dc97

Hi community,
my mind is set on a small turbo and would be using my integra b20b gsr trans for autox and some weekend driving. Im looking to get a turbo that can hit full boost at 2000 -2500 rpm and hold up to 6000-6300 rpm. I understand i wont be at 6300 rpm in auto x. Ive done so much research on the net and cannot find a straight forward answer. Btw, before anyone says anything, my suspension, brakes and tires is done. From everysingle bushing to braces, sway bars and buddy club n+ spec.
thanks (:

LightningTeg

Check out the GT2560R (GT28R). I think that would be perfect for a B20. Maxes out around 300whp.

dc97

Thanks for the response. I should have also specified this, but 200whp is what im looking at and to make sure i hit full boost at 2000-2500 rpm. Idk if anyone here has experience with those numbers, maybe from a mitsu turbo or WRX

Schister66

The problem with using factory turbo components is that they use weird flanges, which makes finding a manifold rather difficult. You'll have an easy time finding T25/T3 flanged manifolds, but I highly doubt anyone carries a VF-flanged Subaru manifold for a B series...same goes for the 16g

https://agpturbo.com/garrett-journal-bearing-gt2252/
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...ory_Code=GTNBB

dc97

do you have any experience with the turbo in the 2nd link? What part number would you recommend out of the 2? Also, will that turbo hit full boost at or before 2500rpm? Thanks

Schister66

Just to complicate things further - here are a few more to consider:
Garret T3 60 Trim
Turbonetics 50 trim/ 60 trim/ Super 60

Full_Tilt

If youre only really looking for 200hp the GT2554R would be perfect. The spool and response will be very quick. That being said, the GT2560R is going to have great response as well and give you quite a bit more headroom if you decide to go for more power.

Here is a 2554 on a 1.8L miata. There is more spool down there if they had started the dyno at a lower RPM.


They are known to drop off at 5500+ rpm on the Miatas, which is why many go for the 2560, or 2860. Youre going to be at 6k rpm while autocrossing a lot more than you will be at 2k rpm.

dc97

lol great, more research. Honestly, thanks though for your inputs.

dc97

at what rpm would you consider a fast quick spool(max psi) on the gt2554r your mentioned?

Im just more concerned about the hairpin turns, so i just want that max psi at 2000-2500rpm

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

You mean maximum torque. Max boost at that point is not what you're trying to accomplish. If it makes that torque at the point you want, that's fine. You're basically trying to make a decent sized engine act like a BIGGER engine.
That is where you measure the turbine and compressor adiabatic maps to see if you're in the right direction. At about 23lbs/min, that's about right.

dc97

you are right about the max torque. What i want is as much response as possible as early as those rpms i mentioned with the least amount of lag as possible. So far im thinking about gt20..

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Let's just say I've used a lot of those GT20s on snowmobile and Polaris applications, and they are only 900cc, and run out of top end, quickly. Bump it up to the GT25R family at minimum.

dc97

at what rpm would you hit "max torque" on that snail?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Umm. About 2000rpms, then it went straight down. But it's supposed to. You don't rev high on those in comparison. Remember, 900cc vs. 1998cc (B20B).. Big difference , but not in a good way.
Even the K03 turbos off of Audi's and Fords would make better torque band than a GT20

dc97

hmm, i see, so the gt25r would suffice for 2500 rpm then? Thanks for the responses btw

extremeracer

A Holset HX27W or HE221W are other alternatives you could consider. They are very compact, high flowing for their size, have built-in anti-surge housings and are T3 flanged.

They are internally gated, or you can remove and block off the wastegate flap and remove the actuator assembly if an external gate is to be used.

Kevinio

I would suggest like it's already been told: Garret GT2554R or GT2560R. You've got a 2 liter, so it will spool up very quickly. I think the GT2554r will run out to soon for the fun weekends. Otherwise you can use a TD05-16G or a VAG K04, but you will have those non standard turbine housings. The TD05-16G is a twin scroll turbo, that also will be fun on a 2 liter.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I wanted to help you out with that, forgive me.

Kevinio

Thanks!

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

No problem. It's the turbine housing that makes it so. In order to get any benefits of that twin scroll, he needs both the turbine housing and configure his exhaust manifold to manifest the benefits of that feature. The turbocharger alone has nothing to do with it.

Check out Cabletie's 16G6 B16 project. He was successful in integrating a 16G6 into his system, but had to make his own exhaust manifold to do it.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced...3213078/page6/

The difficulty in dc97's suggestion of using anything factory is the fact that only that turbine housing from the factory will work (with the exception of some Holset turbochargers). Since we don't know his mechanical inclination or welding ability, we can't assume that he knows how to get the correct materials and configuration (like Cabletie) in order to create the setup to maximize the use of a twin scroll turbine housing. If the turbine wheel is just too large, and the exhaust housing is not configured properly, then even "twin scroll" benefits will easily be lost. So, having a divided housing is a necessity, but not a sufficiency in order to get any benefits of a twin scroll housing. As the 1st illustration suggests, the division must follow the entire line of the turbine housing's inner volute, and not simply be divided for a few millimeters down the turbine flange entry.






Actual Twin Scroll




This is not a twin scroll housing. This is simply a divided turbine housing, found on larger turbine wheels for large units and factory tractor units of the OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer)


Nor is this, despite internet lore. This does not give any benefits. It is simply a recast version of the original GT32 T3 divided turbine housing.


I know that was a lot, but I hope that clears a few things up.

dc97

that was definitely a lot lol. Thanks for the info. I think im set on the gt2554r as of now... what is a compatible manifold log for this turbo? At this point i want to save as much money as possible on the rest of the conponents. Can i use a small intercooler from a d series? Also is 2 1/4 straight pipe fine?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

You get the turbo first, then you get the manifold. It's not a simple "bolt on" affair. Get the turbo, find the downpipe flanging and then find the manifold. you may have to send the turbo to someplace like Go-Autoworks to help make sure it can mate well with the rest of your setup. Can't do this over the phone, as the GT2554R is not your usual turbocharger to use. Get photos, send it to them.

dc97

would this work ?
http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=67810&cat_key=698&prodname=Honda+B +Series+DIY+Log+Manifold+Kit

dc97

I also found this.. the flange bolt pattern looks a little off center though, what do you guys think?
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Exhaust-Manifold-HONDA-Civic-B16-B18-B20-T25-Flg-/381948216289?nav=SEARCH

2kdrift

I think thats typical for b series log manifolds, IMO just buy one from go autoworks its cheaper anyway, I would recommend sending the turbo to him like shodan suggested and he can create a downpipe that will fit your application at the same time.

Turbo
https://www.google.com/search?site=w...k1.nlnLiRXOa80

manifold
http://www.go-autoworks-store.com/gocairbsedot.html

manifold + downpie kit
http://www.go-autoworks-store.com/gobcamaco.html

you might get a cheaper price if you decide to go internal wastegate turbo as he wont need to make the dumptube