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‘I would take the information that’s available today 100 times over compared to what we had to work with back in the 90’s. At least you can take small pieces from everyone’s opinions today, back then, there was no YouTube and internet was still dialup , it was all just about a lot of hard work and blowing stuff up . And there was no such thing as EBay or Amazon, turbos started around 1000.00 for a smaller turbo. To compare today to back then is no comparison when it comes to making things easy
Making it easier doesn't make it better. EBay & Amazon killed the shops that specialised in Hondas & other models, and the people that became the experts that we were used to seeing both on the everyday street, the track. They lived it, not just relied on Google to help hock parts that they knew nothing about. Those that sold parts knew part numbers and how to check cross-reference. Instead of one or two extra parts, you barely get the minimum parts needed, without extra information to ensure the car held together.
When you got a recommendation on what to get around 15-18 years ago SHOPS made those recommendations based on actual experiences, not on who was the most exposed on the internet, what"what guys are doing now", as though it's just trending.
And so you know, quality turbos that are smaller are still $1000, because new materials, technology, and testing cost money. You want a CX Racing kit great, but there is cost to the cheapness.
I'm not saying we should go back completely to the "olden days ×, access too info is much more efficient. However, due to the "ease" of access and attempts to perform more with lower costs, we have sacrificed actual knowledge, with consensus thinking; sure, we killed some engines by trial & error, but you gotta admit, we didn't make those same mistakes twice.
Making it easier doesn't make it better. EBay & Amazon killed the shops that specialised in Hondas & other models, and the people that became the experts that we were used to seeing both on the everyday street, the track. They lived it, not just relied on Google to help hock parts that they knew nothing about. Those that sold parts knew part numbers and how to check cross-reference. Instead of one or two extra parts, you barely get the minimum parts needed, without extra information to ensure the car held together.
When you got a recommendation on what to get around 15-18 years ago SHOPS made those recommendations based on actual experiences, not on who was the most exposed on the internet, what"what guys are doing now", as though it's just trending.
And so you know, quality turbos that are smaller are still $1000, because new materials, technology, and testing cost money. You want a CX Racing kit great, but there is cost to the cheapness.
I'm not saying we should go back completely to the "olden days ×, access too info is much more efficient. However, due to the "ease" of access and attempts to perform more with lower costs, we have sacrificed actual knowledge, with consensus thinking; sure, we killed some engines by trial & error, but you gotta admit, we didn't make those same mistakes twice.
i think the the reason I feel in love with import racing was because of the challenges that came with it. Anybody could make a v8 go fast, running a import set you aside from everyone else and made it that much more gratifying with you bested a muscle car
Looking good, now you need to reshoot the paint and it would look really good.
thanks, AZ. I’m either doing a body wrap or doing paint job while the engine is out. I would rather paint it since the body is very straight . Going to run the car this weekend, temps will be in the 50’s and I’ve got a strong tune done now. I’m hoping for low 11’s and would do a backflip if I could hit a high 10. Lol
thanks, AZ. I’m either doing a body wrap or doing paint job while the engine is out. I would rather paint it since the body is very straight . Going to run the car this weekend, temps will be in the 50’s and I’ve got a strong tune done now. I’m hoping for low 11’s and would do a backflip if I could hit a high 10. Lol
I like paint better than wraps but I've seen some nice wraps as well. It would look really nice with a super clean factory red re-spray though, I'm a fan of just keeping factory colors on cars.
Never got the take off that that I wanted, car used to 60ft around 1.6.-1.7 and my stand alone went goofy so I stuck a old chrome tune from 2007 into my ECU so I could run the car. About time to pull the motor, but I think Im Going to try one last time next week to get close to a 10 sec pass on stock rods
Nice, what kind of times did you run this time out.?
consistant high 11’s. Around 116-117mph, my best 60 foot was 1.88 which is horrible for me. I had to reinstall my old chrome chip from 12 years ago since my program went goofy. The only data logs I got showed me shifting between 6800-7000 rpms. My tach and shift light both was malfunctioning. My shift light was coming on at 4000 for some reason, I had it set for 8200.
Going to to work out the bugs and get launch control going over the next week or so, we found the problem with the program and going to the dyno to work things out. I think with a good 60ft and turn the boost up it should get damn close to the 10’s before I build the motor. Data log showed I was only at 9 psi and maxed at 10.4psi . At only 9.1 compression I’ll take it up to 13-14 psi.
Last edited by turboLScrx; 10-22-2018 at 01:28 PM.
Been working on suspension, had to cut the front fenders until I can afford the wide front end. Lost everything off launch because I had to raise the car all the way up in the front because of the large slicks, I hope to see my 60 ft back down into the 1.6’s instead of 1.9’s
I did did a baseline pull on a Dyno today before we changed over the engine software. This is the same tune I run 11.8 @ 116.9mph last weekend. This chart looks so much different than other GSR charts I’ve seen. With over 212lbs of torque I expected the peak HP to be higher than 234 and I’m not sure why my power curve was diving. I don’t think these cars make peak power at 6300 rpms. Car got very rich after 6000 rpms (mid 10’s on wideband)..... also, what gear do most dyno test in? This was a 4th gear pull, but having a LS tranny I was wondering is I needed to do my pulls in 3rd?
Mid 10s in AFR after 6000rpms is way too rich. Also, 234whp@212ft-lbs is not that bad at all, but you need to definitely lean up a bit, and retune. Torque will stay flat to about 6000-6500, but yes, after that, it will taper off on an LS.
