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I'm the buddy TurboLScrx is referring to. Once we're done, I'll try to write up this process. A user by 1 2 NV on here already did a great write up. Just search for V2V and you'll see his thread. There is also a great YouTube series by a guy named Jafromobile. Very informative. I used both of their info as well as a handful of articles on HotRod magazine's web site to put all the pieces together. I used all this knowledge a year ago to build my own engine. It's great to know that a little (ok, a lot) of time measuring and checking and measuring again will result in a safely toleranced build. We will know how much adjustment at the cams is safe for valve to valve clearance, as well as piston to valve. That will then tell us the safe range we have to adjust the cams before interference. Then, when we degree the cams, we'll know that the cam specs match this particular engine and whether or not those specs are within our safe range that we measured. We are really just building a safety net for our cam adjustment. We will let the cam specs and the degree wheel tell us what to adjust the cams to in order to match the cam specs to this engine. Hope all this makes some sort of sense. I'm sure TurboLScrx will post more in the coming days as we continue with our measurements.
I'm the buddy TurboLScrx is referring to. Once we're done, I'll try to write up this process. A user by 1 2 NV on here already did a great write up. Just search for V2V and you'll see his thread. There is also a great YouTube series by a guy named Jafromobile. Very informative. I used both of their info as well as a handful of articles on HotRod magazine's web site to put all the pieces together. I used all this knowledge a year ago to build my own engine. It's great to know that a little (ok, a lot) of time measuring and checking and measuring again will result in a safely toleranced build. We will know how much adjustment at the cams is safe for valve to valve clearance, as well as piston to valve. That will then tell us the safe range we have to adjust the cams before interference. Then, when we degree the cams, we'll know that the cam specs match this particular engine and whether or not those specs are within our safe range that we measured. We are really just building a safety net for our cam adjustment. We will let the cam specs and the degree wheel tell us what to adjust the cams to in order to match the cam specs to this engine. Hope all this makes some sort of sense. I'm sure TurboLScrx will post more in the coming days as we continue with our measurements.
Jafro!! Yeah, I watched a video of him polishing the combustion chambers on a 4G63 head. Good stuff. I **honestly** haven't done ANY searches on dialing in a 2 cam. I've had no need to with the single stick D16Z6. I am slowly gathering Intel on the B though for a future build. When the time is right, methinks I'll go with either a B16 or GSR, depending on what chassis I'll be putting it in. If I decide to toss it in my EG, I'll go B16. If I can find a good Teggy shell, I'll go GSR. If you proceed with the write up, I'll certainly give it a read!
Starting to get somewhere, I finished degreeing the cams and I charted the valve to piston clearance for future camshaft adjustments, I’ve done a dry mock-up but now I’ve just got to install the valves/springs and bolt the head down and get this thing in the car
I’m really close to being able to drop it into the car! I’ll just leave the same injectors and map sensor on the car for break period in since it was a good running tune. I’m getting that nervous feeling because we all know how badly things can go wrong with any build, if it makes it through the first heat cycle ok I’ll feel pretty good.
I’m really close to being able to drop it into the car! I’ll just leave the same injectors and map sensor on the car for break period in since it was a good running tune. I’m getting that nervous feeling because we all know how badly things can go wrong with any build, if it makes it through the first heat cycle ok I’ll feel pretty good.
‘thanks buddy, I’ve tried to be thoughtful about a color scheme that didn’t look childish and looked more like business. I Finished up all sensors and lines tonight and will get the transmission bolted up tomorrow evening and up on the hoist ready to drop in. Only thing left is the 10an lines on the valve cover and they can’t be done until it’s all in place
Your build is dope as hell bro. I was trying to "keep up" with you this weekend while installing my head gasket and cams but that didnt work out so well. LOL I made the mistake of reusing old cam cap bolts and one broke off while trying to torque it down.
When you installed your cams, did you go strictly by OEM torque specs? Im reading alot of folks saying they simply hand tightened the cams cap bolts. 20 ft/lbs doesnt feel like much force and the outter bolts go as low as 7.5 ft/lb. My torque wrench bottoms out at 7. So im kinda feel likes its not gonna be accurate. Any advice?
Your build is dope as hell bro. I was trying to "keep up" with you this weekend while installing my head gasket and cams but that didnt work out so well. LOL I made the mistake of reusing old cam cap bolts and one broke off while trying to torque it down.
When you installed your cams, did you go strictly by OEM torque specs? Im reading alot of folks saying they simply hand tightened the cams cap bolts. 20 ft/lbs doesnt feel like much force and the outter bolts go as low as 7.5 ft/lb. My torque wrench bottoms out at 7. So im kinda feel likes its not gonna be accurate. Any advice?
‘ thank you for the comments, the main 14mm cam bolt I used torque wrench and used the cams recommendation, the 5 gear bolts I used the good ole feels about right technique lol. But I think mine recommended 15ft lbs and I’m sure I’m close to that. I always use a 1/4in ratchet for the small items like that, I’ve assembled enough engines to no the limits for basic items, but I never use guessing on things such as head/main/rods/ect
‘ thank you for the comments, the main 14mm cam bolt I used torque wrench and used the cams recommendation, the 5 gear bolts I used the good ole feels about right technique lol. But I think mine recommended 15ft lbs and I’m sure I’m close to that. I always use a 1/4in ratchet for the small items like that, I’ve assembled enough engines to no the limits for basic items, but I never use guessing on things such as head/main/rods/ect
Yea my engine builder handled the bottom end. I definitely went OEM on the head studs. Should have been more careful with the cam caps tho. Im just gonna run all new hardware and do the inners with the torque wrench and hand tighten the outer bolts. Ill update my thread when take care of that.
