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A few years back when I blew the head gasket I was thinking about getting out because I had been having issues with the car running right prior to losing the hg. I have since figured the problem was likely the GSC cams were not at true 0,0 due to head and deck being shaved. If I had degreed them the car probably would have been running good. I went back to the S2 Tuner1s and car has been running good from that point.
I'm pretty much done with making changes to the car but I will never get rid of it, well unless someone were to make me an offer I couldn't refuse (which I think is rather unlikely). I want to work on my next project now and just be able to enjoy the teg.
I have an '86 Mustang GT that is just asking for a Coyote swap. Have already made some improvements to the suspension and it handles much better. It's amazing how easy it is to control in a powerslide. Would make an awesome drift car with moar power. Also my wife has a 2001 Impreza 2.5 RS that she wants to swap a newer WRX drivetrain into. She's put up with my antics with the teg for years (which she has admittedly enjoyed and learned from) but I know she wants to build up her car a bit. She doesn't want anything crazy but wants it to have a little more power.
I have an '86 Mustang GT that is just asking for a Coyote swap. Have already made some improvements to the suspension and it handles much better. It's amazing how easy it is to control in a powerslide. Would make an awesome drift car with moar power. Also my wife has a 2001 Impreza 2.5 RS that she wants to swap a newer WRX drivetrain into. She's put up with my antics with the teg for years (which she has admittedly enjoyed and learned from) but I know she wants to build up her car a bit. She doesn't want anything crazy but wants it to have a little more power.
coyote swap = serious $$. Junkyard 5.3 or 6.0 LS swap with a turbo or even 2 turbos gets my vote haha.
Coyote swap is easy and my plan is to get a junkyard truck motor, rebuild it and use better heads and such.
As far as the Integra goes couple items. My plug gap is tiny, too tiny for my liking. Sitting at 0.018 and I'd like to open that up a bit. I'm running stock ignition right now so after doing some research and looking under a few rocks I decided to go with the Accel direct replacement. This is only a temporary measure. I think I'm going to get the AEM EPM with the Rywire harness and go back to running the K coils. I just put the Accel coil in but have not had a chance to take it for a ride. Roads are wet.
Also the stock ECT sensor calibration in Infinity was off. I was guessing it was 12-15 degrees too high at operating temp and we verified that today using an AEM sensor in the location I had the aftermarket gauge setup in. So now we have the stock sender calibrated correctly.
Lastly I want to give a big thanks to Photobucket. Way to screw up my thread lol. I will work on uploading all the pics to get the images and data back into this thread.
Could it be the intake manifold and throttle body starting to choke off a little? I'm running a bored stock TB and the Skunk 2 pro series manifold.
Looking at all the graphs for this car and the TR3030R turbo the curve has always had that shape. Could it be that this is the nature of the turbo? I told Mac I wanted something with a fat power band, not peak hp since I daily drive it.
I forgot to add in the last post I need to get the AC recharged. Finally starting to blow a little warm air. As far as I know the AC has never been charged on this car lol. It still worked quite well too!
Coyote swap is easy and my plan is to get a junkyard truck motor, rebuild it and use better heads and such.
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I have a 2015 coyote crate engine with McCleod twin disc clutch and a T56 ready to drop in my 92' hatch. Switching over to manual brakes using a maximum motorsports kit right now.
I have a 2015 coyote crate engine with McCleod twin disc clutch and a T56 ready to drop in my 92' hatch. Switching over to manual brakes using a maximum motorsports kit right now.
That's more or less what I want to do. I figure I want to rebuild the motor because I have plans for boost once it's up and running so starting with a used motor is probably better anyway. I have T-tops so I think I'm going to need to put in a 4 point cage. I don't want to, but I have a feeling I'll have too.
That's more or less what I want to do. I figure I want to rebuild the motor because I have plans for boost once it's up and running so starting with a used motor is probably better anyway. I have T-tops so I think I'm going to need to put in a 4 point cage. I don't want to, but I have a feeling I'll have too.
