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Re: Txdragon's D16Z6 project: I've just boarded the Z6 bandwagon..
Originally Posted by DaX
Ah, the budget. That guillotine is getting ready to drop on my project as well. I'll be able to get the engine together and back in the car, but no forced induction until a little later in 2019. I'm hoping by summer, but we'll see when funds are available.
You get to learn a lot about financial discipline though, for the most of it.. I've got a couple credit cards just burning a hole in the Wallet for this BUT, the adult in me says, "No!" Lol!
Biggest thing is that it's not my primary mode of transportation, so it isn't top on my priority list.
Re: Txdragon's D16Z6 project: I've just boarded the Z6 bandwagon..
Originally Posted by Txdragon
You get to learn a lot about financial discipline though, for the most of it.. I've got a couple credit cards just burning a hole in the Wallet for this BUT, the adult in me says, "No!" Lol!
Biggest thing is that it's not my primary mode of transportation, so it isn't top on my priority list.
Agreed. I've done the credit card thing when I was young...I know better now, and operate totally debt free. And yeah, mine is a project car too...I've got a daily driver Civic and a truck also.
Re: Txdragon's D16Z6 project: I've just boarded the Z6 bandwagon..
Ugh, FINALLY.. The VA came through with some much anticipated back pay, therefore, the parts ordering commences! Got the valves, JE pro seal head gasket, some 75A motor mounts (I don't care about vibration), and looking into a fuel rail and
-an fuel line conversion.
More info needed before pulling the trigger on a couple other things but, in the crosshairs is IC piping, BOV, and pending on what's left after knocking down some racked up credit card bills, a new snail..
To be continued..
Re: Txdragon's D16Z6 project: I've just boarded the Z6 bandwagon..
Originally Posted by Txdragon
Ugh, FINALLY.. The VA came through with some much anticipated back pay, therefore, the parts ordering commences! Got the valves, JE pro seal head gasket, some 75A motor mounts (I don't care about vibration), and looking into a fuel rail and
-an fuel line conversion.
More info needed before pulling the trigger on a couple other things but, in the crosshairs is IC piping, BOV, and pending on what's left after knocking down some racked up credit card bills, a new snail..
To be continued..
Re: Txdragon's D16Z6 project: I've just boarded the Z6 bandwagon..
Originally Posted by Txdragon
Now trimming this ridiculous front bumper to fit with the FMIC. Getting a good deal done today since my Eclipse is due to be finished getting the clutch installed and I had no other way to work. The boss is shitting bricks and I'm happily making progress on the swap. #shorttermgoals
That bumper reminds me of a lip I had on my ek back around 2004.
Originally Posted by Txdragon
Downshifting to assist with braking is driving 101. Lol! But, I don't now due to the silly valve seals.
brakes are cheaper and easier to replace. Downshifting to decel is just added wear and tear imo.
Originally Posted by Txdragon
The budget build as it is now. E-tuned by Phearable.net 330hp/276tq conservatively tuned. Dyno shop says I can easily squeeze out more with some tweaks on the dyno. It'll cost me more though, I will tweak later. I'm happy where it sits now. I certainly hit my initial goal and this is a super fun ride!
It's cool to see the single jingle still making some nice numbers. My hatch was a blast with 330 whp. More so than 400+ .
Re: Txdragon's D16Z6 project: I've just boarded the Z6 bandwagon..
Originally Posted by speedjunkie_g35
brakes are cheaper and easier to replace. Downshifting to decel is just added wear and tear imo.
Depends upon the brakes used. When you use the good ****, it can cost more than these seals. Downshift decel doesn't add any additional wear when you know what you're doing with training. I've been (and still do that to all my vehicles, daily driven or not. Saves my brake fluid and keeps the tyres from wearing early.
Re: Txdragon's D16Z6 project: I've just boarded the Z6 bandwagon..
Originally Posted by speedjunkie_g35
That bumper reminds me of a lip I had on my ek back around 2004.
I thought the body kit would be much better but, ugh. Duraflex=****. I like the design honestly, but the air dam was really impractical. The only part of the kit that fit properly were the side skirts. I also had to remove them EVERY time I needed to put it on a jack. The front bumper had to be cut considerably to fit the IC. I have been hunting stock replacements so I can get rid of the kit. Lol
Originally Posted by speedjunkie_g35
brakes are cheaper and easier to replace. Downshifting to decel is just added wear and tear imo.
