Txdragon's D16Z6 project: I've just boarded the Z6 bandwagon..
#401
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (1)
Re: Txdragon's D16Z6 project: I've just boarded the Z6 bandwagon..
According to the CP spec sheet, my rings should be gapped as follows: (.0050 x 3" bore top, .0055 x 3" bore 2nd)
Top: .015"
2nd: .018"
Oil: .015 - .050"
This sound right? I know they are only guidelines, but getting a feeler for some input on a 350-425 hp range. I didn't look this far into gaps the first time around other than an on the surface glance; I just made sure they landed between .015 and .018. In fact, I didn't need to file the first set at all.
Also, is it "bad" if say, one or more rings ends up with a little more gap? Say I get .015 on 3 top rings but take a bit much off of another and end up at .018? As long as it is within the recommendation (.0050 - .0055 x bore) ?
Top: .015"
2nd: .018"
Oil: .015 - .050"
This sound right? I know they are only guidelines, but getting a feeler for some input on a 350-425 hp range. I didn't look this far into gaps the first time around other than an on the surface glance; I just made sure they landed between .015 and .018. In fact, I didn't need to file the first set at all.
Also, is it "bad" if say, one or more rings ends up with a little more gap? Say I get .015 on 3 top rings but take a bit much off of another and end up at .018? As long as it is within the recommendation (.0050 - .0055 x bore) ?
Yep. Only other thing I'd add is make sure the gapped portion of the ring is in the groove when sliding it down into the compressor sleeve - if you feel any more resistance than you would with the piston in the cylinder, stop and make sure all the rings are in their grooves.
#402
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Txdragon's D16Z6 project: I've just boarded the Z6 bandwagon..
Clutch arrived today. SUPER fast shipping. First impression out of the box is this thing is stout! Can't wait to run it.
#404
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
#405
O.G. triple O.G.
Re: Txdragon's D16Z6 project: I've just boarded the Z6 bandwagon..
Yep. Only other thing I'd add is make sure the gapped portion of the ring is in the groove when sliding it down into the compressor sleeve - if you feel any more resistance than you would with the piston in the cylinder, stop and make sure all the rings are in their grooves.
#406
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Txdragon's D16Z6 project: I've just boarded the Z6 bandwagon..
After doing some reading, I went 0.018" for the top rings and 0.020" for the 2nd rings. I haven't cranked mine yet, though, so take my opinion for what it's worth. From my research, more power generates more heat, the rings expand even further, and you need bigger gaps to prevent the ends from touching in these situations. Of course, too large of a gap and you will get blow by. You could always try calling CP.
Yep. Only other thing I'd add is make sure the gapped portion of the ring is in the groove when sliding it down into the compressor sleeve - if you feel any more resistance than you would with the piston in the cylinder, stop and make sure all the rings are in their grooves.
Yep. Only other thing I'd add is make sure the gapped portion of the ring is in the groove when sliding it down into the compressor sleeve - if you feel any more resistance than you would with the piston in the cylinder, stop and make sure all the rings are in their grooves.
#407
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Txdragon's D16Z6 project: I've just boarded the Z6 bandwagon..
Speaking with CP, they recommended for me:
top gap: .018
2nd gap: .023
Oil gap: .015
Now to get filing.. Any reason I couldn't use a dremel?
top gap: .018
2nd gap: .023
Oil gap: .015
Now to get filing.. Any reason I couldn't use a dremel?
#408
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (1)
Re: Txdragon's D16Z6 project: I've just boarded the Z6 bandwagon..
However you do it, make sure you don't remove too much material (stop and check often), and keep the faces you are filing square. I tried the "file in a vise" method and it was taking forever (the 2nd rings are pretty hard), so I broke down and bought a hand crank ring filer. That was the ticket.
#409
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Txdragon's D16Z6 project: I've just boarded the Z6 bandwagon..
However you do it, make sure you don't remove too much material (stop and check often), and keep the faces you are filing square. I tried the "file in a vise" method and it was taking forever (the 2nd rings are pretty hard), so I broke down and bought a hand crank ring filer. That was the ticket.
#411
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Txdragon's D16Z6 project: I've just boarded the Z6 bandwagon..
On another front, main and rod bearings will be in today. I picked up my plastiguage and will be checking my main clearance by this evening. Hopefully I'm around the 018 mark, we'll see.
Want to also thank DAX and TurboLScrx for helping me look into a piston concern. Thought my P2W was a bit excessive and with a video, they provided some insight to the matter that helped bring on the calm. Thanks again, fellas!
#412
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Txdragon's D16Z6 project: I've just boarded the Z6 bandwagon..
Correct, by definition a 2MS is a stage 5 sprung. It has the heavier duty pressure plate. Only downside, mine being a cable clutch it is pretty hard on the foot and leg. Yours should be much more forgiving.
#414
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Txdragon's D16Z6 project: I've just boarded the Z6 bandwagon..
Raining today so I put the block together in the kitchen. Lol!
Pistons mounted to the rods perfectly. The reconditioning went perfect!
Main clearance at .0020 rod clearance. 0018. Ring gapping went great with the dremel. Top ring at .0018, 2nd .0023, oil .015.. No excessive piston slapping at all. I was worried for nothing! Made sure my tangs were on the exhaust side as well this time around. Don't remember if I did or not before. **Shrug**
Crankshaft rotates nice and smooth by hand. It gave me a bit of resistance last time. I'm happy so far!
Pistons mounted to the rods perfectly. The reconditioning went perfect!
Main clearance at .0020 rod clearance. 0018. Ring gapping went great with the dremel. Top ring at .0018, 2nd .0023, oil .015.. No excessive piston slapping at all. I was worried for nothing! Made sure my tangs were on the exhaust side as well this time around. Don't remember if I did or not before. **Shrug**
Crankshaft rotates nice and smooth by hand. It gave me a bit of resistance last time. I'm happy so far!
#416
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Txdragon's D16Z6 project: I've just boarded the Z6 bandwagon..
#418
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Txdragon's D16Z6 project: I've just boarded the Z6 bandwagon..
Here was the setup for filing the rings to spec. The base for the dremel made a good sturdy hold. Set it on 4 and just went to town. Filed the top and second rings in 30 minutes time; including setup!
#420
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
#421
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Txdragon's D16Z6 project: I've just boarded the Z6 bandwagon..
Well.. Pulled the oil pump apart to clean and check out and it seems my pressure valve is stuck closed. Pulled the plug and spring and the little piston will not come out. Sigh.. guess it could be worse and stuck open! I'll be looking for another oil pump now.
#423
Re: Txdragon's D16Z6 project: I've just boarded the Z6 bandwagon..
I don’t know if they make this for the d series but acl high pressure oil pumps are great. Had one on my b series and it made great pressure reliably.
#424
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Txdragon's D16Z6 project: I've just boarded the Z6 bandwagon..
I was able to get the pump off my spare block and it came apart with ease. Got it ported now, gonna breathe a little better as the project moves forward!
#425
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (1)
Re: Txdragon's D16Z6 project: I've just boarded the Z6 bandwagon..
I used Melling on my wife's Accord and it fit perfect. I also used Melling on my D16 build and the only thing that kind of bugged was the surface that the oil pan gasket sits against on the pump was a little out of plane with the bottom of the block. I haven't run the engine yet so don't know for sure that it won't leak, but I put some sealant on the joint to smooth the transition, so I'm not expecting it to.