Frozen E

Ok, this is my second attempt at making a basemap for my car. The setup I'm running is:

Stock B16A2
Stock injectors
Stock plugs
Stock MAP
Walbro 255 pump
AEM FPR
AEM fuel rail
Inlinepro manifold
Master Turbo 57 trim
2.5" downpipe
2.5" carsound cat going straight out the back (no muffler)
Tial wastegate (.5 bar spring)
Tial BOV
Golden Eagle vacuum manifold
Chipped P72
PLX M-500 AFR
Autometer boost, fuel, oil, egt gauges
Uberdata 1.66

I'm running 38psi of fuel pressure with the vacuum attached
Timing is stock
No boost controller, just letting the wastegate do it's thing

I made a basemap. The idle is a bit high on a cold engine on first startup (about 2,100 RPM). This slows down to about 1200 or so when the engine warms up. I never went above 4K with the stock ECU, but with the chipped ECU I decided to take it into VTEC range tonight. 1st gear pulls nicely. VTEC kicked in where it was supposed to, broke the tires loose. Shift into 2nd, same thing, I then let off. Everything seems to be running nicely. The AFR never went above 13:1 (high for boost I know, but I hope my RC550's can fix that). Which is where you guys come into play.

Can some of you big time uberdata guys take a look at my basemap for me and give me some pointers as to what might be wrong? Let me know what could use a bit of tweaking to make it run safer. Also if you have some spare time see if you guys could put together a basemap for me that'll run my 550's.
I'd REALLY appreciate this. I'm going to try to do a TON of reading up on Uberdata tuning this weekend, but it's hard to find good honda specific info.
SO I figured this would be a great place to start. Anyway, here's a link to my basemap file. See what you guys can do for me.
http://www.myplacetoputstuff.c...2.bin
Thanks a lot

SOHC_MShue

i checked out your basemap and from what i can tell it looks fine. The reason you are running a 13:1 afr though is probably because you are maxing out your stock injectors. I would definantely not get into boost very hard with the stock injectors and uberdata. You may want to get an fmu or something until you can get some larger injectors in there.

Turbogixxer

Few things. Start your Boost fuel Eff. alittle higher (120 or so).

As for your 550, just to the injectors calc. Set it to the right numbers (old numbers to your stock injectors/fuel pressure and new to your new size and FP).

What PSI of boost you running?

Colder plugs would help too.

Frozen E

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Few things. Start your Boost fuel Eff. alittle higher (120 or so).

As for your 550, just to the injectors calc. Set it to the right numbers (old numbers to your stock injectors/fuel pressure and new to your new size and FP).

What PSI of boost you running?

Colder plugs would help too.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Fuel eff - easy fix. Thank you
As far asthe other thing you're talking about I can't really make heads or tails out of that. Mind explaining a bit more. Maybe give me an example?

And right now she's running off the Tial wastegate spring which has a .5 Bar spring.

Keep 'em coming guys. I'm always up for more info and want to learn as much as possible.

blackeg

the colder plugs refers to spark plugs that run at a cooler heat range. this helps to prevent preignition. for instance, if your car takes a 5 heat range with an ngk plug, you might want to get a 6 or 7 heat range plug, as previously said to help prevent preignition and keep things running slightly cooler. for my old turbo setup, i ran 2 heat range colder plugs, so they were ngk bkr7e. also, when you gap them, do it smaller than your manual might say, gap to like .30 to start. this will help prevent against the spark being "blown out". hope this helped

Frozen E

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the colder plugs refers to spark plugs that run at a cooler heat range. this helps to prevent preignition. for instance, if your car takes a 5 heat range with an ngk plug, you might want to get a 6 or 7 heat range plug, as previously said to help prevent preignition and keep things running slightly cooler. for my old turbo setup, i ran 2 heat range colder plugs, so they were ngk bkr7e. also, when you gap them, do it smaller than your manual might say, gap to like .30 to start. this will help prevent against the spark being "blown out". hope this helped</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ordering some right now.

Now about that injector stuff you were talking about.......

SOHC_MShue

when he sais to change the injectors calc just go to miscelaneous and put in 550 for the new injectors and type in whatever fuel pressure your at. Hit apply and it will then scale all your fuel values for the 550's. It will also give you a suggested value for your fuel modifiers. Add about 10% to that number and put it in for TPS Enrich and Cold Enrich and click enable.

Turbogixxer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC_MShue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when he sais to change the injectors calc just go to miscelaneous and put in 550 for the new injectors and type in whatever fuel pressure your at. Hit apply and it will then scale all your fuel values for the 550's. It will also give you a suggested value for your fuel modifiers. Add about 10% to that number and put it in for TPS Enrich and Cold Enrich and click enable.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Frozen E

how about the "Main Enrich" setting? What's that control? Should I leave it set at 100 even with the 550 map?

Turbogixxer

run the suggested value

SOHC_MShue

i'm not entirely sure what main enrich does and i don't think too many people have a good idea of what its for...even on the uberdata forum. I've seen people just change the first two and leave the main enrich at 100. What the fuel modifiers are doing is for instance with TPS Enrich if you dumped in 100% which is the normal value of fuel with stock injectors then when you stepped on the gas you would bog and run super rich because your 550's would dumb in a bunch of fuel. The lower value leans that amount out so it runs normal like it did with the stock injectors.

raene

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC_MShue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm not entirely sure what main enrich does and i don't think too many people have a good idea of what its for...even on the uberdata forum. I've seen people just change the first two and leave the main enrich at 100. What the fuel modifiers are doing is for instance with TPS Enrich if you dumped in 100% which is the normal value of fuel with stock injectors then when you stepped on the gas you would bog and run super rich because your 550's would dumb in a bunch of fuel. The lower value leans that amount out so it runs normal like it did with the stock injectors.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The main enrichment is evidently a global scalar that is applied to the entire fuel map. Kinda like multiplying every value on the map by x percent before it goes to the injector.

Frozen E

So can anybody guess why the basemap I gave you guys an example of is holding my AFR on cold startup at about 11:1 and keeps the idle around 2200-2500RPM?

Frozen E

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raene &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The main enrichment is evidently a global scalar that is applied to the entire fuel map. Kinda like multiplying every value on the map by x percent before it goes to the injector.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So if I kept it at 100% it should run off whatever the maps say it is? Or does it double what the maps say since it's at 100%?

raene

It will run off whatever the maps say. If you wanted something like 60%, you would set it to 60.

From what I understand, anyway. I'm not sure if setting it to 1 would give you 1%, or 1% of some scalar applied to the map, globally. I just have heard that that's how it operates, I cannot verify.

It's idling in the 11s because it's hella rich. To lower the cold idle, raise the 24" column values up by like 400%. Set to them something like 30 at 750 tapering upwards to 60 at 8k. That should lower your cold idle nicely. The engine draws more vacuum when it's cold idling in my experience so it hits those columns. I don't know why the Uber basemaps are always so lean in those columns; the afrs result in like 20:1 if you drive in those zones.