TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Dry oil sumps are a common thing. Nothing wrong with adding that for circuit racing. Great insurance.

Mjalaly

yeah I got a quote for that... $3833!!!! Not worth it to me. I might just design my own down the road.

Mjalaly

Waited a ton of time to get a used rear timing cover but it won't sit flat against the head and hits both cam gears. Guess it's no covers for now.

2kdrift

you need to install it just right its a bit tricky, I had that issue but finally got it snapped in properly

Mjalaly

Yeah I heated to make it work, then I found out that both of my front upper covers that i have are not for a b16 (b18 I suppose). Kind of ridiculous at this point. I just want to time her and move on.

Mjalaly

Finally, she is ready to drop in.

Mjalaly

Time to tune!!!! Well once I add fluids, start her up, drain the oil and schedule the tune.

Mjalaly

I was suppose to get her tuned tomorrow but work travel came up. Now I probably cant get it done until the end of June!!!! Damn it

Balor_Gr

I like it.
Looks crazy.

JDMarv

gotta do what ya gotta do my man!

Mjalaly

****! Since I had to cancel my tune because of a "get your *** out to Philly and save our customer" order from the boss, Mac Autosport is being shitty pants and doesn't want to reschedule the tune. So the only other place I might trust to do it is the boost creep and they are book until July 6th!! WTF!

I guess I wait.... which sucks a big one.

Mjalaly

Do you guys have any suggestion on a good E85 fuel detection sensor so that I can run both E85 and 91? I don't have the hondata v3 so I can't use the standard GM one.

this is the only one I can find
https://www.maperformance.com/products/zeitronix-eca-2-ethanol-e-content-analyzer-kit-with-blue-display-gauge?gclid=Cj0KEQjw9r7JBRCj37PlltTskaMBEiQAKTzTfJ ZcSYbmHMJlG2pS5QsUXUEJdQw9WLvGRO7sy4KFV5saAjSf8P8H AQ

Mjalaly

Car is back. The shop said it runs really well but i actually have not started it up (clutch hose is leaking) but i plan on doing so later today. They were able to also install the PLX AIT sensor so that i can look at the temp at the intercooler.

I asked them to do a very modest tune so its just running off wastegate pressure (7psi) because I want to put some miles on her first before turning her way up. 225whp is plenty in this car anyway for the time being.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Very linear, as expected w/ a Gen I GTX2867R. It's why a lot of circuit racers use these. Nice going. Seems like it's finally coming together.

Mjalaly

A lot of guys at the shop were jealous of the flat curve and yeah hopefully this one holds together!

I also am running the rev limit lower just in case. I'm not quite sure how to monitor the oil issue apart from data logging the oil pressure. Any other thoughts on what to do here?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Nope, not really anything you can do. I would only suggest that you look at oil pressure live while driving occasionally at different throttle levels, not just through the "logs".
when installed properly with the correct equipment, I've always said that the GT series (along with the other Garrett Ball-bearing & BW EFR Series) is a "set & forget" type of turbocharger. They may cost more, but they just work endlessly.
Now to make sure that the engine is solid from your assembly and break-in. that's it.

Mjalaly

there are several places to monitor the oil pressure on the engine but is one place better than another??

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I mean, really it's a matter of which area is more important to you. I find that the engine is moreso than the turbocharger. My mechanical gauge right now is at the cylinder head, but may go by my Canton oil pan tap with my newer build, to avoid engine slosh on the circuit, since that has become more of a concern in hard cornering vs. street use.

The oil pressure at the turbo will remain constant, and the DBB only needs 10-22psi of oil on a -3AN feed to work, vs. almost double that in a journal bearing turbo. So, that pressure has become less of a priority.

Mjalaly

I actually got to drive the car last weekend and the engine/turbo felt great. She started to overheat while I was driving her but i think that was from the radiator cap not being seated correctly. She drove fine on the way back after i adjusted the cap... apart from the rear wheel trying to come off! Made it home safe and sound but now i am in the process of replacing all the ARP studs, hubs and bearings on the rear uprights. It did some damage to the wheel lug holes too but i think a local shop can fix them with some inserts. If not I will need to find replacement which I haven't been able to do.

I still plan on taking her out this weekend and do some more testing and data logging, even if that means using my back up wheels.

DumpdEJ6

I just spent a couple hours reading this whole thread from start to finish. Someone else said it best, it's like a roller coaster ride, lol. I'm glad you've finally got it right. When I built my LS/VTEC engine, I knew I didn't have the money to rebuild it if it blew up, so as difficult as it was to wait and spend more up front, that's what I did. Buy once, cry once, as they say. Not that you didn't, I'm sure you had a similar amount of money in your first engine configuration as I do in mine. Another thing I did was countless hours of research agonizing over each and every part I put on, which it seems you've also been doing.

Anyway, I guess I don't really have any words of advice as you seem to have everything figured out, I just wanted to let you know that I'm happy for your success finally! Oh and take some videos.

Mjalaly

Like this?

DumpdEJ6

Hell yes like that!

Mjalaly

Right an update....

I was having some cooling issues, an issue with the car doing weird things (electrical) and the electrical power was randomly going out then coming back on. It looks like the cooling issue has been fixed after I bleed it 4 times with a lisle funnel. The power issue looks like its coming from a dead pole on the kill switch. I just moved that wire to another pole and it seems to have fixed it.

I put over 100miles on her yesterday without issue. The CEL did come on at some point but it didn't show up in either data logs which was weird. I will just need to see if it comes back on next time I am out.

With the outside temps yesterday around 90°, the scoop maintained the IAT temps between 109° and 115°. I'm not sure if that is good or bad but that's what it is...

The VSS on the datalog also shows me doing 150mph at some point (I wish) and I am not sure why. hummmmm....

The throttle is also sticking a bit initially when i put the pedal down. Its coming from the throttle body and lube only helped for a bit. I am going to try to source a new throttle body and maybe a prettier intake mani since I am going to leave the engine uncovered.

Here are some datalogs for you tuning junkies and some engine/carbon **** for everyone else.

2kdrift

pull the codes using the paper clip method, first guess would be heat protection which is implemented in the s300. Depending on what you have your overheat protection set to it will put the CEL light on when the temp is exceed it will show a code 11 when using paperclip

Mjalaly

Its a false reding in SDash. The CEL light comes on with the datalog is turned on (just a light, no actual CEL code) so I will need to fix that.

Otherwise everything is running good... ish. She still needs some more tuning in spots.

The transmission is a bit annoying on the highway, like driving it to work, but awesome for everything else... Mountain Slaying!. She runs at 5k rpm @ 75mph, but she isnt built for the highway right?!

The turbo will actually spool up in first gear so I have been cautious about that around town. That thing is loud too but I don't mind. Currently she is running up to 8lbs and I will need to look at what optimum is again before re-tuning her.

Cooling is also working great... maybe too great. She rarely goes to 200° (197° in traffic yesterday with 90° weather) which I thought was optimum for this engine. The track may be another story all together so I'm not changing anything yet.