fergs96integra

hi i bought a used integra from a dealer and the more i learn about it the more i think it was at one point a turbo car.....their is an after market fuel pressure regulator on it and were i would believe the intercooler piping would be their looks to be some brakets of some sort and also the header bolts dont match a couple are different heads and all. and a couple other things i cant think of right now but you get the idea i was just wondering if their was anything i should look for or if their is any deffinate way to tell or any ideas you guys have for me thanks for your time.

lakai_19

just do a compression test and see how that is and if not pushing anyblue i wouldnt worry about the fact that it was turbo once befor but thats just me

fergs96integra

that would work thanks
id still like to see if the thing was turboed or not just for state of mind i guess

85

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fergs96integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that would work thanks
id still like to see if the thing was turboed or not just for state of mind i guess</TD></TR></TABLE>

ither way, you should turbo it yourself!

fergs96integra

few things need to be fixed before that
but yes been thinking about that for a while

kameleon23

see if maybe it has an aftermarket fuel pump like a walbro sittin in the tank.

SovXietday

Honestly... the easiest thing would be to pull off the front bumper and see if it's been cut apart on the inside.

Otherwise you're never really going to know for sure, just do a compression and leakdown test and see where you end up.

EJ1 wilcox

You could always check the oil pan and see if it's still tapped.

I found an older Civic at the junk yard the other day that had a tapped oil pan on it

I would do like already mentioned, do a compression test and if it checks out then don't worry about it. If the engine is healthy, then there was no harm done.

Oh, you could also check the ECU and see if it's chipped, socketed, or altered in any way. It's easy to return a chiped ECU to stock by clipping the J1 jumper.

fergs96integra

how would i know if its chipped and were is it located and whats the j1 jumper

JoePSI

Bracket is probably for a Cold air intake, most chargepipes dont have brackets. Bolts could be from headers and the fuel pressure regulator is a common all motor guage as well.

Do a compression and leakdown test.

Check the reinforcement and radiator support for drilled holes or cutouts that would show an intercooler would have been there.

See if the ecu is socketed (this is located at the back right of the ecu if you are looking at from the front [where the wiring harness plugs into]).

Socket without chip

Chip on top of socket (granted if its a turbo(crome, uberdata; etc) there wont be any sticker or label on it, just a normal chip, t

EJ1 wilcox

In the pic above with the Skunk2 chip, directly below the word "rev" there is a small wire that connects two points on the board, that is the J1 jumper... if you cut it, it disables the chip and returns the ECU to stock.

But I suppose these days many people are chipping ECUs for NA applications as well as turbo, so that may not be a good indicator of it's history.

JoePSI

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ1 wilcox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In the pic above with the Skunk2 chip, directly below the word "rev" there is a small wire that connects two points on the board, that is the J1 jumper... if you cut it, it disables the chip and returns the ECU to stock.

But I suppose these days many people are chipping ECUs for NA applications as well as turbo, so that may not be a good indicator of it's history. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I would not revert this ecu back to stock, if its chipped it may be for a reason and putting it back to stock could throw off your A/F maps.

Correct, You can also see if the injectors are differnt the stock. Most turbo cars are going to run 310's (come with most kits suchas drag, these are just bolt on and are harder to tell) but larger ones will run injectors that require a resistor box. If this is the case you will see the wiring cut and spliced into clips or directly into a resisitor box.

EJ1 wilcox

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JoePSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would not revert this ecu back to stock, if its chipped it may be for a reason and putting it back to stock could throw off your A/F maps.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh I agree. If it's not clipped, don't clip it.

I was just thinking about a car I sold a few years back. It was turbo for a year or so running Uberdata, and when I sold the car I took all the turbo stuff out, clipped the J1 jumper, and sold it with a stock running engine.

Of course, if I was smart I would have bought a stock ECU to sell with the car and kept the socketed one.

JoePSI

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ1 wilcox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh I agree. If it's not clipped, don't clip it.

I was just thinking about a car I sold a few years back. It was turbo for a year or so running Uberdata, and when I sold the car I took all the turbo stuff out, clipped the J1 jumper, and sold it with a stock running engine.

Of course, if I was smart I would have bought a stock ECU to sell with the car and kept the socketed one. </TD></TR></TABLE>

haha, yeah coulda saved yourself the time and frustration of socketing a new one, I paid to have mine done. 75$ well spent imo.

scartail

Maybe some block grinding for clearence... I did it for my setup.