sikefcrx89

iTrader: (1)

Once enough time is on the head they will "wear in" to a degree. But metal expands when heated. so your little leak will become bigger until wear time..

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Have them do a pressure test to start. My shop charges $25. That will tell the quality of the seal. If you pay for the valve job, my understanding is that they'll actually ream the seats and then lap them to fit the valve.

Txdragon

ACL bearings ordered and should be here Wednesday. Gonna give them a try. Clevite served me pretty well, the wear was very VERY little except for the problem cylinders, but I think I'll try some ACL this time.

Txdragon

Ok so, looks like my parts list is complete. Last 2 items needed are torque mounts and clutch kit. I'm going with Action clutch. Good pricing and reportedly comparable to comp and ACT in quality, performance, and feel. I wasn't too excited to read that the competition clutch springs like to go AWOL and ACT is harder on the wallet than I want to be right now. I read up on Action clutches (shout to Ohisofly for their mention) and was seemingly surprised to see that one of HT's own got that off the ground. Been around since 2002 and it seemed as if there wasn't a ton written about them recently, yet the company is still rolling strong. Saw many videos available. Anywho. From what I did read, I'm giving them a go. Stage 3 1ms clutch in the crosshairs. I figure that'll do well to hold me to about 375 - 380.
Block and rods should be done today. I'm excited to see it!

K7-1Ktrevor

Txdragon

I got the purple tube. It's currently in the shed, so I'm not sure of it's medium or fine. By feel, it seemed pretty fine **shrug**
I'm seriously considering taking it to the machine shop though. I have put it all together already and no way to get the springs off and back on without fuss, I returned the valve spring compressor because it was too big to use as intended. I just lapped by hand until it stopped "grinding". Machinist says that's about the way to do it. He still suggests we cut the seats and valves. I think I'll have it pressure tested as is and pending results, make my determination. Ultimately, I don't want it leaking at all but, if there's an "acceptable" level and I'm in it, I suppose the seat cutting can wait til a later time. On another note, I've read that valve lapping is kinda obsolete. Most times, lapping is usually done after the machining is done, IF it's necessary to do it.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

If you do end up wanting to take the springs out yourself, I can't recommend enough the Lisle valve keeper tool. It's about the size of a screwdriver, costs $30, and worked really good for me when removing and installing springs/retainers/keepers.

sikefcrx89

iTrader: (1)

This.. Works as intended. I can take a picture of the part number in the morning,but for the price he gave you. You will have to decide how much "Your" time is worth..

Txdragon

How's this work for getting them back on?

I'm really fighting with this one because of the level of crap it's gonna be getting it back apart again myself vs paying them to do it. I went over my parts list since the revamp began and am at just under 2700 bucks. The only build parts left for me to upgrade are the turbo, mani, downpipe, and wastegate.

Ordered the clutch and torque mounts and added prothane shifter bushings to the list. Should have everything by Friday and weather looks good so far for getting her back together next weekend!

turboLScrx

Txdragon

I'm at 2700 this round, about 6k total.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Pretty damn easy, both removal and installation, especially with the head off the block. It's the Lisle model 36200, I got mine on Amazon. I think there are some YouTube videos of it in action, but I didn't fully understand it until I used it for myself.

turboLScrx

DaX

iTrader: (1)

yes, soo depressing. I've spent a lot and still have a long way to go. I am pretty sure I will be able to get all the supporting systems finished this year (fuel, exhaust, etc.), but whether or not I can swing the final piece (turbo kit and tuning) will depend on tax return, bonus, and how well my side biz does this year. Fingers crossed!

sikefcrx89

iTrader: (1)

Yup.. this little guy right here..
Makes Install/removal stupid easy and fast.


Youtube it in action.

Txdragon

All up in it! I got off easy then since keeping the same turbo kit. I got a new (used) intercooler in trade for an extra cam I had. That and a whole spare block. Otherwise, I'd have ended up where you are on the spend front. New turbo setup around tax time is planned though. We need to get a full roof done for the house since the joker we hired to fix the bad spot fucked it up.. Sigh.. So that takes precedence. Ny only concern is that my current turbo still functions properly and without oil leaks since it has been sitting since September.
I can get another "China charger" to tide me over if need be.
On another note, got my block and rods back from the shop yesterday. Looks good! I'll toss pics up later on. Bored, diamond honed, decked, hot tanked, rods reconditioned. He even gave me a military discount! For all that, I paid 216 bucks.

Txdragon

Thanks for the info. Wish I had this about a month ago. Lol!


Oh ****!!

K7-1Ktrevor

Txdragon

Very nice! I've been happy with the T3/T04E I got with my kit from CXRACING. I contemplated a BB turbo from them. If my current snail has somehow messed up from sitting for 3 months, it just may happen.

Txdragon

Fresh and ready for some pistons!


I don't think my hone looked as good as this one. Now I see what it looks like in person, I should be able to replicate it next time.



Should have the last items by Friday; ACL bearings, torque mounts, Action Clutch stage 3, shifter bushings. Got some cleaning done in the engine bay, nothing extraordinary to post any pics about. Just removed the grime that was there. Gonna do some wiring repairs and scrub the transmission down. Realized why my exhaust is as quiet as it is being 3" catless with no muffler; I have 2 resonators. One of them is the test pipe itself, the other is in the catback. I have another "blank" 3" exhaust flange so I'll make an unresonated section, getting rid of that extra one. That ought to wake the exhaust a bit. Gonna start looking into ring gapping in the next day or so. Trying to get some other yard work accomplished today too. Lol!

NVturbo

^^^ If you haven't bought one already, get this. Makes piston installation a breeze. No hammer, Allen wrench, adjustable ring compressor, etc needed.....just your hands. lol

Txdragon

Interesting. They dont have the same sharp edges as the other ones. Lol! I'll look into these, thanks!

DaX

iTrader: (1)

I second NVturbo's suggestion - this is the same ring compressor I messaged you about a couple weeks back. I've bought two now - one in 75.5mm (D-series overbore) and one in 85.5mm (F-series overbore). Well worth the money, and I know you've cussed your current ring compressor...

Txdragon

According to the CP spec sheet, my rings should be gapped as follows: (.0050 x 3" bore top, .0055 x 3" bore 2nd)
Top: .015"
2nd: .018"
Oil: .015 - .050"

This sound right? I know they are only guidelines, but getting a feeler for some input on a 350-425 hp range. I didn't look this far into gaps the first time around other than an on the surface glance; I just made sure they landed between .015 and .018. In fact, I didn't need to file the first set at all.

Also, is it "bad" if say, one or more rings ends up with a little more gap? Say I get .015 on 3 top rings but take a bit much off of another and end up at .018? As long as it is within the recommendation (.0050 - .0055 x bore) ?

NVturbo

No sharp edges whatsoever. On the bottom, it's tapered so the piston rings compress real easy into the piston gaps. Insert the rod/piston into the sleeve and wiggle it a bit..... push down the top of the piston with your 2 thumbs. BAM...installed.