forbiddenera

So, we just threw a turbo on his 95 w 99 b18b1 EH2 hatch, I have the same car, same year and same engine/same year..

Just tuned it myself in ectune, pulls like a ****! I was gonna wait til I got Hondata in but ectune is actually pretty good.

He has a T3/T4 hybrid I believe? like a T40H with external wastegate.
XS Power BOV
XS Power 2 port wastegate
XS Power FMIC
RC Engineering 550cc Saturated Injectors
Manual Boost Controller set to about 5 psi peak, ecu-based EBC coming next week-ish.
PR4 ECU chipped and tuned with ectune tuner edition.

Now, I was going to buy a cheapebay turbo for now, but he has a TD05H sitting on the work bench and I may be able to snafu it for helping tune his ride.

Its got a tiny bit of shaft play but nothing serious, doesn't seem to be any in/out play just side to side. I'm a little worried about these lined bumps on the compressor side that almost look like cracks but don't, can't find any other pics of a TD05H with them. See pics.





Anyway, I don't yet have a manifold (at least for a B, anyone wanna trade my D series HF mani for a cheap b cast?) yet and I eventually will likely upgrade the turbo and I'd rather not rework everything.

So some thoughts, questions, feedback appreciated.

1. Can anyone suggest a manifold/adapter setup so I can eventually use either a v-band or t3 flange? Should I maybe block off the internal wastegate and use an external anyway? The internal is stuck right now anyway, lol.

2. My friends two port wastegate is hooked up at the bottom nipple from the boost controller. I've seen pics and read a lot of threads that have competing information. A lot of people say unless you have an electronic boost controller, to use just the bottom. Other people say either manual or ebc is fine like that. So, setup A has vac line coming from charge, to mbc valve, to w/g bottom nipple. Setup B has vac line coming from charge, tee'd into bottom nipple and mbc input which is then connected to the top of the w/g.

If I'm correct, the boost controller essentially bleeds off extra boost based off your chosen setting, so there may be 5 psi in the intake but the wastegate is only seeing 3psi so the spring opens 'later', in this example the difference is 2psi so for a 7psi spring, you get 9 psi peak boost, if it's connected to the bottom, its only acting against the w/g spring. Now if I move that to the top, and add a second line from the charge pipe to the bottom, the bottom part of the piston will see 5 psi while the top piston has a 7psi spring and 3psi pressure, causing the w/g to open a little slower and build boost earlier? But maybe also creating more in total?

With the mbc set to lowest setting, we're seeing 5 psi peak but boost isn't building as fast, this tells me the w/g is creeping open and if I crank it all the way up, we're seeing 8psi at 4400rpm and hit boost cut. What I'd like, and this should be way easier once I setup the EBC is less w/g creep I guess? I'd like (when mbc turned up a bit) to see 7-8psi at 4400 and HOLD that til red line, not keep climbing. I'd also like, when mbc all the way down to see 4-5 psi at 4400 and hold that til red line but when it's all the way down, I'm only maybe hitting 4-5 psi at red line.

3. He didn't have his BOV setup proper and wasn't working, fixed that kind of, still wasn't blowing off as much as I'd like, told him to turn it down a bit. How much surge is too much? I'd think any is too much, especially if it's audible. His vac line is also teed off to the mbc, which I told him to fix and move to somewhere before the throttle body so that the w/g doesn't slam closed when the throttle does, creating even more transient surge, I definitely heard this once today, surge just after throttle close and before blow off. Once the vac fitting on the BOV was fixed it did start blowing off and had less surge and kept more boost between shifts but there was still some chuffing which I'm attributing to 1. The w/g sharing a line with the bov & 2. the w/g not getting a line from b4 the t/b and after the i/c & 3 the bov being set too high?

4. Sort of unrelated, why does the b18b1 work so well so lean? Both mine and his idle smooth anywhere from 17 to 18, even close to 20 on his. Even in cruise, I can be pretty smooth around 16-17. Obviously full throttle on mine (n/a) hits like 14-13.5 and his (f/i) hits 12.5 to 12 on boost. Still tuning his AFRs a little, set my target to 18 idle, 14.7 light cruise and upto 12.5 on boost, seems pretty good.

If anyone wants, I can post some datalogs.

Also 5. Sort of unrelated again, I used to use a program (that I wrote) on my mbp which used the accelerometer to calculate acceleration and estimate HP, was pretty accurate. There's lots of apps for this nowadays and I have tried dyno master I think it's called, and maybe I need to tweak the starting settings but I'm having a hard time getting accurate-enough data from it. I even set the exact weight from a scale with both of us and laptop in the car and got the coefficient of drag and front area and still couldn't get reliable 1/4 times or #s.. anyone got suggestions? It even has a dyno graph thing which is cool but not detailed/accurate enough which is frustrating as I know the sensors in these devices are much more sensitive than the graph shows. It's as though the graph is interpolated over like 5 points in a beizer cipurve Please don't suggest a real dyno, it's the obvious solution of course and hopefully one day we can but for now, this is it. My only other idea is to calculate it from the dataloGS, eg, find a run in the log, see when it starts and ends and calculate the acceleration from the VSS over time.

2kdrift

Those look like casting flaws nothing to be worried about

1. there are adapters out there, honestly this always seems more trouble then its worth, then you still need to deal with the wastegate, weld it shut etc. a brand new T3 garret can be had for about $600 doesn't seem like you would be saving much money to justify the headache.

2. Sounds correct to me bottom port to boost controller

3. my BOV is hooked up after TB it works perfectly

4. hondas are very efficient motors, 14.7 is still target and I would aim for that (not a tuner)

forbiddenera

14.7 under boost is no good. It's not even best power for n/a. I have tuned more than a few cars and all the research I've ever done says to aim for a minimum of 13.5 in boost if not higher depending on the setup. Dunno where you got that. You're right that they're efficient though, I can easily run 17:1 on cruise perfectly smooth.

Searched today found adapters for the inlet and outlet for under 100 for both, if I get the turbo free, it should be worth it :-)

Already have everything else I need except a manifold, some pipes and an i/c. If I get a t3 or t4 mani, use adapters, all I have to do is swap the snail when zi get a better one.

2kdrift

when i said 14.7 I was referring to idle/cruising. my tuner recommends arround 12:1 in boost. again im not a tuner

forbiddenera

Lol yeah, wasn't clear. I usually aim for 14.7 idle/cruise depending on the clients requirements and engine. We have no emissions here so running leaner for fuel economy works out.