Update #3 on my setup... charge piping/intake tube/catch can...
#1
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Update #3 on my setup... charge piping/intake tube/catch can...
figured I'd post up some pics...
my $60 catch can, with a drain back to the block
Charge piping...still gotta get it welded...
And check out my wannabe tony1 battery mount! Thanks for the idea tony!
Now, I just need to save up a couple bucks to get a radiator.
my $60 catch can, with a drain back to the block
Charge piping...still gotta get it welded...
And check out my wannabe tony1 battery mount! Thanks for the idea tony!
Now, I just need to save up a couple bucks to get a radiator.
#3
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thos battery locations work killer in EFs but i cant do that **** on my EG, sucks ***!
also if you take some thin vacuum line or door molding and run it around that hole for your charge piping, it wont vibrate and beat it to **** when the engine rocks around, ran into that one too
looks good
also if you take some thin vacuum line or door molding and run it around that hole for your charge piping, it wont vibrate and beat it to **** when the engine rocks around, ran into that one too
looks good
#5
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Re: (mrbsponge)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrbsponge »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thos battery locations work killer in EFs but i cant do that **** on my EG, sucks ***!
also if you take some thin vacuum line or door molding and run it around that hole for your charge piping, it wont vibrate and beat it to **** when the engine rocks around, ran into that one too
looks good</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks! edit: I was thinking the wrong part of the piping. However, I will definetly do that! I don't want the chassis to wrub a hole in the aluminum charge piping either! That **** is expensive!
Modified by Bryson at 12:12 AM 4/21/2006
also if you take some thin vacuum line or door molding and run it around that hole for your charge piping, it wont vibrate and beat it to **** when the engine rocks around, ran into that one too
looks good</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks! edit: I was thinking the wrong part of the piping. However, I will definetly do that! I don't want the chassis to wrub a hole in the aluminum charge piping either! That **** is expensive!
Modified by Bryson at 12:12 AM 4/21/2006
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#8
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how hard was it to cut thru the driver side plate where the windshield washer fluid was located ??
that chunk of metal looked pretty damn thick on my crx when i was trying to do my charge pipes
my crx one looks alot thicker then this pic
that chunk of metal looked pretty damn thick on my crx when i was trying to do my charge pipes
my crx one looks alot thicker then this pic
#9
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Thanks guys!
Blackcrx, it is a CRX chassis (just to clarify). it's fairly thick, but it only took a minute or 2 with a hole saw on my drill.
Blackcrx, it is a CRX chassis (just to clarify). it's fairly thick, but it only took a minute or 2 with a hole saw on my drill.
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Re: (Bryson)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bryson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks guys!
Blackcrx, it is a CRX chassis (just to clarify). it's fairly thick, but it only took a minute or 2 with a hole saw on my drill. </TD></TR></TABLE>
damn are you seroius ??
thats it ??
**** i geuss i should have tried that first, i hacked the **** out of my rebar and finally scrapped the rebar all together just so i can route the charge pipes
thanx for the info man, and keep us posted on your progress
Blackcrx, it is a CRX chassis (just to clarify). it's fairly thick, but it only took a minute or 2 with a hole saw on my drill. </TD></TR></TABLE>
damn are you seroius ??
thats it ??
**** i geuss i should have tried that first, i hacked the **** out of my rebar and finally scrapped the rebar all together just so i can route the charge pipes
thanx for the info man, and keep us posted on your progress
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are you "boxing" that hole bryson? (stick a tube through it and weld it in..)
just curious...... looks plenty strong already...
i've thought about running mine that way, but i've never done a setup that way yet. now that i know others do it, i'll probably do it
just curious...... looks plenty strong already...
i've thought about running mine that way, but i've never done a setup that way yet. now that i know others do it, i'll probably do it
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Re: (LostSolVTEC)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redzcstandardhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">SWEET. looks great man.</TD></TR></TABLE>
#16
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Re: (BlackCRX)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlackCRX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
damn are you seroius ??
thats it ??
**** i geuss i should have tried that first, i hacked the **** out of my rebar and finally scrapped the rebar all together just so i can route the charge pipes
thanx for the info man, and keep us posted on your progress[/QUOTE
Hehe yup. Hole saws work great. You just have to make sure you wear hearing protection because they are Fing LOUD!
