Balor_Gr

Biggest i saw with .63 / gt35 93octane(100eu) combo was 500 or 550whp on a 84mm b16 from a person i know here at Greece. It would not go higher.
I know big numbers can be made with small turbine housing big turbine wheel combo it happens to be what i like actualy.
A custom s200/300 combo we did here on a subaru with ~60 a/r turbine housing with the schwitzer 65mm turbine wheel and 7+7 64mm compressor hit like 750whp on race gas
I made a speculation about a china/immitation .48 housing not .63.
.48/bad design housing on gt35 would flow around 20lbs/min or less.
On a 9:1 81mm b16 on 93, depending on dyno, maxing at 480 whp looks legit for a 20lbs/min turbine side.
Again it was just a speculation.

If you are not very sure about the turbo machinist send it to be checked on a another machinist.. I know a few. Send me a pm if you like.
Most times when they F up they dont admit their mistake.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I follow what you mean now.. it always takes a little additional info to get your meaning ( I know English is probably one of several languages you know; hard to speak much less type it too, so kudos for that, mate )

Balor_Gr

Its ok most of the times i post during office time and many times i type with leaving too many things just in my mind.
It happens alot.

fotis2000

Finally intercooler looks ok I put a boost gauge before cooler and after cooler and pressure is the same...next test an other gt 3582 turbo.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Now, you're going to see some pressure leaks in the turbo itself, is designed to have some bleed off during an air pressure test. It's the air flow conversion rate during engine load that tells the real story.

Just make a note of that...

fotis2000

motoxxxman

The turbo is not your problem. The fact you were able to raise the boost at all is evidence of that.
I'm telling you, throw some higher octane fuel in it and re-tune it. You'll be surprised at the results

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Turbo can be a factor. The turbo may be functional, but not efficient, when it increases boost pressure.

Txdragon

Gt3582 compressor map.. Looks to be pushing past efficiency at 25psi. Not as bad as bumping to say, 30, but still.

Balor_Gr

Shodan might be correct.Blade design might be way off.
Noone uses the a genuine GTX compressor wheel when he converts from GT35 to billet whatever right?







Do this and pressurize everything.
Sometimes leak in the intake manifold were it meets the head at the flange is hard to notice.
You may have leak on the turbo its self on the backplade or something.

Google " ταπα valsir " and get the correct size.
Just dont me this is not a mustang dyno! haha. Your tuner didnt hear any knock with the acoustics at higher boost right?
I would also check cam timing. Maybe one of the cams is wrong and the engine has too much overlap ?
Im getting out of ideas...

motoxxxman

I think you might be reading the compressor map wrong.
13psi at 450hp is at 78% efficiency
20psi at 480hp is at 78% efficiency
25psi at 475hp is at 78% efficiency
25psi at 550hp is still high at 76% efficiency, and at 600hp is still high too at 74% efficiency

Txdragon

While still ok, it's off the center island. Meh, potato - potahto.. Efficient though not optimal is maybe what I might have said? Not a tremendous jump either way. Would explain why lower pressure performs better than highest. It's ONLY a 5hp drop on 5 psi. It is also a drop on the compressor map. I don't know if THAT makes much a difference, but I'm just showing what stares him in the face here. **shrug**

motoxxxman

The island just means peak efficiency. The difference between 78% and 76% just means IAT's will be 3-5 degrees F different, and exhaust pressure will be a tenth of a psi or so different. Barely measurable in any other way. Below 70% you'll start to see some minor power differences. But it's not until you go below 65% (or outside the surge lines) that you start running into problems.
Anything above 75% is considering excellently ideal. And above 70% is still considered well usable. Hell, I'm making 440whp (~500 crank hp) out of a turbo that is supposed to max out at 350hp. I'm below 60% efficiency in mine in higher rpm's. IAT's climb fairly rapidly, but it still makes the power perfectly fine. And it's not even a BB turbo

Txdragon

Great info, thanks! I didn't think 2% would be a major problem, Ya never know! With my issue I had mentioned earlier in the thread, the SR that I was having efficiency problems with; did the same thing here. I think I was well into the lower 60% range though. Anywho.. Again, good info given!

fotis2000

Txdragon

so the turbo was goofed?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Was it a Genuine Garrett GTX, or a GT3582R with a knock-off wheel? What was the source of the turbo, please? (No judgement, I promise )

fotis2000

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

where did the knock off wheel come from? Did you install and have it balanced yourself?

fotis2000

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Umm.. Ok. No such thing as an "authorized" knock-off specialist. That implies that Garrett authorized the design of the wheel. Which.... doesn't happen..

But whatever, as long as you feel you've solved the issue.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Umm.. Ok. No such thing as an "authorized" knock-off specialist, for a genuine knock-off. That literally makes no sense.
That implies that Garrett authorized the design of the wheel. Which.... doesn't happen..

But whatever, as long as you feel you've solved the issue.

fotis2000

Balor_Gr

I think he is trying to say the shop was working on garrett turbos.
Id bet they overdid the lateral clearance on the compressor housing.

motoxxxman

I run knock off billet wheels in my turbos too. Specifically Kinugawa and Mamba. They actually work amazingly well, and they come component balanced. I had my turbine wheel component balanced a long time ago. Threw the assembly on a balancer, and it was darn near perfect, didn't even touch it. Destroyed the compressor wheel when it sucked my screen in, bought new wheel, threw that assembly on the balancer, again was nearly perfect so I left it. I run mine well over 175k rpm, and it's journal bearing with a 360* thrust bearing. Zero issues, and I currently make 440whp in a turbo that's supposed to max out at 350 crank hp. Which I know to be true, because that's the whole reason I bought the billet wheel to begin with. Couldn't get over 310whp no matter what I did. Bought a drop-in billet wheel, boom, 400+ right off the bat. Turbo is a water cooled Garrett 60 trim T3 with 0.63 a/r 5-bolt housing, oem turbo from the 80's SVO mustang, and it has over 350k miles on it currently in total between my car and the mustang it came off of. I've put new bearings and seals in it 3 times.