Mid 10s in AFR after 6000rpms is way too rich. Also, 234whp@212ft-lbs is not that bad at all, but you need to definitely lean up a bit, and retune. Torque will stay flat to about 6000-6500, but yes, after that, it will taper off on an LS.
im about to switch over to the stand alone and hopefully hit the dyno next week. I’m going to push it up to around 300whp before I pull the motor for the full build. I did this dyno pull just to see what power I was making for a baseline before I started changing things, I’m Truly surprised the car ran 11.80 @116.9 with only that much power. This weekend I’m installing to some 750cc injectors and swaping to e85, I’m going to drive the dog crap out of this car and try for a high 10 before I pull the motor in a few weeks
im about to switch over to the stand alone and hopefully hit the dyno next week. I’m going to push it up to around 300whp before I pull the motor for the full build. I did this dyno pull just to see what power I was making for a baseline before I started changing things, I’m Truly surprised the car ran 11.80 @116.9 with only that much power. This weekend I’m installing to some 750cc injectors and swaping to e85, I’m going to drive the dog crap out of this car and try for a high 10 before I pull the motor in a few weeks
I'd also try moving your VTEC engagement point a little lower. Torque starts dropping at ~4600 on the primary lobes so I would experiment with ~4600 as the VTEC switchover point in order to gain more area under the curve. Some people get fixated on the VTEC rpm range as being 5000 - 5500 as per the factory settings, but on my car we had it as low as 3800 rpm and it worked best. This obviously depends on cams, intake and turbo manifold design, turbo size, compression etc etc.
If you however purposefully delaying Torque to after 5200 rpm to safeguard the internals then the settings are working well .
Cutting the fenders to make room is a good idea until you get a wide front. Another thing I did was in the wheel well there is a spine that runs the entire length of the wheel well and what would happen to me was when I would slow down at the end of the track the front would dip and the slick would touch that spine and it dug into the slicks. All I did was took a little sledge and bent it flat, something to think about.
I'd also try moving your VTEC engagement point a little lower. Torque starts dropping at ~4600 on the primary lobes so I would experiment with ~4600 as the VTEC switchover point in order to gain more area under the curve. Some people get fixated on the VTEC rpm range as being 5000 - 5500 as per the factory settings, but on my car we had it as low as 3800 rpm and it worked best. This obviously depends on cams, intake and turbo manifold design, turbo size, compression etc etc.
If you however purposefully delaying Torque to after 5200 rpm to safeguard the internals then the settings are working well .
i was thinking about trying that, the car pulls soooo much harder when vtec comes in, but I also understand that I can get it too low. Thanks for some tips
Cutting the fenders to make room is a good idea until you get a wide front. Another thing I did was in the wheel well there is a spine that runs the entire length of the wheel well and what would happen to me was when I would slow down at the end of the track the front would dip and the slick would touch that spine and it dug into the slicks. All I did was took a little sledge and bent it flat, something to think about.
i think I know what your talking about and I will take a look tomorrow, slicks are too expensive to destroy! Getting the car down like this should help all the way around.
Dude, those wheels look so sick. Nice build, I'll definitely be following along as another 'comeback' oldschooler.
Thanks! I’m working hard bring the old girl back to life, pulling the motor starting is three weeks and then the real fun can begin. But I’m like the next guy, things aren’t cheap and if I can’t pay cash for it..... I won’t buy it. I don’t wont anymore debt in my life,
But I’m like the next guy, things aren’t cheap and if I can’t pay cash for it..... I won’t buy it. I don’t wont anymore debt in my life,
Same. My wife and I have been totally debt free for about 2-3 years now and it's great. My first turbo build had so many parts purchased on credit...I have learned a lot since then.
Hoping to get back to the track this weekend, should be able to detail launch control which I’ve never had before today. Some more data logging this week and hoping for a deep 11 or high 10 run
Hoping to get back to the track this weekend, should be able to detail launch control which I’ve never had before today. Some more data logging this week and hoping for a deep 11 or high 10 run
I used to launch with around 5psi boost on 24.5x8.0x15 ET Drag slicks with a fair bit of rpm and it worked well. Our track was Sh!tt& though compared to the US track prep, could only run ~10 psi in 1st gear which was ~380whp, anymore and it would wheelspin too much.
I used to launch with around 5psi boost on 24.5x8.0x15 ET Drag slicks with a fair bit of rpm and it worked well. Our track was Sh!tt& though compared to the US track prep, could only run ~10 psi in 1st gear which was ~380whp, anymore and it would wheelspin too much.
I think I had the rpm set to 5500 in that video, I’m guessing I will need to launch around 55-6500. I guess I will know after a few passes
Did some dyno tuning tonight, I still have some weird hiccup at 5300 rpm, but I think it might be a bad plug wire or cap but I won’t know until I change them. Amazing what a little time on a dyno does. 40whp max gain and a much better curve overall, 50whp gain at 7500. All this was at the same boost level 10.4psi I brought vtec engagement down to 4500 and it really smoothed out the curve which gave me a nice boost of power across the map. The guy that owns this dyno say his dyno is a little stingy compared to others, the RED line was the tune that I ran my 11.8 @116.9 with , the GREEN was the end tune
10-17-2018, 04:18 AM
Re: TurboLScrx - Making my return to the fold