[QUOTE=redzcstandardhatch]are you "boxing" that hole bryson? (stick a tube through it and weld it in..)
just curious...... looks plenty strong already...
i've thought about running mine that way, but i've never done a setup that way yet. now that i know others do it, i'll probably do it</TD></TR></TABLE>
Probubly not. I will most likely just paint the bare metal, and then stick on some rubber to cover up the edges.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by undercoverdc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks really good. where did u get that 60 dollar catch can?! </TD></TR></TABLE>
I got it locally at a place called ontrack performance. I can't remember the company who makes it though, but I'll find out. It's baffled and everything too!
damn are you seroius ??
thats it ??
**** i geuss i should have tried that first, i hacked the **** out of my rebar and finally scrapped the rebar all together just so i can route the charge pipes
thanx for the info man, and keep us posted on your progress[/QUOTE
Hehe yup. Hole saws work great. You just have to make sure you wear hearing protection because they are Fing LOUD!
[QUOTE=redzcstandardhatch]are you "boxing" that hole bryson? (stick a tube through it and weld it in..)
just curious...... looks plenty strong already...
i've thought about running mine that way, but i've never done a setup that way yet. now that i know others do it, i'll probably do it</TD></TR></TABLE>
Probubly not. I will most likely just paint the bare metal, and then stick on some rubber to cover up the edges.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by undercoverdc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks really good. where did u get that 60 dollar catch can?! </TD></TR></TABLE>
I got it locally at a place called ontrack performance. I can't remember the company who makes it though, but I'll find out. It's baffled and everything too!
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Re: (redzcstandardhatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redzcstandardhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you "boxing" that hole bryson? (stick a tube through it and weld it in..)
just curious...... looks plenty strong already...
i've thought about running mine that way, but i've never done a setup that way yet. now that i know others do it, i'll probably do it</TD></TR></TABLE>
same way i ran mine, used a 3" holesaw... works great for topmount setup's in the ef chassis.
setup looks good man
just curious...... looks plenty strong already...
i've thought about running mine that way, but i've never done a setup that way yet. now that i know others do it, i'll probably do it</TD></TR></TABLE>
same way i ran mine, used a 3" holesaw... works great for topmount setup's in the ef chassis.
setup looks good man
#20
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Re: (speeddave)
Looks killer!
I like the turbo intake tube, I bet that will lower your intake temps pretty well.
Why's your throttle cable like that though?
I like the battery mounting position, I might have to do that some day.
I like the turbo intake tube, I bet that will lower your intake temps pretty well.
Why's your throttle cable like that though?
I like the battery mounting position, I might have to do that some day.
#22
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Re: (speeddave)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by speeddave »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
same way i ran mine, used a 3" holesaw... works great for topmount setup's in the ef chassis.
setup looks good man </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks man
Yeah, I'm surprised that more EF guys don't run it like this.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ1 wilcox »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks killer!
I like the turbo intake tube, I bet that will lower your intake temps pretty well.
Why's your throttle cable like that though?
I like the battery mounting position, I might have to do that some day. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm still using the rediculously long DX throtal cable. It works, so why change it...hehe.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MrTodd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How exactly do you have your catch can routed?
Looks good </TD></TR></TABLE>
The can has 2 side fittings, and one bottom fitting. I have 2 block fittings (non-check valve), both of which are connected too the side fittings. Then the drain tube from the bottom fitting on the can is T'd into the closest block fitting. It's all down hill from the can...
same way i ran mine, used a 3" holesaw... works great for topmount setup's in the ef chassis.
setup looks good man </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks man
Yeah, I'm surprised that more EF guys don't run it like this.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ1 wilcox »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks killer!
I like the turbo intake tube, I bet that will lower your intake temps pretty well.
Why's your throttle cable like that though?
I like the battery mounting position, I might have to do that some day. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm still using the rediculously long DX throtal cable. It works, so why change it...hehe.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MrTodd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How exactly do you have your catch can routed?
Looks good </TD></TR></TABLE>
The can has 2 side fittings, and one bottom fitting. I have 2 block fittings (non-check valve), both of which are connected too the side fittings. Then the drain tube from the bottom fitting on the can is T'd into the closest block fitting. It's all down hill from the can...
#23
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Re: (mrbsponge)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrbsponge »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thos battery locations work killer in EFs but i cant do that **** on my EG, sucks ***!
also if you take some thin vacuum line or door molding and run it around that hole for your charge piping, it wont vibrate and beat it to **** when the engine rocks around, ran into that one too
looks good</TD></TR></TABLE>
I took your advice today man!
It could probubly look a little better, but it should do its job.
And a new manifold pic
also if you take some thin vacuum line or door molding and run it around that hole for your charge piping, it wont vibrate and beat it to **** when the engine rocks around, ran into that one too
looks good</TD></TR></TABLE>
I took your advice today man!
It could probubly look a little better, but it should do its job.
And a new manifold pic
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