Txdragon

I may be overthinking again. Lol. I know the new setup limiting factors would be the fuel pump and injectors. The turbo is good to 550 and I honestly think I'll see between 450 and 500 before I decide to say, "woah, that's plenty!"
Now as a flex option, Neptune does support this. I can switch maps based on fuel. We are moving into our new place before too long and I'm not sure what's available out there for E85 yet, so I may need to have it tuned on both. **shrug**

Txdragon

I figured 9lb as it is heavier than the one on it now, which came in at 8. It was supposed to be 10, but I weighed it twice on 2 different scales and it came in at 8.3 and 8.5. Driveability hasn't been as harsh as I'd expected.

Autoworks

A stock Z6 flywheel is 18lbs. I'd try to get back closer to that weight with the 11lb flywheel.

Txdragon

Not bad then. I had a B7 before the Z6 and the flywheel on that was a whopping 22 lbs. The 8 lb unit now replaced it. Lol.

NVturbo

You DIDN'T have to hardwire it. You basically ghetto rigged it and it looks like ***.

Txdragon

I did. The pins were not in my harness plugs. I pinned them then soldered and ran the wires. While it may LOOK like ***, I don't give a ****! It's functional... The whole car looks like *** but runs VERY well.

2kdrift

Where the pins present on the ecu itself?

most re-pin the ecu harness to skip the soldering step...and skip repinning the shock tower. Unless you want it super clean, Just make your own mini harness directly to the solenoid.

live and learn I guess

not agreeing with such rude comments just putting the correct info out there

Txdragon

Yeah, the pins were there in the ecu only but no wires at all in the harness or shock tower. The wires I extended from the pins were for the vtec and vtec oil pressure. I ended up getting rid of the oil pressure wire entirely because i managed to break the stupid sensor connector on the solenoid when I put the engine in /facepalm... But.. I just disabled oil pressure check in Neptune, so it all worked out.
Anywho.. I ran a wire so the pigtail could be connected and soldered and even used legit harness pins to work the shock tower connectors.That wire was done then ran through the firewall to the ecu. It's all tucked and stashed in it's natural habitat in the kick panel, under the carpet. So, aesthetics are really stock except under the hood. I may have **tried harder** to tuck the vtec wire to another portion of harness? ****'s sake, you can't even see the extension of the wire I added to the ecu while it's plugged in and the carpet peeled back. Lol!

Function>Form in my book. It's solid and works.

2kdrift

Yeah I could care less about what the inside of the ecu looks like. Repinning is just the correct way to do it. The way it was designed from the factory

Txdragon

Well.. Dropped in the 59300, had some user install issues to iron out then finally got it right.. On the first AWESOME test drive, my timing belt managed to jump a couple teeth and I bent some valves. Sigh.. Stopped after the cylinder 1 leakdown revealed leaking through intake. Not sure if others are bent, not sure yet if any further damage done. I haven't removed the head yet. Sigh. New build parts haven't been ordered yet, but it was in the works. I'm hoping all I need to do is rebuild the head.. THAT I can do right now.

Aradin

Ouch. Sorry to hear.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

EEK! My condolences

Txdragon

Head coming off today. Crossing my fingers I haven't gouged any pistons.. I've tried to do some figuring on valve to piston clearance without the clay procedure and I just don't think I'm capable. Everything SHOULD be okay to run this cam but, I obviously have a very small window of error. The T-belt only slipped by 3 teeth and I've seen much worse on stock cam with no ill effect other than no start.

2x0

Sucks to see this setback after how far you've come. But hopefully you'll be back on your feet soon. Any idea what caused the belt slippage?

Txdragon

the cam seal was a little loose. It wasn't just purchased, but was new.. <3 months and not physically damaged in any way. On that drive, I noticed I lost a TON of oil through the cam seal area. My powers of deduction say this was my culprit. Oil-soaked belt and gears gave the proper recipe for disaster. Hind sight being 20/20, it may have been a brighter idea to put on a fresh seal. Sucks when big stuff like this arises from overlooking something that seems SOOOOO insignificant.

2x0

Ah dang. I hear ya. Meanwhile it seems like everyone else gets away with murder using old or cheap parts on their builds lol

Txdragon

I hear ya. I feel like a total noob to reuse an item like this and probably deserve the outcome. Lol

2x0

I suppose for normal guys like you and I who have a lot vested in one build, it is worth it to go the extra mile and use all quality and new parts where possible. I know I always guilt myself into buying the $60 oem ball joints or $30 oem seals

Just sucks watching people like boostedboiz throw really cheap and shitty parts at their cars all day long because they don't care if it breaks.

Txdragon

So the weather was finally nice enough today to get some exploratory surgery done. Turns out I blew the head gasket. Had coolant all in the #2 exhaust runner as well as on the plug. Odd that this happened. I say it's the typical Honda temper tantrum: get something done, then something else breaks.

Txdragon

Well.. This was unexpected.. #1 and #3. Evidently I've found the limitations of NPR cast pistons..

It is clear where the intake valves made contact when the time jumped. I'm curious if that contributed to the San Andreas fault that developed in my piston? I see contact on all of em but the only pistons that cracked were 1 and 3. Both cracks look identical and parallel to the wrist pin. Sigh..

Autoworks

oh wow...that's impressive (in its own way). MY first thought would be that it isn't just the contact, but the "frequency" that it may have contacted it at. As in just the contact alone would chip a piston/leave the indention...but it wouldn't split it. By frequency, I mean (for example) you can tap it at the right time, place, speed and cause a catastrophic reaction (ie the crack went through the weakest part of the piston and didn't begin near the contact spot). I'd be curious to see if the pistons are flat across the top edge to edge measuring across the piston IN to EX along with measuring how thin the surface of the piston is. Is there any scoring on the cyl wall?

Txdragon

Thins was the first run with the 59300 installed. I drove it a total of 1/4 mile (down to the end of my road and back) when it went boom. I got on it one good time, going into VTEC. My datalog registered 11.2psi boost and a max rpm of 5960 before death. Throttle was 45%, Ignition timing was 20° and A/F was high 10s. I noticed some scuffing on cyl 2 and cyl 3, they do not look the same though. Cyl 3 could be after the crack but cyl 2 looks like the wrist pin may have been walking. I'll get some pics of that a bit later on. It's not gouged badly, looks like it may have been recent. **shrug**
looks like I may go with 75.5 or 76mm pistons after all. Lol

turboLScrx

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

Txdragon

I knew there was a risk with cast pistons, but all the info I found on NPR was good. I could not find anyone running my particular rod/piston combo either.. Skunk2/NPR, so I was mildly weary there. Other than my choice of turbo kit, this build was solid on paper. I'm definitely going for gusto on the replacements, just trying to decide between Arias, CP, or SRP.
As Autoworks mentioned a bit ago, it seems the valve contact may have revealed a weak point in the pistons that might not have been prevalent had the event not happened. I.E. I had machined the valve reliefs before install, etc.. There are just some things we either can't foresee or just straight out overlook that lead to these events. It's all part of the process and I am a strong believer that failure leads to education, then success.