Tuner Toy Rod Fitment Question *ASAP*
06-30-2006, 10:05 AM
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Tuner Toy Rod Fitment Question *ASAP*
could anyone shine some light on these rods. i was installing them last night and when i went to go put the rods into the block (d16) the rods are wide and it wont go down the cylinder. in the pic below i circled the area and colored the area that is hitting the cylinder wall. has anyone else had this problem? on the TT site it says "You may need to file .01mm from the sides for best fitment. " but is that refering to my problem? thanks!
on the rod it say 5494. is that a part number? did TT send me the right rods.
on the rod it say 5494. is that a part number? did TT send me the right rods.
06-30-2006, 10:17 AM
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no i believe it has to be put in from the top. and its all notched and ready to go. there's no way it can be put in from the crank side, because you have to use the piston ring compressor type thingy so you can slide the rings into the cylinder. if that makes sense.
06-30-2006, 11:33 AM
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Re: (muasboi)
Yeah that is what they are referring to. If I was in your situation, I'd just return those rods or sell them on Ebay and get some Eagles. Its not worth the trouble.
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06-30-2006, 02:41 PM
#8
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Re: Tuner Toy Rod Fitment Question *ASAP* (muasboi)
Unless there's been a product update, they sent you the wrong rods. My d16 tunertoys rods are clearly marked 5394. They installed without any clearance problems you are describing.
06-30-2006, 06:40 PM
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Re: Tuner Toy Rod Fitment Question *ASAP* (muasboi)
Hey Guys,
Just thought we would post some replies to your comments...
Musaboi - The area you are referring to, is the area that needs to be filed. These rods sometimes measure at just over 75mm, and that makes them just a bit big to fit in the bores. Be sure to take off equal amounts from both sides, and from all rods.
Tilt - Thanks so much for your good words, and thanks for purchasing our products.
DaveG - We kind of agree about these rods sometimes not being worth the extra work. We've thoght several times about discontinuing them, but they are a string selling product for us. Everytime we run out of them, our customers demand more. We have had very few complaints, and only a few returns.
Earl - Sorry but they are not B series rods. (Thanks for trying to be helpful.)
All - If anybody is ever unhappy with our products or our service, please let us know. We value you guys, and want to be know for our excellent customer service.
Just thought we would post some replies to your comments...
Musaboi - The area you are referring to, is the area that needs to be filed. These rods sometimes measure at just over 75mm, and that makes them just a bit big to fit in the bores. Be sure to take off equal amounts from both sides, and from all rods.
Tilt - Thanks so much for your good words, and thanks for purchasing our products.
DaveG - We kind of agree about these rods sometimes not being worth the extra work. We've thoght several times about discontinuing them, but they are a string selling product for us. Everytime we run out of them, our customers demand more. We have had very few complaints, and only a few returns.
Earl - Sorry but they are not B series rods. (Thanks for trying to be helpful.)
All - If anybody is ever unhappy with our products or our service, please let us know. We value you guys, and want to be know for our excellent customer service.
06-30-2006, 11:57 PM
#13
Re: (Muckman)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Take the crank out and install the piston/rod assembly from the bottom.</TD></TR></TABLE>
the pistons won't fit from the bottom. You're not talking about notching the block are you? Because you have to notch the bottom right below the bore as well.
As far as keeping them in hand because of demand, I'd opt to discontinue them and have no furious customers later in the future.
the pistons won't fit from the bottom. You're not talking about notching the block are you? Because you have to notch the bottom right below the bore as well.
As far as keeping them in hand because of demand, I'd opt to discontinue them and have no furious customers later in the future.
07-01-2006, 02:41 AM
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nope, not talking about notching. this is installing it from the top. but like TT said already i'll have to shave off some material from all the rods to make it fit. no big deal, it'll just be time consuming.
07-01-2006, 06:59 AM
#15
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Re: Tuner Toy Rod Fitment Question *ASAP* (TunerToys)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TunerToys »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Musaboi - The area you are referring to, is the area that needs to be filed. These rods sometimes measure at just over 75mm, and that makes them just a bit big to fit in the bores. Be sure to take off equal amounts from both sides, and from all rods.</TD></TR></TABLE>What kind of quality control is there if the rods are only sometimes the wrong size?
Grinding material in the area around the bolt can weaken the rod and certainly throw them out of balance.
B18a and D series rods have the same length (5.394") and the same big end diameter. The major difference is the size of the bushing in the small end. The pix that Musaboi posted appears to be a B series where as the pix further down had a much larger bushing for the D series.
Grinding material in the area around the bolt can weaken the rod and certainly throw them out of balance.
B18a and D series rods have the same length (5.394") and the same big end diameter. The major difference is the size of the bushing in the small end. The pix that Musaboi posted appears to be a B series where as the pix further down had a much larger bushing for the D series.
07-01-2006, 07:11 AM
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Re: (Mykizism)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mykizism »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats weak... to have to buy rods, then file them? waste of money and time..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not as weak as starting out with a fragile engine and wrong wheel drive. Honduhs, perfect example. It took more work to fit LS rods into my D16. How's that for a dose of perspective?
Good luck with trusting aftermarket rods to be correctly balanced in the first place, regardless of brand. Mill them down a hair, rebalance them, and hit the road.
Not as weak as starting out with a fragile engine and wrong wheel drive. Honduhs, perfect example. It took more work to fit LS rods into my D16. How's that for a dose of perspective?
Good luck with trusting aftermarket rods to be correctly balanced in the first place, regardless of brand. Mill them down a hair, rebalance them, and hit the road.
