FASTEG

Hey guys. I just had my 95 LS Integra turbo'd a year ago, got it back in Sept. of '03 (long story), and it hasn't been running right since. I have 310 CC injectors in it, and I'm running 12 LBS of boost (it's a fully built block and head), but every time I go to start my car, it takes me about 2-3 minutes to finally keep it running. Is it flooding itself?

I'll turn the key, and it'll start but then die, and it does this repeatedly!!! Finally it will stay running, but at a high RPM (due to a broken antifreeze sensor, which I replaced but must have been a bad one, cause I'm still getting the same code), but anyways...I have an APEXi AFC on it, but I've been told they suck, and go to a fuel management system. What I want to know is, is this a normal thing and will it be fixed when I put an AEM system on it? Or what other suggestions do you have for me?

There's no AFC hack, just so you know.

Sorry for the long post, but I'm just trying to give you guys all the info before you try to help me. Thanks!

Mr. Softee

lean out the lower rpms, the 310s are adding too much fuel. Are you using an FMU at 12psi ?

MiraiZ

12psi w/310cc's??? ...man are you asking for it

roydogg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MiraiZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">12psi w/310cc's??? ...man are you asking for it </TD></TR></TABLE>

I was thinkin the same thing when i read that

FASTEG

believe it or not, I'm running extremely rich. I've had it dynoed and it was right on for the A/F ratio. On the street, I notice it running richer as I get on it, too. I know the 310's are low for 12 psi, and I also have 370's, but I should go higher. I'm just trying to figure out how to keep my car from taking so long to start. I want it to be how it was stock, but I doubt it will be like that unless someone can help me, or tune it.

As for an FMU, yes, I have one. I can't remember what brand it is, but I can find out when I go back to my other house.

I also have a walbro 255 lph intank pump. Would this affect the starting? hmm....

dunkd

ditch the FMU and 310's, and get some bigger injectors and a tune

FASTEG

What would you recommend as far as a fuel management system goes? I like the AEM, but it's kinda pricey, and I want something that can easily be tuned by me or a professional shop. Also, once I get a fuel man. system, I can get rid of the FMU, right? Any other suggestions? You guys are being pretty cool about the help. People over at Superhonda were being asses about things. Thanks!

Mad Cow

There are various fuel management options, you're better off searching this forum for advice on that as there's tons to be had.

The 310's are just plain adding too much fuel when you start the car, that's all there is to it. The way around that is better fuel management. You'll be able to get rid of the FMU once your engine management is intact... assuming you buy bigger injectors. 370's aren't gonna cover it either. I'd say 450s on the low side depending on the size of your turbo.

RAWB

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FASTEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

due to a broken antifreeze sensor, which I replaced but must have been a bad one, cause I'm still getting the same code), but anyways...</TD></TR></TABLE>


is that the same as the ECT sensor (engine Coolant Temp)?

If so that could be your problem. When the car is cold and is started up, until your ECT reads operating temp- 160 degrees your car stays in open loop. If your ECT is bad- it could be sending fugged up readings to your ECU.

integrx

try to reset the ecu, under the hood, pull out the "backup" fuse leave it out for about 10 secs, then put it back in and restart. if you have a radio code, you better remember it before you do this.

FASTEG

AWESOME! Now these are the answers/help I've been looking for! Everywhere else I've been, they've just fed me a "you should know what you're doing" line...sweet.

OK, first of all MADCOW, the 370's will be too small in the end with an fuel management system (FMS)? So real quick, does the FMU actually push the injectors harder than what the FMS would? And would the FMS help my car out when it's starting? My turbo setup is a T3/T4 Southwest Florida Performance stage 2 kit.

RAWB, yes and sorry. I meant an ECT sensor. I had a bad one, and then bought another, but apprarently it's messed up too. Of course, I didn't reset the ECU by pulling the fuse. I just disconnected the positive terminal for like 5 minutes, but maybe that's my problem. Which fuse is the "backup" fuse? I've never even heard about it.

And, Integrx, thanks for your input as well. and about the radio code, already taken car of.

Thanks guys! I'll let you know how this goes!

b18b1hmtlove

wow, so many problems with this setup....

Sell the 310's. buy some 450's. sell the FMU and the AFC. chip your ECU and install uberdata. go hit the dyno again and tune for 12:1 ratio at full throttle.

There is no reason to patch up that half assed attempt at a fuel management system. sell all that crap, buy the stuff that works and call it a day.

FASTEG

I'm planning on getting the 450's now. And just so you know, the FMU and AFC came with my turbo kit. I figured it would do fine, but apparently not. Chip my ECU and install uberdata? What is that and why? Why not just by an AEM EMS system? As far as the dyno A/F ratio, it was pretty close to 12:1. Just a couple more weeks and I'll have enough to buy the AEM, and the shop who built my motor is going to work with me on prices and dynoing since I've had so many problems. I'm just hoping I can find someone who knows how to tune well since I don't know of anyone, and the shop hasn't even touched an AEM System. Maybe I should just find someone else to do it all together, but who? Anyone know of a good tuning shop around Indiana? If so, let me know.

Thanks for the info, and I do agree, it was a half assed attempt for a fuel management, but I should've gone on and done more.