aleks77

i just read the article about how to break in your engine, and i couldnt really understand if it was specific to turbo'ed cars with new engines or not. I have a fully built motor that i wanna run as is, with no turbo, do I have to get it tuned before i can drive it?

My car is a 92 accord, with an f22a6, 8.8:1 compression, wiseco custom 85.5mm forged pistons, eagle H-beam h22 forged rods, fully built head with custom fitted RSX Crower titanium retainters and dual springs, delta 282 cam etc.

Below is the article;

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=878397

96vtecI4

Always recommended to tune for the break in then re-tune for the turbo. you have to remember your ECU is set for your stock engine. since thats no longer what it is, theres a chance it could blow.

Speed Infliction

do it once do it right. that is a good moto to go by. that speaking, just wait until your turbo is on and break it in on the dyno. best thing to do after you spent all that money.

aleks77

thats a good idea, i never thought of it that way. Only thing sucks about that is i gotta wait till i can purchase the rest of the turbo parts, while the engine is already done and i can drive it.

I kinda wanted to put the engine in first, see if it runs if there is any problems, then do the turbo after because if i put engine + turbo on at the same time, thats like double the problems might pop up and you dont know if its the turbo or the new motor causing it. Make sense? lol

Daniel Thao

Have you done it yet? I want to do the same, fully built engine and turbo after, but dont know if I need a tune for the low compression and stage 2 turbo cam inside the engine? I want to do the same, break in process first and then turbo just for the engine's safety. Did you go with the turbo first and break in on the dyno? I know its been awhile if I could get an answer that would be great thanks in advance!

DaX

iTrader: (1)

It's a 13-year old post, and the user has not visited the forum in almost 4 years - likely to not get a response. This thread is also likely to get locked...but I'll try to post an answer before that happens:

I did what the thread-starter was suggesting in his first post - built the engine then broke it in and drove it for a few months on the stock ECU (with stock injectors and stock MAP sensor). I kept my compression roughly the same on mine, but did swap to an aftermarket cam. It would be ideal if you tuned after break-in / before turbo since you're not running stock compression or cam, but it shouldn't be a show stopper if you don't, and I wouldn't blame you...no way I'd want to pay a tuner twice.

JRCivic1

Nobody wants to pay a tuner twice... but it is WAY better to spend a few hundred bucks on a tune to help insure the engine survives than sacrifice a couple of thousand dollars trusting a built engine to the OEM ECU program. The farther you go away from the stock specifications (compression, cam profile, combustion chamber size, displacement, cylinder head work, intake and exhaust flow restrictions, T/B size, etc.), the more potential for engine failure exists with the stock ECU.

highschooler

Right, if you are lower than stock compression ratio, only .5 mm overbore, no cam/intake manifold, and stock exhaust, you might be OK using the stock ECU just to get the car started.
But, you are BETTER off getting a basemap for the engine specifications you have so that there is approximately the right amount of fuel and ignition timing is accurate.
So, it depends how far away from stock the "built"engine is, and the further away from stock, the more likely you'll need a basemap from Hondata or equivalent tuning device.