Sim

a couple months back I had a problem with smoke coming out of the exhaust then it was finally turbo seals that went bad after 1000km, now... after 1000km again... I went to grocery yesterday and then the car started to smoke alot, enough so I couldn't see anything behind me so I went back home with all the smoke cloud going after me smoked looked white (it was night) so my first thought was blown head gasket but how this could happen I didn't went in boost. I just went to look at it there was some "yellow-ish" in the exhaust and part of the downpipe looks like having oil on it after the weld, there's oil on the downpipe to turbo flange, oil on turbo inlet, no more oil on the stick, rad is full of coolant.. the smoke smell like something was burning. I run a steathmode oil restrictor which is almost closed (it's ajustable). Here's the picture I took with my cell phone this morning (sorry for the size but maybe it can help having them not resized):











This would be 2 turbo rebuild in 2000km I don't know what to do really I've put so much money in this project and did not even went over a stock engine limit yet

current setup:

D16Z6 engine
D16Z6 Stock head
ARP head studs
D16Z6 Transmission
Bearing clevite 77
OEM head gasket
Wiseco piston .20 overbore
Eagle rod H-BEAM
Newformz Block Guard welded
450cc
Intercooler 30.5X12X4X3
Piping 2" 3/4
T-Clamps
Sillicone couplers
MSD 6AL
MSD 3 Step module
MSD RPM Activated module
Manifold ramhorn coated
APEXi N1 3" exhaust
Turbo T3/GT40 aka blowzilla
Wastegate 38mm
Heat wrap DEI
Oil feed -3AN with earl's fitting
Steathmode stainless oil return
Stealthmode oil restrictor
HKS Race Type II Blow off valve
Map 3bar
AllPerformance Catch can
TurboXS-HP Boost Controller
Walbro 255lph
P06 vtec converted
Remote IACV
APEXi Turbo timer
AEM UEGO Wideband
Autometer Boost gauge 30/30
Autometer Oil pressure
Autometer fuel press

vestalfootball72

post a pic of your oil return line--

Sim

it's -10an, I just took a picture with my cell phone, but I couldn't get the right angle so it looks more than a 90 degree bend but if you look at it with the pan angle it's less than a 90 bend.. and as you can see from the picture that's the best that can be done else I have no idea turbo sits low.

postman

try an oil restrictor

cjordan

iTrader: (1)

how many psi you running? that blow off valve is meant for high boost applications only as far as i was told. could it be compressor surge?? just a thought...

92HB_HB

X2.. it is most likely Compressor surge especially if its coming out of the comp side.. I had the same problem w/ a t3t67.. the turbo is moving too much air and your BOV can't relieve enough pressure to prevent the surge.

so either:

change the BOV or get a softer spring in the valve..

vestalfootball72

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by postman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">try an oil restrictor</TD></TR></TABLE>

read it again....

Sim

that's one of the thought I had, I was only running 6psi and yes there was compressor surge but I didn't think it would actually be that bad to blow a turbo up. I was also thinking of running without a resistor I've read at some place to not use a restrictor if using -3an feed. The turbo failed 2 times in less than 2000km so I'm thinking about trading my bov for ssqv and going with the -3an line with no restrictor. what is do think?

Sim

I forgot to post the picture of the downpipe flange, it's full of oil.

mrbsponge

1st, How much power are you making

2nd, what kind of catch can/ crankcase breathing system is on the car?

I went thru quite a few turbonetics turbos on a certain motor, found out that there was not adequate positive ventilation for the motor, and the amount of blowby the motor had. Long story short. i was pressurizing the bottom end and the oil was not draining from the turbo.

Turbonetics voided thier "1 year hassle free warranty" on me

Sim

it's only on wastegate spring (6psi) put down around 220-230whp according to trap speed, I have breather tank running from the black box behind the block and also routed the valve cover to the breather tank. No pcv valve, I put a nipple on where it's was plugged in the intake manifold.

coneheadsracing

You can temporarily put a clear braided hose on for a drain line to make sure it is indeed draining. However, being it doesn't do it for a while, i would rule that out personaly. For me if i have issues with it draining, it leaked oil instantly and only out the ehxuast side. How much shaft play does it have?

turbodano

It looks like the rubber line could be swelling from the oil and could cause a restriction and not let the oil back to the pan. (it looks like you are using heater hose for the return and that is not for oil.) Also the part where it goes back into the pan looks a bit small. The inside of the line should be no smaller than .500" and it does not look like it is at the pan.

hold your breath

Me personally, it might be your rings if you were low on oil. I was driving for 15-20min low on oil. When I shift to 3rd gear i saw white smoke behind me. Once I shifted to 4rd gear it was nothing but black smoke. Later, I pulled the heads and pulled out the pistons and piston 1 rings were gone.

