Originally Posted by prahaian

Yea I didn't want to get anything good until I see how everything performed, but its better than a log

Originally Posted by prahaian

I wanted to get peoples comments and suggestions on my build, I will be using this car strictly for the track.

My comments are in blue only where needed

Its a 1997 acura integra gsr:
- fully gutted interior including dash guts and sound dampening removed
- b18c1 with 120k stock bottom end
- AEM stand alone computer
- skunk2 intake manifold and throttle body
- rc 550 injectors
- aem fuel rail and regulator
- pcv vented on block and valve cover with breather and catch can
- 9lbs flywheel with excedy stage 3 clutch
- innovative aluminum motor mounts
- ram horn header I've already addressed this
- turbonetics .63 t3/t4 turbo Any idea what size you're using here? with that "Ramhorn" manifold and an unknown size turbocharger, you may be hurting yourself for this purpose. But if this is all for now, so be it.
- oil cooler with -8an fitting and hoses Using -8AN is a bit on the small side for a proper oil cooler. -8AN sized lines on a turbo Honda or Mitsubishi actually puts a LOT of stress on the oil pump and will cause its early demise with a 120K pump. I recommend going to -10AN for your oil flow lines and make sure that the cooler itself is at least a 19 row with the oil inlet/outlets either at the top or the side of the oil cooler itself.

Also, don't make the same mistake I did by placing the oil cooler above the oil filter of the engine block. Just like with a turbocharger return line, it slopes the line upward, causing stress on the stock pump, and starving both the cooler and the engine of oil. Unless you're running a separate electric oil sump, the cooler need to sit at engine block level or lower.

- tial BOV and wastegate
- 3 inch exhaust with magnaflow muffler

- wildwood big brake kit -What are you doing for pads? Brake fluid? Rear caliper equipment? Its best to keep a stock proportioning valve if using stock rear Integra calipers and a Willwood kit

- stainless steel lines ok.. where?

- adjustable struts front and rear

- front and rear strut braces
- front and rear sway barsf
- soon to buy new 17 inch rims (15 inch rims don't fit) and r888 toyo tires

- soon to buy itr lsd

If you're circuit racing, its best to use something outside of the OEM LSD which was not made really for circuit racing, especially if this is strictly a circuit car. You of course have your choices of LSDs, but the OEM won't cut it for the circuit...

Here's a great link to some information of various type of LSDs, and which ones would better meet your needs. Most hondas had a Torsen differential that only works when the wheels are slightly turned, otherwise it acts as an open differential. With a turbocharged application, a Helical is perferrable over a Torsen (Like a Wavetrac or Quaife), but a Mechanical differential is optimal (Like a Cusco 1.5way or Kaaz 1.5way)

Limited Slip Differentials
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limited-slip_differential



- soon to make a lower bumper splitter and canard splitter taking off the lower splitter didn't fit made for a 98-01

Making one is just fine, but if you want something a bit more functional and still flexible enough for that, check with Special Projects SMS

http://www.specialprojectsms.com/

Originally Posted by wantboost

that manifold WILL crack. It's just a matter of when, especially when dealing with the violent environment on a track, vibrations will kill it quickly. don't be amazed if your wastegate falls off entirely and the turbo does the same


look for a quality ramhorn or miniram, you could even find a decent quality one used in the marketplace. you'll want a unit made from sch.10 weld els unless you can find a true tubular manifold and fabricate a proper turbo brace to keep the manifold in one piece.

as far as brands... full race, afi, go-autoworks, rld, blue ridge motorsports, rc autoworks, neukin, lovefab, plus many others all make quality manifolds and stand behind their product and warranty. however cost does vary between companies depending on the runner diameter, flange options, divided/undivided, and which company you choose (larger shops have more overhead, hence higher prices)


This is very true. I've seen many a driver go home with head hung in shame from a poorly build exhaust manifold for their economically built circuit race car. It not only will cause possible damge to your car, but with a failed gate coming off, could destroy someone else's car as well even if not in the same session. OP, do yourself a favor, and let's look into manifolds for this purpose.


the kaaz LSD is a clutch type, not that great for circuit racing as its lockup is fairly violent.

No disrespect, but This is where you're completely off on how the Kaaz and Cusco work for the circuit. They were specifically designed for circuit racing, and there is no violent reactions except in slow turns on the street when the oil isn't up to temperature. That's for about 2-3 minutes. After that, the engagement is completely flawless and when properly selected, (I suggest the 1.5-way over the 1-way), a lot of inherent understeer is eliminated, full grip is utilized on sharper turns, and with right rear sway bar used, a natural oversteer will occur. 100% lock is NOT THE SAME AS A WELDED "SPOOL" that is used in drag racing. Please look at that link , but the purpose of the 1.5-way to assist with transmision engagement on deceleration as well as acceleration (unlike the 1-way). This is why they were designed, developed an still used fanatically in Time Attack and HPDE events.


not to mention the special oil you have to run, the break in procedure etc.

Once again, That's only during the first part of the installation. The special Grade Level 5 oils are abundant in many forms (it no longer has to be from the specific company) and contrary to popular belief, does not have to be changed every oil change at all. In fact, in some cases, I've been able to filter any contaminants out of the oil and REUSE it, after over 2 seasons of use. The main part of the special oils really are the frictioin additives that have to be used for the clutch plates, but that's very easily overcome.


they are great on rwd drift cars but on a fwd car for circuit racing you need a helical torque biasing diff, like the OEM unit, quaife, wavetrac, etc. no plates to replace and change based on how you want the unit to lock up... no special fluids, break in, etc.

Again, incorrect. Helical and Clutch differentials can both be used, but OEM is not the best choice at all. Even in Group N racing from over 15 years ago, Clutch type LSDs are still used. read that article again.


the helical diff is an install and forget kinda deal and you'd be hard pressed to damage or break one.

The same can be said for the clutch LSD, however the Helical is more used inline for that are going for a street/ circuit application. For those serious into racing, clutch types are used more often than not. As a user of clutch LSDs for ALL of the cars (save my TSX), its not a bad way to go, but the misconceptions like the ones stated have to be eliminated.

Originally Posted by prahaian

yea I was looking and some people are really proud of their manifolds, I guess ill just have to do a little more research on pros and cons of each.

Its ok. No one said that it was an easy choice, but going for the most popular "style" of manifold doesn't mean its the right choice. Ironically, the good manifolds used for circuit racing are not as expensive as you think. Stick to the simple styles from Spoolin' Performance, Go-Autoworks, and JDL Auto Design, for the best cost/design cues

That's the hard thing with forums is one guy says one thing and the other says another. The only thing about 16s on the triple 8's is that the side wall is kinda high.

Correct. This also can keep tyre width choices lower. I'd stay with the 17" as your original choices. There's nothing wrong with a 17" for time attack on a DC2, in fact, that's actually rather common over the 15" common ones that are used on Civics and Del Sols.. If you have the right brake upgrade, (which I believe you have ) on a 12.2" or 12.9" rotor, you'll be seriously good braking, but I would suggest against the 40/40 proportioning valve if you're using stock OEM rear calipers. That causes the car to "dog leg" a lot, and your brake bias becomes rather screwed.. Go back to the standard proportioning unless changing rear calipers to a willwood setup.

I ran hawk blues on my last event and they seem to do good but I don't know how long they last. What kind of composite would you recommend??

Blues won't cut it. I'd look to Colbalt Friction XT2 or Carbotech on pads when doing this. The HP+ is squeaky but works for a bit more longevity if you decide to stay with Hawk.