The 15+ engines are good for a shitload of power. I had my crate engine delivered to my machinist, I had him install an MMR hurricane billet geared oil pump, MMR billet crank gear, MMR balancer, MMR head cooling mod, and I also had him prime the engine. After I brake in the clutch etc... I am throwing on a Paxton and shooting for 700RWHP.
If my wife new how much I had in this swap I would be dead!!!! There is a coyote swapped foxbody facebook group that is very helpful.
If you did want to try something else, I would recommend the Performer X. I had alot of people tell me it wasn't going to make much power or it was going to fall off up top, but damn it delivered. Longer runners then the Skunk2 and bigger plenum, tons of power everywhere and I have the STC interceptor which is a bit bigger then yours.
You're on E85 right? Or 93?
My car is 84x89, ITR cams, stock GSR head, ~10:1 comp, and miniram
So AC was not working after Infinity install. I checked to see if the compressor was kicking on and it wasn't. I looked in Infinity setup wizard and the switch was configured to digital 5, which is where it should be. I changed the switch input to aux 16 (which is my rolling anti-lag) and it worked. So then I started hunting wires. Had the correct voltage at the vehicle side ecu connectors. Next I checked the jumper harness (OBD2a-OBD2b) and found out that C5 on the OBD2a male harness went to A26 on the OBD2b male harness when it should go to A27. So I fixed that. Figured that was the problem. Nope, still didn't work.
Next I looked at the AEM Infinity PNP OBD2b harness. Noticed that instead of there being a pin on A27 on the female side of the Infinity PNP harness (where the AEM Instructions say there should be one) there was a pin at A26 WTF. So then I swapped back the OBD2a-OBD2b harness wire from A27 to A26. I pulled the PNP harness out and checked continuity to figure out where the A26 wire went. Turns out it went to C1-31 on the Infinity side when it should go to C1-30 (which is supposed to be digital 5 - the AC switch input) . Then I checked to see where C1-30 went. Turned out it went to the aux connector , aux 6,which is digital 6. I had to take apart the Infinity side of the plug, remove and swap pins for C1-30 and C1-31. Finally AC works.
Cliffs - If you use OBD2b AEM Infinity Honda PNP harness and ACswitch/digital 5 and/or digital 6 do not work the pins may need to be swapped. Not sure if I just have bad luck or if this is a common issue.
In other words C1-30 should go to A27 but A27 had to pin. A26 did have a pin and that wire went to C1-31 instead of C1-30. C1-30 went to aux 6 connector when it should be C1-31 that goes to aux 6.
Picked up the EPM and a Rywire EPM/K series coil harness. Install is pretty straight forward. Biggest issue was setting up the tach signal since OBD2a takes it from the dist. Just needed to run a wire from the jumper harness to the distributor plug. Car started right up and idles good. Once my tuner tweaks some of the ignition settings I'll see about opening up the plug gap a little.
Can't rule out AEM/GM smart coils if I can't open up the gap to where I would like it, but for now I'm going to see how it runs.
So after roughly 9 years and damn near 50k miles, much of that spent in the 450-500whp range on 93, I killed it. Well actually it was still running like champ it was just smoking more than the DB5 in Goldfinger when I tore it apart.
#3
#4
Better look at 4
Interestingly only #4 was burning oil. The port was wet, the other 3 were dry. I suspect this was a slow over time failure and the smoking only started once the ring failed.
So after roughly 9 years and damn near 50k miles, much of that spent in the 450-500whp range on 93, I killed it. Well actually it was still running like champ it was just smoking more than the DB5 in Goldfinger when I tore it apart.
Turbine wheel was not too happy about all this...
YIKES!
Part of that engine took out the turbine wheel, the way the inducer edge is gnarled up. You may have to go for a new CHRA as part of the Garrett exchange program, if a new turbine wheel can't be installed. GT series turbine wheels are not sold individually.
06-16-2017, 08:12 PM
re: 1158's TR3030R GSR, now with 512whp!
re: 1158's TR3030R GSR, now with 512whp!
