sharkcohen

Current setup:
H22 JRSC, 9 psi
550 cc injectors, stock fuel pressure
EFI Systems PMS
J&S V2 (using boost timing retard function)
NGK R5672A-8, gapped at .028
Tech Edge V1.5

I installed this last fall, and all through the cold season things went GREAT. Now that the air has warmed up considerably, I find myself dialing in more and more boost retard on the J&S. I've been told by J&S that 12 oclock on the rate dial is 1 deg/psi, and clockwise from that is higher, 2 deg max. I have it set near 3 oclock now. It runs terrible and I am still getting part throttle detonation throughout the powerband despite a/f numbers 12:1 or richer. I don't even think I'm looking for an answer with this post, I know what the problem is ---> high intake temps. But damn, I never thought I'd be dialing in near 2 degrees/psi and still have problems with detonation.

I think it's time to buy a 50 gallon drum of toluene. CA 91 octane fuel certainly isn't helping right now.

T-sohctec

no IC + 91 pump + a hot day= detonation.


Try and do the tolulene thing that should help you out.

If not then you would have an excuse to get an aftercooler.

sharkcohen

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by T-sohctec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If not then you would have an excuse to get an aftercooler. </TD></TR></TABLE>
No doubt to that, problem is no one makes one for the H22 JRSC If someone did I would buy it in a heartbeat.

JT

Have you tried the TPS mod? It's very effective to eliminate part throttle detonation for JRSC setup.

Drew Peacock

Just turn down the boost... J/K ah the joys of turbos Goodluck

sharkcohen

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you tried the TPS mod? It's very effective to eliminate part throttle detonation for JRSC setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wouldn't be necessary in my case. The J&S V2 MAP voltage clamp throws the ecu into open loop during boost. Even if I wasn't running that, I would then be using the stock JR "ems"/black box/POS that comes with the H22 (prelude) kit which incorporates the TPS mod in it. Also, by part throttle I mean throughout the powerband, not tip in. It really is a function of the intake temps. I didn't have this problem at all during winter, and I had the boost retard down well below 1 deg/psi at that time.


Modified by sharkcohen at 6:24 AM 5/29/2003


Modified by sharkcohen at 6:24 AM 5/29/2003

sharkcohen

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbozxi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just turn down the boost... J/K ah the joys of turbos Goodluck</TD></TR></TABLE>
Simple as swapping back my 6 psi pulley, takes five minutes, but what would be the fun in that

sharkcohen

For the amusement of all (especially the turbo crowd):

Sonny

I feel your pain. This was my old car at 6 psi on a summer day.



To figure out how much the J&S is retarding, you can check the voltage on the wiper for the retard rate.

Voltage 0.00, Retard Rate 0.00 deg/psi
Voltage 0.05, Retard Rate 0.04 deg/psi
Voltage 0.10, Retard Rate 0.08 deg/psi
Voltage 0.15, Retard Rate 0.12 deg/psi
Voltage 0.20, Retard Rate 0.16 deg/psi
Voltage 0.25, Retard Rate 0.20 deg/psi
Voltage 0.30, Retard Rate 0.24 deg/psi
Voltage 0.35, Retard Rate 0.27 deg/psi
Voltage 0.40, Retard Rate 0.31 deg/psi
Voltage 0.45, Retard Rate 0.35 deg/psi
Voltage 0.50, Retard Rate 0.39 deg/psi
Voltage 0.55, Retard Rate 0.43 deg/psi
Voltage 0.60, Retard Rate 0.47 deg/psi
Voltage 0.65, Retard Rate 0.51 deg/psi
Voltage 0.70, Retard Rate 0.55 deg/psi
Voltage 0.75, Retard Rate 0.59 deg/psi
Voltage 0.80, Retard Rate 0.63 deg/psi
Voltage 0.85, Retard Rate 0.67 deg/psi
Voltage 0.90, Retard Rate 0.71 deg/psi
Voltage 0.95, Retard Rate 0.75 deg/psi
Voltage 1.00, Retard Rate 0.78 deg/psi
Voltage 1.05, Retard Rate 0.82 deg/psi
Voltage 1.10, Retard Rate 0.86 deg/psi
Voltage 1.15, Retard Rate 0.90 deg/psi
Voltage 1.20, Retard Rate 0.94 deg/psi
Voltage 1.25, Retard Rate 0.98 deg/psi
Voltage 1.30, Retard Rate 1.02 deg/psi
Voltage 1.35, Retard Rate 1.06 deg/psi
Voltage 1.40, Retard Rate 1.10 deg/psi
Voltage 1.45, Retard Rate 1.14 deg/psi
Voltage 1.50, Retard Rate 1.18 deg/psi
Voltage 1.55, Retard Rate 1.22 deg/psi
Voltage 1.60, Retard Rate 1.25 deg/psi
Voltage 1.65, Retard Rate 1.29 deg/psi
Voltage 1.70, Retard Rate 1.33 deg/psi
Voltage 1.75, Retard Rate 1.37 deg/psi
Voltage 1.80, Retard Rate 1.41 deg/psi
Voltage 1.85, Retard Rate 1.45 deg/psi
Voltage 1.90, Retard Rate 1.49 deg/psi
Voltage 1.95, Retard Rate 1.53 deg/psi
Voltage 2.00, Retard Rate 1.57 deg/psi
Voltage 2.05, Retard Rate 1.61 deg/psi
Voltage 2.10, Retard Rate 1.65 deg/psi
Voltage 2.15, Retard Rate 1.69 deg/psi
Voltage 2.20, Retard Rate 1.73 deg/psi
Voltage 2.25, Retard Rate 1.76 deg/psi
Voltage 2.30, Retard Rate 1.80 deg/psi
Voltage 2.35, Retard Rate 1.84 deg/psi
Voltage 2.40, Retard Rate 1.88 deg/psi
Voltage 2.45, Retard Rate 1.92 deg/psi
Voltage 2.50, Retard Rate 1.96 deg/psi
Voltage 2.55, Retard Rate 2.00 deg/psi

With my J&S Ultra v.2, I don't think I ever ran more than .53 deg/psi. However, you're running the same size blower (M62) on a much larger engine so it has to spin a lot faster to generate the same amount of boost.

After I switched to a Hondata setup, I sold the Ultra v.2 and got a Classic Safeguard. It was an awesome combo for the street. It's what is going in the CRX.

Sonny

sharkcohen

Thanks for that info, Sonny, it is appreciated.

92sleepR

You might want to try the Aquamist water injection kit. I have it on my 8 PSI B18C1 hybrid and it made a real difference. 200+ without the water, less than 150 with it. This is measured from an autometer intake temp gauge plugged directly into the manifold.

Mike

sharkcohen

I have considered water/alcohol injection. The problem is on the lude kit there is no room between the blower and the intake up top, and there is precious little room on the underside of the manifold.

I need to get onto a dyno, I'm becoming suspicious that my Tech Edge is not reading correclty and displaying richer than it really is during boost (I have calibrated it properly). Last night I richened up the boost tables and was able to get my timing retard down to about .9 deg/psi with no issues.