There's a right way and a wrong way to do it. Every driver's course I've taken has taught this technique though. Being a Class A CDL holder, all the safety courses I can take helps out.
Originally Posted by speedjunkie_g35
It's cool to see the single jingle still making some nice numbers. My hatch was a blast with 330 whp. More so than 400+ .
With this rebuild in progress now, I'm hoping to see 400. I think my current turbo should get me there but i also think it'll be maxed at that. Definitely looking forward to tax time!
Re: Txdragon's D16Z6 project: I've just boarded the Z6 bandwagon..
Originally Posted by TheShodan
Depends upon the brakes used. When you use the good ****, it can cost more than these seals. Downshift decel doesn't add any additional wear when you know what you're doing with training. I've been (and still do that to all my vehicles, daily driven or not. Saves my brake fluid and keeps the tyres from wearing early.
On that note, what brakes would you recommend? I'm looking into Hawk and EBC currently with a set of slotted rotors.
Most importantly- Brake fluidthat has a Dry boiling point of over 500*F, Wet Boiling over 400*F
If you can put any fluid in the brake lines, you can use DOT 5 or DOT 5.1 (Motul 600 or Motul 660 )
If you must stay DOT4 fluid due to regulations (I have no idea who checks, and who doesn't) Castrol React SRF brake fluid
These will give the brakes a nice stiffer (*snicker*) pedal feel, especially with the new brake lines, and please do NOT change the proportioning valve of your car. It's not needed, and causes you to "double pump" the brakes to feel secure when using good fluids.
DO NOT USE ANY OF THESE FLUIDS IN THE STOCK BRAKE LINES- IT WILL NOT HELP YOU. The rubber lines will still expand due to the heat as compared to the SS lines that are nylon reinforced.
When you bleed the system, and if you decide to use a speed bleeder, use the brake master cylinder as the main sealing point, and don't try to bleed from the caliper (if so equipped).
Hawk HP+ Front Hawk HPS for the Rear
Goodridge Stainless lines
Most importantly- Brake fluidthat has a Dry boiling point of over 500*F, Wet Boiling over 400*F
If you can put any fluid in the brake lines, you can use DOT 5 or DOT 5.1 (Motul 600 or Motul 660 )
If you must stay DOT4 fluid due to regulations (I have no idea who checks, and who doesn't) Castrol React SRF brake fluid
These will give the brakes a nice stiffer (*snicker*) pedal feel, especially with the new brake lines, and please do NOT change the proportioning valve of your car. It's not needed, and causes you to "double pump" the brakes to feel secure when using good fluids.
DO NOT USE ANY OF THESE FLUIDS IN THE STOCK BRAKE LINES- IT WILL NOT HELP YOU. The rubber lines will still expand due to the heat as compared to the SS lines that are nylon reinforced.
When you bleed the system, and if you decide to use a speed bleeder, use the brake master cylinder as the main sealing point, and don't try to bleed from the caliper (if so equipped).
Thanks for that! I figured slotted rotors would be helpful at least. Cross-drilled were what I thought to be unnecessary.
I still have drums in the rear, I hadn't even thought about swapping to disc. I thought that's more aesthetic than anything and since the vast majority of the stopping force is front biased, some good stoppers up front would be optimal. We don't have any sort of auto inspections here; emissions, safety, nothing; so I could practically get away with murder on a wild build. As long as it has a license plate, mirrors, and working headlights, taillights, and blinkers, I'm golden!
On another note.. More parts arrived!
got my Ferrea 6k valves
Odd that they were all tossed in 1 box.. Intake and exhaust valves.. **shrug**
And the 75A urethane motor mounts. They aren't Hasport but they are BEEFY and don't feel the slightest bit "cheap".
DNA Motoring is the brand..
AEM fuel rail and filter conversion components should be arriving Monday or Tuesday.
Machine shop is gonna be closed this coming week for Christmas vacation, but says they can get me in almost immediately afterwards. Deck, bore, hone, hot tank/wash 250.00. If I have them resurface the head and assemble the longblock, it'll cost me 350. (Price is with my head already assembled and ready to go).
