tclmember

So I'm trying to come up with a list of what I'll need. I'm creating an excel to just input the items, what I've bought, what I need to find, and their prices.

Goals: just around 250 whp. Stock h23a1. with around 140k miles.
Here's what I have so far, keep in mind it's all on stock internals:

F1 stage 2 clutch, 11lb flywheel-bought
RC 440cc or 550cc injectors - missing
TiAL 38 mm wastegate-missing
Walbro 255lph fuel pump-missing
BOV -TBD
Turbo charger- attached is the one I want, but it's subject to change. any thoughts?
IC&Piping by go-autoworks.com - missing
Downpipe go-autoworks.com -missing
Dumptube (Suggestions?) -missing
Oil Feed Line fast-turbos.com - missing
Log manifold (suggestions?) - missing

Anything else I'm missing? I heard of a catch can but I'm not sure exactly what that is. Or it's purpose.

Any input is appreciated.

Here is my list so far after a few changes

tclmember

Anyone?

boosted_D

iTrader: (1)

what will you use for engine management?

tclmember

Sorry, Forgot about a few things.

Tuning
I was planning on Hondata s300? for engine management.

Anything else?

boosted_D

iTrader: (1)

Sounds good.......

Personally Neptune RTP over Hondata but thats an individual choice, they both work well.

You will need an oil return setup, intake and or air filter for turbo, boost gauge, decent sized exhaust from cat back, also, wouldn't hurt on a motor with that many miles on it to pull the head and install a new HG, ARP head studs and a new t-belt/ water pump.

tclmember

What's the difference between the oil feed and oil return? it's not included in that whole kit?

Oh yeah air filter for the turbo,

Boost gauge, and oil pressure gauge perhaps, and A/F gauge?

2.5 exhaust maybe? Well I had the timing belt water pump changed not too long ago. Head gasket maybe I should repalce that, and the head studs? what exactly do they do?

tron_

1. The oil feed provides oil to the turbo CHRA. The oil is used to cool/lubricate the shaft connecting tht exhaust and compressor wheels. Generally this is a -3AN or -4AN line. You may or may not need an oil restrictor too. An oil restrictor is a fitting that goes between the feed line and the CHRA with a narrow orfice. The narrow orfice limits the amount of oil going into the turbo. Too little oil can cause coking and too much oil can blow the seals out on the turbo. The best way to see if you need a restrictor or not is to see what your peak oil pressure is and contact the manufacturer to see if that pressure is within the turbochargers specifications.

2. The oil drain line is usually a -10AN sized line that goes from the bottom of the CHRA to the oil pan. Since the turbo feed goes to the top of the CHRA, the oil needs a place to drain from back into the cars oiling system. People usually weld in fittings to their oil pan and connect the CHRA to the oil pan via a braided stainless line.

3. Boost gauge, oil pressure gauge, and wideband (air/fuel). These are three gauges that are HIGHLY recommended.

4. 2.5" exhaust will probably be fine, but personally I would bump it up to 3"

5. The factory head uses torque to yield bolts. These bolts are not reusable and clamp the head to the block. They are important because a lot of times the combustion event in turbocharged applications can cause the head to life for a brief moment. This is undesirable because coolant squirts out and can mix with the oil (bad). It also puts strain on the head gasket.

ARP head studs are reusable studs that provide additional clamping force so the head is securely fastened to the block. If you do install a set, make sure you check the head for flatness and if needed get it resurfaced. Get it resurfaced from a reputable plave, the finish should be almost a mirror finish on the head surface I've seen NAPA jobs come back looking gouged up and terrible.

tclmember

1. & 2. http://www.fast-turbo.com/products/C...-Line-Kit.html
does this include both the oil feed and drain?

3. I will add boost, oil pressure and AFR gauge to the list thanks!

4. Okay, I'll probably go with 3". How about an electric cutout, with stock exhaust?

5.Okay, that makes sense. Are the headstuds easy to install? I'm not very mechanically inclined, this would be my first install of anything major into my car.

I appreciate ALL of your help man thanks.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

If your not mechanically inclined, budget for somene or a shop to fab it all up.

Most of the time the intercooler piping needs adjusting and sometimes the downpipe also.

Since yur going for low numbers, a cutout isnt needed. but 3" is a good idea. Cheap 3" kit can be found here.

http://www.vrsexhaust.com/TUBING_KIT.../honda_tk.html

tclmember

Well I'm having a place called go-autoworks.com fab up the downpipe and the ic and piping. I'd give them specifications for the turbo, and I think i might purcahse the log manifold from them as well. I'm not too sure.

and Oh okay. that piping is a bit expensive? Couldn't I get some eBay piping, and get a vibrant muffler welded on?

What about a civic 1/2 radiator? good idea or not? would it be hotter than with the full size radiator?

Ben Huynh

iTrader: (6)

If you look for piping to go with a Vibrant muffler, make sure it's mandrel bent.

You would only look at a 1/2 size rad if you will be having space issues.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

IDK where you looking on ebay.. that piping is pretty cheap. comes with hangers, hardware and flanges.