07-01-2006, 07:51 AM
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Re: (Joseph Davis)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Not as weak as starting out with a fragile engine and wrong wheel drive. Honduhs, perfect example. It took more work to fit LS rods into my D16. How's that for a dose of perspective?
Good luck with trusting aftermarket rods to be correctly balanced in the first place, regardless of brand. Mill them down a hair, rebalance them, and hit the road.</TD></TR></TABLE>
reality check. haha... oh i love it!
Not as weak as starting out with a fragile engine and wrong wheel drive. Honduhs, perfect example. It took more work to fit LS rods into my D16. How's that for a dose of perspective?
Good luck with trusting aftermarket rods to be correctly balanced in the first place, regardless of brand. Mill them down a hair, rebalance them, and hit the road.</TD></TR></TABLE>
reality check. haha... oh i love it!
07-01-2006, 08:25 AM
#18
Re: (paul vang)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by paul vang »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the pistons won't fit from the bottom. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You guys need to think outside the box more. Take the piston with rings, compress with spring compressor, insert piston from top. Push it all the way down the cylinder to the bottom so the pin boss is exposed yet the rings are still in the sleeve. Take your rods in from the bottom, slide the pins in and insert the clips. May need to rotate piston to get a better angle to work on the pin but I think it could be done and you wouldnt have to file anything.
You guys need to think outside the box more. Take the piston with rings, compress with spring compressor, insert piston from top. Push it all the way down the cylinder to the bottom so the pin boss is exposed yet the rings are still in the sleeve. Take your rods in from the bottom, slide the pins in and insert the clips. May need to rotate piston to get a better angle to work on the pin but I think it could be done and you wouldnt have to file anything.
07-01-2006, 08:27 AM
#19
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Re: (Muckman)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You guys need to think outside the box more. Take the piston with rings, compress with spring compressor, insert piston from top. Push it all the way down the cylinder to the bottom so the pin boss is exposed yet the rings are still in the sleeve. Take your rods in from the bottom, slide the pins in and insert the clips. May need to rotate piston to get a better angle to work on the pin but I think it could be done and you wouldnt have to file anything.</TD></TR></TABLE>
They should include that with the instructions with the rods. lol
I think i'd get some new rods, it's very likely that this is just the beginning of the problems with these rods...
You guys need to think outside the box more. Take the piston with rings, compress with spring compressor, insert piston from top. Push it all the way down the cylinder to the bottom so the pin boss is exposed yet the rings are still in the sleeve. Take your rods in from the bottom, slide the pins in and insert the clips. May need to rotate piston to get a better angle to work on the pin but I think it could be done and you wouldnt have to file anything.</TD></TR></TABLE>
They should include that with the instructions with the rods. lol
I think i'd get some new rods, it's very likely that this is just the beginning of the problems with these rods...
07-01-2006, 09:16 AM
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Re: (tony1)
wow. I was really thinking about these rods. But if the actual company said that they have thought about dicontinuing them beacause of 2quality I'll spend the extra $75 and get some eagles/
07-01-2006, 02:50 PM
#23
Re: (Joseph Davis)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Not as weak as starting out with a fragile engine and wrong wheel drive. Honduhs, perfect example. It took more work to fit LS rods into my D16. How's that for a dose of perspective?
Good luck with trusting aftermarket rods to be correctly balanced in the first place, regardless of brand. Mill them down a hair, rebalance them, and hit the road.</TD></TR></TABLE>
that doesnt give me any perspective at all.. u put ls rods into a whole different engine.. that guy bought rods that were supposivly for his motor.. and they dont fit.. thats a whole other story..............
Not as weak as starting out with a fragile engine and wrong wheel drive. Honduhs, perfect example. It took more work to fit LS rods into my D16. How's that for a dose of perspective?
Good luck with trusting aftermarket rods to be correctly balanced in the first place, regardless of brand. Mill them down a hair, rebalance them, and hit the road.</TD></TR></TABLE>
that doesnt give me any perspective at all.. u put ls rods into a whole different engine.. that guy bought rods that were supposivly for his motor.. and they dont fit.. thats a whole other story..............
07-01-2006, 08:54 PM
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Re: (Mykizism)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mykizism »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that doesnt give me any perspective at all.. u put ls rods into a whole different engine.. that guy bought rods that were supposivly for his motor.. and they dont fit.. thats a whole other story..............</TD></TR></TABLE>
Speaking from experience, I'd rather have the TT rods than LS rods in a D16.
Muckman FTW!
Speaking from experience, I'd rather have the TT rods than LS rods in a D16.
Muckman FTW!
07-02-2006, 09:07 AM
#25
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Re: (Muckman)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You guys need to think outside the box more. Take the piston with rings, compress with spring compressor, insert piston from top. Push it all the way down the cylinder to the bottom so the pin boss is exposed yet the rings are still in the sleeve. Take your rods in from the bottom, slide the pins in and insert the clips. May need to rotate piston to get a better angle to work on the pin but I think it could be done and you wouldnt have to file anything.</TD></TR></TABLE>I will definitely pay to watch you accomplish this task.
You guys need to think outside the box more. Take the piston with rings, compress with spring compressor, insert piston from top. Push it all the way down the cylinder to the bottom so the pin boss is exposed yet the rings are still in the sleeve. Take your rods in from the bottom, slide the pins in and insert the clips. May need to rotate piston to get a better angle to work on the pin but I think it could be done and you wouldnt have to file anything.</TD></TR></TABLE>I will definitely pay to watch you accomplish this task.