Re: Txdragon's D16Z6 project: I've just boarded the Z6 bandwagon..
My Skunk2 valves all came in one box also, they was neatly individually wrapped, but in a single box. I’ve not heard anything bad from the DNA mounts, in fact I’m using the DNA turbo manifold from them right now, they are not built to the level of a 1320 or such, but worked well none the less, but I’m going go to upgrade mine of course soon as my budget allows.
Re: Txdragon's D16Z6 project: I've just boarded the Z6 bandwagon..
Originally Posted by turboLScrx
My Skunk2 valves all came in one box also, they was neatly individually wrapped, but in a single box. I’ve not heard anything bad from the DNA mounts, in fact I’m using the DNA turbo manifold from them right now, they are not built to the level of a 1320 or such, but worked well none the less, but I’m going go to upgrade mine of course soon as my budget allows.
Are the 1320 Performance mounts pretty good? They're the same price as these DNA mounts.
Re: Txdragon's D16Z6 project: I've just boarded the Z6 bandwagon..
Originally Posted by turboLScrx
My Skunk2 valves all came in one box also, they was neatly individually wrapped, but in a single box. I’ve not heard anything bad from the DNA mounts, in fact I’m using the DNA turbo manifold from them right now, they are not built to the level of a 1320 or such, but worked well none the less, but I’m going go to upgrade mine of course soon as my budget allows.
Yeah, I have a DNA ramhorn currently. Fitment was better than the CX cast mani that came with the kit. Lol! The DNA mani has a good feel to it and doesn't feel flimsy as some of the first SS autochrome manifolds did.
The mounts look and feel fantastic for the cost, I paid 76 shipped. I looked into innovate as a less expensive alternative to Hasports as well, we'll see how these work out before saying they should be swapped. I've heard the only issue I may have is that they're pretty stiff, so cabin vibration may be a bit annoying. Having driven an M1-A2 Abrams for many years, I couldn't care less about vibrations.. lol
Originally Posted by DaX
My Ferrea valves came packaged the same way.
It was a bit surprising, yeah. Lol! They were individually packaged so, that's a plus. Thankfully the exhaust and intake are different sizes though because there's NO identifier on each pack.
I'll be assembling the head at some point today. Gotta get some progress today!
Re: Txdragon's D16Z6 project: I've just boarded the Z6 bandwagon..
If your hand lapping your valves in the easiest way I've found is use a small piece of vacuum line on the back of the valve stem and spin it with an electric drill till it sounds a little different. Saves you from bruising your hands using the suction cup hand lapper. Those things can be super frustrating.
Re: Txdragon's D16Z6 project: I've just boarded the Z6 bandwagon..
Originally Posted by K7-1Ktrevor
If your hand lapping your valves in the easiest way I've found is use a small piece of vacuum line on the back of the valve stem and spin it with an electric drill till it sounds a little different. Saves you from bruising your hands using the suction cup hand lapper. Those things can be super frustrating.
Thanks for the tip! I got the lapper tool and was totally prepared to use that fire starting boy scout badge. Lol
Re: Txdragon's D16Z6 project: I've just boarded the Z6 bandwagon..
Originally Posted by turboLScrx
I’m not getting close to touching my valves lol. I’m not screwing up 2k in parts I just paid for ..... not a chance in hell. Lol
Lol! Yeah, I'd be a little nervous as well. I'm hoping I don't need new valve seats. They look good but, looks CAN be deceiving.
On another note, got some engine bay aesthetics taken care of with a little valve cover reconditioning. Need to clean it up juuuuust a bit, but overall, I'm happy with it.
This is my setup but hype r calipers and rotors up front and rear disk. I run centric blanks on all my cars (parent company of stoptech) The Hawk pads leave a lot of dust but they have great stopping power.
Re: Txdragon's D16Z6 project: I've just boarded the Z6 bandwagon..
Originally Posted by DaX
turboLScrx - are you running torque mounts along with the three engine / tranny mounts?
i tried to add the torque mounts and never could get them in correctly, I’m just changing over to solid mounts. I welded my rear mount this year lol. I’m replacing it with something with a little bushing while the motor is still out though
12-10-2018, 06:23 AM
Re: Txdragon's D16Z6 project: I've just boarded the Z6 bandwagon..