Ive seen the same **** in the marketplace selling for 400-500 and kids buy that ****

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Only use a 1/2 sized radiator of good quality. don't resort to e-bay again.
The "tuner" log is the best to get for the budget, and is easily repairable if something were to happen.

Stick with a Garrett 4 bolt turbocharger. Stay in the 50 trim or 57 trim category and stay 4 bolt turbine housing.

My god.. its just IC piping. man-up and get the piping kit from ONE source so that you know it fits, that is of good material, and won't get crushed during install or boost. Why go to go-autoworks if you you're trying to cheap out?

Just because you want a low power number doesn't mean its ok to just get crap. even 1psi from an incorrectly installed setup can cause the motor to go POP..

Time to find a competent installer. You can learn on the next one once you know how this all works.

tron_

I wouldn't recommend an electric cutout for your setup, but that's just me. The reason is you don't want to make huge power and you're essentially adding a system that isn't 100% necessary. A well built 3" exhaust will not only flow great, but can be relatively quiet too (considering a turbo provides a good amount of muffling by itself).

The head studs are pretty easy to install, but like someone mentioned this depends on how mechanically inclined you are. You will need to take the head off the block in order to install them. Therefore the timing belt, water pump, exhaust manifold, power steering pump, upper radiator hose, etc will all need to come off. If this isn't your daily I'd say get some buddies over and make it a weekend project! It might sound like a lot of work but it's pretty straight forward, especially if you can find a good tutorial to follow online or a Honda service manual for the car.

As far as the feed/drain lines you posted, yes that is everything you need. However I wouldn't recommend buying that right away. Reason is that depending on your exhaust manifold and turbo combination, you may need to run a different fitting due to the angle you need to make a smooth oil drain configuration. I labeled the pic so my next couple paragraphs will make more sense (see pic)



1. -10AN (Army Navy) steel fitting
2. 45 degree NPT (National Pipe Thread) to -10AN fitting (forgot the size of the NPT side, I want to say it's 1/2" NPT though). This is a steel fitting.
3. -3AN turbo feed line
4. Flange gasket
5. Earls Swivel-Seat 45 degree -10AN aluminum fitting
6. Earls Swivel-Seat straight -10AN aluminum fitting
7. 1/8" BPST (male) to 1/8" NPT (female) fitting. Some people say you don't need this because "a 1/8" NPT fitting will fit in the back of the block" but this is NOT true. BPST threads and NPT threads are slightly different and you will get spiral leakage. See following pic to see what I mean:



8. 1/8" NPT to -3AN straight steel fitting
9. Brass "T" fitting* (see caveat at end of post)
10. 1/8" NPT to -3AN 90 degree brass fitting
11. 1/8" NPT to 1/4" NPT adapter
12. Aluminum drain adapter flange
13. -10AN braided stainless hose

Here's a quick drawing I made showing what goes where:


For example when I did my first build, I bought this exact kit. But it turned out I couldn't use the 45 degree swivel -10AN fitting (#5) or the 45 degree NPT to -10 fitting (#2). I wound up needing a brass fitting to go into the adapter flange (#12) and a 60 degree fitting to make a smooth drain line. So IMO mock up the turbo and manifold first and see what will fit best so you don't have to buy things twice.

*CAVEAT* Many people (including myself) are kind of hesitant to run this brass fitting on the back of our blocks. Yes it's been done many times without failure, but I have seen these brass fittings crack and fail due to engine vibrations. 4cyl engines naturally vibrate more than their the V6, V8, I6, etc counterparts. Also, I needed ports for my oil pressure and oil temp gauge so I devised a "distribution block" for oil. It is mounted remotely and therefore is resistant to breaking off fittings due to engine vibrations. Here's my setup:



And how it looks in real life:



The 90 degree 1/8" NPT to -3AN 90 degree fitting was replaced with a steel one

tron_

Sorry for the long *** post btw haha.

As far as the wastegate dump, you can recirculate it if you want a super quiet setup, or you can run a dump pipe straight off the wastegate. I prefer a dump to atmosphere because I love how it sounds when the wastegate opens, but I understand how people might want to recirculate to the downpipe (keep in mind the dump is only "loud" when the wastegate opens and you're in boost).

The log manifold is a good choice too. It is cheaper and due to it's cast iron design, they're good for longevity. The downside is they won't flow as well as a properly built schedule 10 tubular manifold but for your setup it will work just fine.

Finally, intercooler piping. Run piping off ebay. It's cheap and welds fairly well. Not to mention you will need to cut/reweld the piping to make it fit anyways.

tclmember

Okay, sweet. I'd have to get the turbocharger and manifold first to see if I have fitting issues.




Well, for exhaust piping, isn't it all the same? I might just end up getting it. I was thinking, for example, n1 style exhaust, cut off the muffler, and weld on a vibrant one to mandrel bent piping, that is.




Dfefinitely not going eBay. The ONLY ebay part I was asking for, was exhaust piping. I'm not cheaping out on anything BUT that. I was just asking if that's a good way to do it. Rather than spending almost twice or three times for simple piping.

