sheissrx

I recently aquired a garrett t3 (non-ball bearing). The guy I bought it from took it apart for some reason, and left it semi-disassembled. It has no shaft-play at all, but I've heard of some people blowing their seals because they had too much oil pressure to the turbo itself.

<U>Questions</U>
1)How can I check if the oil seals are still good?
2) Does anybody know the torque specs for the bolts for the turbine housing, and the torque specs for the compressor housing?


Without opening up the turbo, I saw some tiny brass shavings in the oil feed port ( I guess they are from his oil feed line. Wouldn't these **** my **** up if I don't clean them out? )

If you can help me out, please do. Thanks!


Modified by sheissrx at 1:29 AM 3/11/2005

sheissrx

bump

Bailhatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sheissrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">3) do the torque specs vary by turbo trim? (don't think they should, but I don't know for sure, but if they do, I have a .42/.48)

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont know the tq specs, but those numbers you gave are the A/R of the compressor cover and the turbine housing, not the trim of the wheels.

sheissrx

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bailhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I dont know the tq specs, but those numbers you gave are the A/R of the compressor cover and the turbine housing, not the trim of the wheels.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm new to FI.
*wearing nomex

Bailhatch

you can wear a bikini for all i care. I was just trying to pass on some info. I would call a turbo manufacture, well actually i would just do it by feel like i always do. never had a problem.

sheissrx

so what about the seals?

Bailhatch

that's easy, just carefully install everything, and start up the car. If the seals are really bad white smoke will pour out of your exhaust and your blow off valve will spray oil every where

Best way to get an idea is to take the housings off and see if the inside is oily. but even then they may have been leaking before becasue of too high oil pressure and if you set it up with less it may not leak at all (this happend to me a week ago).

Arturbo

the bolts use 9in/lbs from what I remember..I think.

sheissrx

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Arturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the bolts use 9in/lbs from what I remember..I think.</TD></TR></TABLE>
j00 sho bout dat?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bailhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that's easy, just carefully install everything, and start up the car. If the seals are really bad white smoke will pour out of your exhaust and your blow off valve will spray oil every where

Best way to get an idea is to take the housings off and see if the inside is oily. but even then they may have been leaking before becasue of too high oil pressure and if you set it up with less it may not leak at all (this happend to me a week ago). </TD></TR></TABLE>
The guy I bought it from cleaned it up before he shipped it, that's why it was disassembled I think.
There has to be a way to do a pre-installation inspection on the seals right?

Bailhatch

9 in/lbs must be for the compressor since its aluminum. I would think the turbine side would be a bit more tq than that, but i dont really know either.

sheissrx

I found out it is 25 ft/lbs for the turbine housing for those bolts, (which are 8.8 ; 8mm) for anyone who needed the info.