Txdragon

I used something similar to the flex seal stuff. It is industrial grade liquid rubber that's used in concrete applications. Liquid at first, then dries harder than Chinese algebra. My brother is a construction superintendent and gets all sorts of neat ****. Lol

DaX

iTrader: (1)

I've done Window Weld mounts before back in the past and they worked pretty good. I'll probably buy a set of HASport engine / tranny mounts but use window weld for the torque mounts.

Txdragon

Here is the torque damper bracket side by side with the new driver side engine mount. Gotta trim a little off the sides it seems. Lol! I can trim enough to fit and it still be functional but, I'm definitely gonna be pushing a limit. I may even consider just making a new bracket entirely.. I'll see how this one looks after the trim.




Aaand this is my focus for today. Final cleanup and assembly of the head. Some of my intake rocker arms feel a bit tight, I dunno why but, it's got ma a bit worried..

Cupajoe

I'm running oem new mounts for all mounts. torque mounts I did fill with window weld equivalent.

This prevents massive vibrations in cabin and keeps engine stiff.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Nice. How much HP?

Cupajoe

300

Txdragon

Got some more goodies delivered today.. AEM fuel rail and in-line fuel filter conversion setup. Props to Autoworks for the inspiration behind that! I'm a bit miffed because the stock regulator will not work so, I've gotta get another. Thinking the AEM adjustable.. **shrug**




Also managed to get started on putting my head back together. My first experience with valve lapping.. I gotta say: it was easier than I thought... For reference, the old school style valve lapper was used and I just did the ol' boyscout starting the fire kinda twist until the valve lapping compound was no longer "cutting"; when the grinding sound stopped as I twisted. The result you are looking for is the seat on the right in this pic.. The grey ring at the top of the seat is what you wanna see.



The back of the valve should look like the one on the right; the same grey ring. An unlapped valve on the left to show the difference.


These markings indicate the valve will seat properly when it's closed.

Txdragon

Well FINALLY got my head put back together today. I'm a bit disappointed; I added a little water to my intake ports and had a couple drips from each cylinder. Wasn't running out or anything, it actually was a slow drip. Like, still had a measurable amount of water in the ports after half hour - 45 min. Should I be concerned? Maybe time to recut the seats?
Also after dropping in the 59300 and buttoning it all up, it was quite difficult to turn by hand. Granted, it's just the head, off the engine, I'm trying to turn by hand. My first thought would be coil bind, BUT, again, it's by hand, head only, and comp cam springs 916-12. From my understanding, they're certainly stiffer than stock, but not by too much. **shrug**
Another concern?

Cupajoe

Txdragon

the post above showed my lapping of the valves. Everything looked good, at least from what I was **supposed** to see.
Was curious as to any leak at all being detrimental, or if there is a sort of "tolerance".

Cupajoe

Txdragon

That was the plan honestly. They're closed til Monday though. Lol!

On another note, ordered the Aeromotive 13116. Should be here Friday!

NVturbo

^^^ did you get a gauge as well? "Marshall" brand is the cheapest I found. I have one...black face with yellow numbers.

Txdragon

I did. I got the LS00100 guage. $23 I think it was. Silver with white face.

I have a new dilemma however. The AEM fuel rail will not line up with the 3-bolt pattern on the Skunk2 pro series series. I've found out today that the 3-bolt AEM rails are no longer available. **sadface** So, I will have to make a bracket to mount it on properly. I'm not finding a whole lot of info on the interwebs; nothing with pics that work or even a good description of the issue/workaround.



THIS is gonna be interesting. Anyone have any tips?

maxwellmercer

Seems like you have a Y series rail, so it looks like you're going with another brand. I personally feel like a rail isn't something you should hodge-podge together.

Txdragon

I'm not altogether opposed to getting a different rail, although I'm informed by a seemingly reputable source that this will work fine with mounting help.

Txdragon

The solution is simple. 1 bracket to go across the 3 bolt holes of the intake. 10"x3/4"x1/8" . Mark the fuel rail bolt holes, then drill my mount holes. Couple nuts and bolts and done. The injectors and rail fit nice and snug, just need the bracket to secure it into place. This. Is. Possible.

maxwellmercer

On second thought, the S2 manifold has options for both D series style rails. Note your picture, the furthest left rail stud-- just to the right of it on the bottom portion, same on the opposite side. (terrible explanation but, hopefully you get the point) You should be able to make a spacer and use a long bolt and it'll be able to secure it as well as factory.

Txdragon

The spots circled in blue? The one on the right is kinda hidden but looks like the left.

maxwellmercer

Yes, those are the mounting holes for a Y series rail and should line up perfectly with the rail you have. IF I'm looking at everything right, haha.

Txdragon

They do, as a matter of fact. I noticed that trying to get the pic. Sounds like an easier option than the bracket. Probably not as clean, but effective! I'm all a out function over form anyways. Lol!

Txdragon

Ok so.. Digging deeper into this ******* skunk2/aem fuel rail dilemma, I'm finding that the Y7/Y8 fuel rail is mounted with bolts rather than studs. And they look like this..


The S2 mani DOES have the appropriate mount spots, the problem is that the thread sizes are different. This means I can't just run to the parts store and grab this bolt. I've even checked parts stores and they aren't available. These will be either straight up dealer item, or junkyard. Not too big a deal but, I live about an hour and a half from the nearest dealer and 2 and a half hours from the nearest junkyard. I can still make a mount bracket, which at this time, seems the easier option.

Txdragon

Oh damn.. They're still available at the stealership. About 10 bucks after tax for both but, will take 4 days to get. Sigh..

maxwellmercer

The OEM route seems like the best one.Have them shipped to your door to save some headache! Hope it all works out for you.

Txdragon

Got the Aeromotive regulator in..


But now, I'm pissed..


Straight across.. This will not work for this fuel rail.. I'm at a loss entirely. My next step is send this back for a refund and just get a junkyard Y7 or Y8 regulator..