booja

heres what i have:

h22a jdm closed deck
sleeved
wiseco low comp. pistons .04 oversized
eagle rods
ported head
and everything else

well heres the problem:
when i first got the turbo put on everything was working.
went to go tune my hondata and my turbonetics gate spiked and killed my motor (stock at the time)

then i rebuilt w/ pistons and rods (all else stock even head) went to the dyno and noticed vtec was not kicking in. threw a code for the pressure switch. changed and it went away. tested again and still not working also tried different solenoids. to test it i had the car on and warmed up then i disconnected the power wire from the solenoid and hooked it straight to a power source. it clicks but motor doesnt shutter like it should at idle when vtec is engaged.

so we pulled the valve cover off to check everything.. seems fine. still no worky.
so we pulled the head off and i notced my ctlinder walls got scarred up (i was running on a lean map or maybe the no sleeve forged piston in h22 thing got it) so i rebuilt again bored and honed out w/ sleeves .04 over. coated pistons, new rings bearings and all. then my friend had a spare h22 ported head laying there and since there was a vtec problem we might as well put this head on to solve it. i used everything that was on the ported head except the cams and gears and cam caps... i used those off my old head.

went to test again today and nothing... solenoid clicks and nothing happens. been 6 months and still have the same damn problem. please help

is it my cams... are they bad? did i get them mixed up w/ eachother intake to exhaust and vice versa or used h23 cams? (i dont think thats possible, dont think itll fit) do i have the wrong caps? what the hell is wrong w/ my motor

booja

help!?!?!?! anyone please

cha chi

did you inspect the cams when you took it apart. obviously they can be damaged when a motor goes. also if youve replaced the switch and solenoid check your wiring to see if something has come loose.

try plugging in a different ecu and what happens. does vtec work then? is your hondata working correctly

hondaguyexsi

how is it without vtec is it pulling very hard

prelittlelude

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by booja &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
when i first got the turbo put on everything was working.
went to go tune my hondata and my turbonetics gate spiked and killed my motor (stock at the time)</TD></TR></TABLE>

on a very well tuned car you shouldn't be able to "feel" vtec, especiall with boost. you often hear of shop owners who tune setting vtec engauge ment points later than they should be in order to get that "kick in" feel so the customer is happy.

if your uing a different head and you solinoid is good and presure switch its a wiring problem or a hondata configuration error

booja

maybe the cams got damaged... i just dont think it can get damaged enough to actually mess up the high lobes enough for it not to work. otherwise i would have seen it... but my looking at it w/ my naked eye it looks fine.

i checked all the wiring going from the ecu to the solenoid. theres voltage from the ecu going to the solenoid but nothing happens after that.

ive tries 2 p28's and a p30 w/ hondata and no vtec still

my car pulls hard as hell until like 5000-5500 then it just goes flat... takes forever to get to 7k even w/ boost.

as far as the tuning and wiring w/ the hondata i know vtec should be smooth but my car hasnt even had a real tune yet b/c vtec doesnt work.

jason (st00pid) is going through my car now. hes attempted to tune my car 3 times or so but the vtec never worked. everyone at the shop cant see why its not working.

booja

oh... on another side note

after it blew the first time another change made was that i had the secondaries removed from from the intake mani. and my knock sensor was yanked out, but i dont think i need knock since there is not a pin for it on a p28. i doubt the secondaries in the intake mani has anything to do w/ it.

booja

vtec still no worky... still need help from yall

booja

bump...

syndicate43

Have you checked to make sure you are getting oil pressure did. Did you or have you ever changed the oil pump on any of those rebuilds you did.

turboH22Aakkord

i dont' know if this is totally accurate, but have a jdm h22a swap in my accord and my knock sensor wire came loose and the car went into a kind of limp mode and vtec didnt' engage.. just a thought.. any progress with the problem?? good luck!

VTECsam

Yea maybe that knock sensor is MORE important than you think. Try to do a serch for how to wire it into that p28

prelittlelude

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboH22Aakkord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont' know if this is totally accurate, but have a jdm h22a swap in my accord and my knock sensor wire came loose and the car went into a kind of limp mode and vtec didnt' engage.. just a thought.. any progress with the problem?? good luck!</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTECsam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea maybe that knock sensor is MORE important than you think. Try to do a serch for how to wire it into that p28</TD></TR></TABLE>

there is no knock sensor on the p28, and even if this was an ecu that was looking for the knock it would just throw a CEL and add fuel and pull alot of timing. i would know because this is whats going on with me right now, and vtec STILL works.

check for proper oil presure at the head. verify that the solinoid works by taking it off of the car and using a 12 v source .

to check the machinics of the vtec. either consult your helms manul or looka round on how to do it. you add a air fitting to a plug you remove onhe side of the head next to the header, apply 40 to 70 psi while blocking the bleed hole onthe side of the cam cap and then rotating the engine by hand, and you have to do this obviously with the valve cover off, you might hear a tiny click as the air presure moves the pins in place and they look all 3 of the (brain fart i can't think of the name ..they pussh on the valves) but anyway all 3 will look to gether and be pushed down following the middle lob of the cam. i know this works this is how i have clayed my h22 many times.

if the mechanics work, the solinoid, and you have OIL presure up there, .. it could be your vtec oil presure switch is cloged or malfuntioning , or then its don't to a wiring and ecu issue

booja

went through it again...

so far it seems like its not getting enough pressure to activate the vtec or push the pins. theres enough to keep the head lubed.

anyone know what passages the oil takes to got there. i'm thinking its my pump... but i though it either works or fails... all or none.

one other thing that didnt get put back when my motor went together was the oil baffles... could that be it... i dont really know what those do. i just know they were lost in the process of putting my motor back together and i heard it wasnt important.

TeamCracka

Im having an identical problem.

I've tried a converted P06, a P28, and a P30 and none will activate VTEC.

I said **** it and have been using a VAFC to enable it at the same point I activate it in Uberdata.

speedworks

check that the oil pan has not been bottomed out on the ground. i worked on a customers of mines car for a week to finally figure out that the oil pan had hit the ground just enough to close up the gap between the pan and pick-up for the oil pump that it would not engage vtec. the pan should be flat on the bottom. just a thought.

Flr Power

Make sure the turbo oil supply line is not too big because it will drop the engine oil pressure and prevent VTEC from engaging.

TeamCracka

Also, just as a note if you're running Uberdata you can disable the sensor so it'll activate VTEC regardless of oil pressure in the head.