Is the precision turbo I posted not a good choice? It's 4 bolt, and I believe 50 trim, as well. I was going with this, because I could get it for around 600 shipped. I thought that was a damn good price lol.

And it is from only ONE source. I was going to get the IC, and Charge pipes ( I believe that's what the IC piping is called) all from go-autoworks. Again, I'm not cheaping out on anything BUT the exhaust piping. BUt even then, I may just purchase the piping the fellow recommended up there.
I was also going to purchase the log manifold from them as well, and have them fab up the downpipe for that. But if you say the "tuner" one is better, I'll search up for that as well.

To be honest, I'd rather learn the install myself. Rather than having someone install it for me. At least then, I'd have somewhat of an idea what went wrong, rather than depending on someone else who might do a shitty job. I know you said competent, but I don't know of anybody nearby that does these sorts of things. I may have to ask around.






Ohhhhh okay! I see now. I'd purchase that later on to see exactly how I'd route the oil lines. Makes sense.

WHere exactly did you purchase that oil block thing. Sounds like a good way to install it. I appreciate ALL The pictures. It made it a little more clear as to what goes where, and how everything fits.

As far as the headstuds... I'll probably have the mechanic down the street do it for me. If he has time. I don't trust myself with that lol. And I'm not sure if any of my friends are able to do this sort of thing lol.

I'll prolly refrain from the cutout. As you mentioned, I'm not looking for that much power. It just seem like a cool idea, haha.



Nah man, I appreciate the time you took to help me out.

I'd probably run it into the exhaust system. I don't really want it to be THAT loud lol.

Yeah, I'd probably run the log manifold, just for clearance issues, and they are cheaper. I mean it won't make too much of a difference right, since I'm not trying to make that crazy of power.

I could go with that, but then I'd have to do a bit more modifying than I would if I went with go-autoworks, correct? I mean I'm not exactly sure how they make the piping if its all just one piece, or if they make it where I can use couplers and such to put it together. I'd have to ask


I really do appreciate all the info!

tron_

I actually had a friend make the oil block. It was a job I could have done but he had a piece of aluminum laying around so he drilled some holes in it for me.

What you could do is get an aluminum vacuum block off of ebay that has 1/8" NPT ports and just use that. That is essentially all mine is!

Regarding the IC piping, you are going to have to modify it wether you get the Go-Autoworks kit or an ebay kit. If you think about it, your IC, exhaust manifold, turbo compressor housing, intake manifold, etc would all have to be in the EXACT same place as their mock ups. And that simply can not be true because everyone runs a different manifold or turbo. After I got my ebay kit I just cut and taped the pipes together before bringing them to a friends house. He took the tape off and welded them together so now I have 5 couplers total on my car.

More couplers = more possible places for a boost leak so keeping the couplers to a minimum is a good thing.

Also, Go-Autoworks is a great place to buy stuff from. I've bought tons of stuff from Greg and I have nothing but good things to say about his company.

tclmember

Hmm, I actually might look into that then. this would be in place of the oil feed drain line kit from fast-turbo, correct?
Or I'm just completely off lol.

That's very true. Hmm, I might reconsider the intercooler piping then. I'll prolly just have him make the downpipe then, and maybe buy the manifold from him. and the intercooler. Or get the "tuner" manifold send it in and have them make the downpipe to fit that.

I never though of that. It is possible for more boost leaking.

Okay, that's good. I'm confident in purchasing things from them then lol.

tron_

If you run it how I made it you would need the following on the feed side:

-1/8" BPST male to 1/8" NPT female straight fitting
-1/8" NPT male to -3AN straight fitting
--3AN feed line (to go to the distribution block)
-1/8" NPT male to -3AN male 90 degree fitting
-Another 1/8" NPT male to -3AN straight fitting
--3AN feed line (to go to the turbo)
-Another 1/8" NPT male to -3AN male 90 degree fitting
-1/4" male NPT to 1/8" NPT female straight fitting
-Possibly an oil restrictor depending on your oil pressure and turbo

tclmember

And this is just for feed? How about drain?

And where can I purchase all those pieces?

tron_

For the drain you'll need to figure out what combinations of fittings will give you the smoothest transition for oil to flow. For me I used the aluminum drain adapter flange, a 1/2" NPT brass barb fitting in that. A piece of stainless connects the brass barb to a 60 degree -10AN swivel seat hose end fitting which connects to the -10AN steel fitting welded onto the pan.

edit: I bought most of my stuff from Go-Autoworks and everything else came from Summit Racing. They have a pretty well organized site when it comes to searching for fittings and stuff.

tclmember

Ohh okay, I'll just have to figure out all that then when I have everything set up. If anything, I might just end up buying the kit lol.

But Ima take my time and see how it all fits. I've been without my car since the beginning of June, and I just want it running lol. I'm supposed to get my clutch today or tomorrow. lol

tron_

Sounds good, good luck dude

tclmember

Thanks man. I just need feedback on the turbo. I've been tryna find the right one, and I was thinking the one I posted was the final one I wanted, until shogan said otherwise lol.

tron_

What's your hp goal?