Cyberdx16

ok i recently chipped my p28 and had someone burn me a chip. im getting a CEL now, and i've narrowed it down to 2 problems that everyone has been telling. Either the chip was burned wrong because the bin i used was made in 1.7 but may have been burned in 1.7, 1.66 or, 1.63 i dont know. Or it maybe my soldering which is what im thinking. It is acctually pretty shitty soldering but i desoldered the jumper and the CEL is gone and works fine as a stock p28. heres some pics.


thats the back of 74HC373


thats the top... is this the right 74HC373??



heres where the jumper is and resistor. Looks like $hit there


heres the 28 pin-out

Tell me what u guys think??


Modified by Cyberdx16 at 7:24 PM 10/22/2004


Modified by Cyberdx16 at 7:27 PM 10/22/2004

raene

I might see a prob...

On the 74HC373 you can see one of the top legs in the pic doesn't have the solder penetrating all the way through the hole. You have to fill both sides of the hole and let the solder fill the hole completely or else the thing won't work

92BlackSi

Wow you hacker! I would take that to an electronics shop and have them clean it up and do it properly. Probably cost ya $10 at most.

toolowsol

Yeah that looks pretty bad, clean it up with some alcohol first, then you might actually be able to see your solder.... I would guess your burn is the culprit, but who knows, do you have a known good chip to test?

Cyberdx16

as of now no

Snail Tuning

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raene &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I might see a prob...

On the 74HC373 you can see one of the top legs in the pic doesn't have the solder penetrating all the way through the hole. You have to fill both sides of the hole and let the solder fill the hole completely or else the thing won't work </TD></TR></TABLE>

just what i was ganna say. if u look near the middle of the chip you can see where their is no soder by the legs on the board. need alittle more soder in their.

ATS*Mark

cant really tell from the pics but it looks like you might have a couple cold joints....

utahbmx

get some flux...it will help the solder flow better into the holes then use alcohol and clean it up!!....also make sure your gun is not to hot if this is your first time.

omahaturbocivic

The top right pin on the socket and the right pin on the capacitor in the top right both look like the solder may have splattered or run over onto other traces which may or may not have penetrated that glue/sealer stuff they put on the board and created a short. Just lightly run some preheated braid over it real quick to clean it up. Just look them all over for shorts and if any look to be in question you can check with an ohmmeter to see if it is indeed shorted. I have seen worse solder jobs actually work fine.

Cyphear

try re-burning the chip or putting the chip in another ECU. make sure he is burning the chip right (he can't use the stock LS basmap in recent versions or he will get this).

Jaker

The through hole solder stuff is not the problem. The solder pads on both sides of the board are connected by some wire wrap in the core of the board. It wouldn't hurt to add some solder on teh top sode of the board, but be carefull to not overheat the 74HC373, as they are pretty sensitive to heat and you could burn out the chip.

I'd say its the chip burn.

Dr Pooface

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jaker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The through hole solder stuff is not the problem. The solder pads on both sides of the board are connected by some wire wrap in the core of the board.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good info, I did not know that.

shortyz

so everytime u want a new tune your gonna resolder the chip?

put a zif in there if its possible?

Calvinator

I say its the chip. When I first got my ecu chipped. I thought it was the soldiering at first, but it ended up being a bad chip. If you can, barrow a friends chipped ecu and put your chip inside. If it throws a code, then you know its your chip. Good luck.

dester223

DAMN, get a 28 pin socket so you can easily take that chip out to retune and everything.

Also, I've seen some people OVERHEAT the chips when they solder it, which can erase or damage the memory.

.nate

def solderbridges there

Freemantle

You need a zif socket in there anyway. I used one of off moates and a blue spacer. It works fine for my p06. Your soldering needs a little help, you should probably consider that a do-over. Clean it up with some alcohol and try to hit it again.

Also the Stock LS bin in the new 1.7 is fine. No CEL in my car.

Cyberdx16

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dester223 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">DAMN, get a 28 pin socket so you can easily take that chip out to retune and everything.

Also, I've seen some people OVERHEAT the chips when they solder it, which can erase or damage the memory.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i am using a 28 pin socket with a zif to clear things up

raene

I dunno if I agree with you there Jacques, I had to resolder my board because the first time I did it I didn't get enough solder penetration Every time the board got to about 20 deg Celsius, it would cut out and then restart.

ForcedAir

Whats the wattage of the iron you're using? And is that a flux cored solder you're using? A proper solder joint should be shiney and not a "mound" but rather a pyramid type of shape to it.

DONT use excess solder left on the solder iron tip (from the last joint you made) for the next. Give the iron a little "flick" if you dont have a wet sponge to clean the tip.

dester223

I thought I saw a picture with the 28 pin 29c256 or 27c256 soldered on the board before.......

tilt

Did you turn off Knock Sensor in the uberdata settings? You will get a solid cell if you did not because P28 does not support KS.

Tactic$

You will not melt through the solder mask as long as you dont rest your gun on it.
Some one said that you dont need solder on both sides..... he is correct. Circut boards (multi-layer only) have a feature called via's. these are the holes on your circut board. There are plated with copper all the way through. (think if it as a elevator for the ecu signal) This hole (or via) transmits the data through the other layers of the board that go to other components.

As far as the cold joints go, yes, i can see some. Like suggested, use some flux.

I wouldnt worry too much about the solder splatter on the board. If in doubt, just grab a ohm meter and jump the two points.

I repaired circut boards for a major circut board manufacturer. The single most important thing they taught us was ALWAYS USE A CIRCUT TESTER AFTER REPAIR!!!

showtymers619

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tactic$ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ALWAYS USE A CIRCUT TESTER AFTER REPAIR!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>


how about a spell checker? LOL i just had to put that one in