Or make sure that your oil feed and return is flowing right because if not then pessure is going to build up a little and slide by the seals into the exhaust housing. And check your oil return gasket. It happen to my friend with his S2000.

Hopes this helps.

Sim

it's actually the same size that is on the turbo, it's "1 barb fitting and the line is for fuel it has reinforcement in it (nylon layer) I couldn't use the one coming from the stealthmode kit because whenever I tried to put it on it would have a kink. I'm not done pulling the turbo off, I've pull the downpipe and it smell nasty burned oil. and there's oil all over the place I mean ALOT of oil. it doesn't seem to have much shaft play tho, it's really cold outside I will pull it and take some other picture... when unpluging the drain line I will be able to see if there's still oil there if there's its mean it did backup but I'm pretty sure not. The engine has roughly 10 000km since the engine was built and 2 000km since it is turbocharged, this is going to be my second rebuild since then. I'm pretty sure the answer the is going without any restrictor plus using a bov designed for less boost, I wonder if I will be able to figure out the bugs and finally be able to make it see 15-18psi

coneheadsracing

If your building excess crank case pressure, it will take a bit to build up, and your oil will drain fine before and after you shut of the engine.

JaredKaragen

remember, if you have a wet-gfloating type turbo, it requires alot more oil than you'd think.

I run a T3/T04E with a 38" -3AN line, and an unrestricted inlet fitting. No problems, and it is a taiwanese turbo.

Second; where is your stealthmode restrictor located? if your restrictor is anywhere other than right at the turbo inlet you are asking for problems.......

Sim

yes its a wet-floating bearing turbo, the restrictor is behind the block not at the turbo inlet because it would not fit there for sure. My first idea is to run without a restrictor, turbo bearing failure looks like lack of oil pressure to me so next guess is going to run it without a restrictor to see if it doesn't break within the next 1000km.

DaveF

how much oil is in the engine, maybe you just have too much in there? (not letting the turbo drain back properly)

HiProfile

If its already fubar'd, I'd suggest you use your oil gauge to check the turbo's pressure. Get the fittings to tee it in after the restrictor, and rev it up past 4k once warmed up. I'm not sure the exact max psi for bearing turbos, but I thought it was no more than 30psi.

I'd give it a shot since you have nothing more to loose, and obviously have to find the solution before you can fix anything.

Sim

turbo is off the car now, it did such a mess, oil everywhere from everywhere of the turbo, inlet, outlet, etc...

This was the charge pipe


I will have alot of a mess to clean before putting back turbo on after the rebuild. I'm going to drop the turbo to Laboratoire Diesel by the end of the week. I'll keep you guys posted I know this could have happen to anyone.

Sim

I just called them, they said turbo is fine, bearing, seals, shaft are fine. I really don't understand what's going on

cjordan

iTrader: (1)

thats wierd!! i am going to take a guess and say your oil is not draining out of the turbo properly and its pushing through the seals.

DaveF

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sim &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just called them, they said turbo is fine, bearing, seals, shaft are fine. I really don't understand what's going on </TD></TR></TABLE>





<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaveF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much oil is in the engine, maybe you just have too much in there? (not letting the turbo drain back properly) </TD></TR></TABLE>

1. drain all the oil out, then put the plug back in the bottom of the pan

2. take the hose or fitting off the oil pan(your turbo drain,)
3. fill the oil up till it starts to drain out.
by this time you will know how much oil you can hold, with out going into the turbo line.

DaveF

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If its already fubar'd, I'd suggest you use your oil gauge to check the turbo's pressure. Get the fittings to tee it in after the restrictor, and rev it up past 4k once warmed up. I'm not sure the exact max psi for bearing turbos, but I thought it was no more than 30psi.

I'd give it a shot since you have nothing more to loose, and obviously have to find the solution before you can fix anything.</TD></TR></TABLE>