Your build is dope as hell bro. I was trying to "keep up" with you this weekend while installing my head gasket and cams but that didnt work out so well. LOL I made the mistake of reusing old cam cap bolts and one broke off while trying to torque it down.
When you installed your cams, did you go strictly by OEM torque specs? Im reading alot of folks saying they simply hand tightened the cams cap bolts. 20 ft/lbs doesnt feel like much force and the outter bolts go as low as 7.5 ft/lb. My torque wrench bottoms out at 7. So im kinda feel likes its not gonna be accurate. Any advice?
20ft/lbs is too much for the cam caps. I believe the OEM spec is 18? I've always comfortably ran 15-16 ft/lbs with no issue, 8ft/lb on the outer cap bolts. Just be sure everything is spinning freely!
20ft/lbs is too much for the cam caps. I believe the OEM spec is 18? I've always comfortably ran 15-16 ft/lbs with no issue, 8ft/lb on the outer cap bolts. Just be sure everything is spinning freely!
The factory spec for "B" and "H" series engine cam cap bolts are in fact 20 ft/lbs for the 8mm bolts (12mm 6-pt head) and 8.7 ft/lbs for the 6mm bolts (10mm 6-pt head). You might be thinking about the "K" series cam cap bolts... that spec would be 16 ft/lbs for the 8mm bolts and 8.7 ft/lbs for the sole 6mm bolt.
Damn, that looks good! Is that a "home made" S2 plug cover? (You found a use for the product sticker)?
I've just taken all my product stickers sent with parts and stuck them to the underside of the hood. Lol!
Damn, that looks good! Is that a "home made" S2 plug cover? (You found a use for the product sticker)?
I've just taken all my product stickers sent with parts and stuck them to the underside of the hood. Lol!
lol. I stuck that sticker on last night just to see what it would look like, I’ll peel it back off tonight probably since it wasn’t designed for that level of heat. I should have enough time today to make all my final connections, if all goes as planned I might be able to do my first start up
lol. I stuck that sticker on last night just to see what it would look like, I’ll peel it back off tonight probably since it wasn’t designed for that level of heat. I should have enough time today to make all my final connections, if all goes as planned I might be able to do my first start up
It should be fine. The stickers under my hood have stayed for a while now.
You can see them here. They're not all that far from being over the turbo anyways.
I say; let it ride! It looks pretty good.
The factory spec for "B" and "H" series engine cam cap bolts are in fact 20 ft/lbs for the 8mm bolts (12mm 6-pt head) and 8.7 ft/lbs for the 6mm bolts (10mm 6-pt head). You might be thinking about the "K" series cam cap bolts... that spec would be 16 ft/lbs for the 8mm bolts and 8.7 ft/lbs for the sole 6mm bolt.
Had a kinda scary moment today, I was able to get all the fuel/vacuum and oil lines finished up and went to make sure the motor would build oil pressure. I had all the plugs out as well as the computer disconnected so the motor spun as freely as possible as to build oil pressure. I wanted to make sure it would make pressure before I finished everything and then learned I would have to tear it back down. After about 3-5 mins of on/off motor spinning I was getting nothing! My heart about sank.... I pulled off the oil filter off just to make sure and it was dry as a bone! I made a call to B18apower to go over things and make sure I wasn’t missing anything and we agreed I had not. He was able to find where apparently some people had experienced zero oil pressure on a fresh built motor and found that pulling the top plug off the oil pump and pouring oil into the oil pump would apparently help kick start the oil pump for the first time..... and that worked!! That was the most stressful 30 mins I’ve had in a while and the first time I’ve ever had to do that to build oil pressure. The second the oil pressure hit the motor and pushed the assembly lube out the motor speed picked up and it built around 22psi of pressure. I plan on finishing up things and doing that first start in the next few days......nerves. Lol
some people had experienced zero oil pressure on a fresh built motor and found that pulling the top plug off the oil pump and pouring oil into the oil pump would apparently help kick start the oil pump for the first time.....
I've never had to do this but if it worked, that's all that matters. Priming the oil pump manually, like that, is probably safer too.
Had a kinda scary moment today, I was able to get all the fuel/vacuum and oil lines finished up and went to make sure the motor would build oil pressure. I had all the plugs out as well as the computer disconnected so the motor spun as freely as possible as to build oil pressure. I wanted to make sure it would make pressure before I finished everything and then learned I would have to tear it back down. After about 3-5 mins of on/off motor spinning I was getting nothing! My heart about sank.... I pulled off the oil filter off just to make sure and it was dry as a bone! I made a call to B18apower to go over things and make sure I wasn’t missing anything and we agreed I had not. He was able to find where apparently some people had experienced zero oil pressure on a fresh built motor and found that pulling the top plug off the oil pump and pouring oil into the oil pump would apparently help kick start the oil pump for the first time..... and that worked!! That was the most stressful 30 mins I’ve had in a while and the first time I’ve ever had to do that to build oil pressure. The second the oil pressure hit the motor and pushed the assembly lube out the motor speed picked up and it built around 22psi of pressure. I plan on finishing up things and doing that first start in the next few days......nerves. Lol
Had me nervous just reading the story lol You really moving man. Keep up the good work..
02-11-2019, 12:00 PM
Re: TurboLScrx - Making my return to the fold
You might be thinking about the "K" series cam cap bolts... that spec would be 16 ft/lbs for the 8mm bolts and 8.7 ft/lbs for the sole 6mm bolt.
