilled & slotted with stainless lines ) for the car as an OEM replacement for disk brakes.

Also new wheel bearings. Got skunk 2 front lower control arms rather than replacing the bushings myself. And plan to purchase a ktuned traction bar that has the additional motor mounting point for b series.

Pretty excited it's all coming together and it's almost time to pull the b16 out! I'll include some pictures.

Began to mock up the turbo kit just to get an idea of what needs to be done and for motivation.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Send it to Go-Autoworks. Greg turned my oil pan and valve cover around in 24 hours. I just did my own wrinkle paint job, but you should be able to find a local powder coater to handle that part.

jim chuck

Nice. Looking forward to seeing some more progress. Good luck to ya

Chance EG

On one hand I'd say welding bungs into an oil pan or valve cover is so easy/cheap you may as well just swing it by a local shop, but last time I did that they welded the bungs on the wrong f@#king side of my valve cover even AFTER I had cleaned and marked the area I wanted in sharpie.

I had two spots on the intake side clearly marked, they accidentally cleaned off the markings (admitted that) and then rather than call me just guessed where I wanted them and tapped the exhaust side. I'm still irrationally salty over this lol.

NVturbo

That's why I drilled out the holes for my welder when he added the 2 on the valve cover and 1 on the oil pan. Sometimes, you have to literally make it simple for people because they have no clue how to use a phone, besides being on FB or looking at **** videos..lol