Torn on staying stock internals or going forged
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Torn on staying stock internals or going forged
So let me preface this by saying I've never had a stock internal turbo build, I've always done sleeves, ported heads, gone overboard I guess you could say. The goal is 375-400 on 93 octane at an elevation of 1100ft.
Im getting a motor from a buddy for a steal but it needs rings, so I was thinking about doing rods/pistons while it was out but it would be slightly stretching my budget.
What I'm working with is this. (and I'm probably leaving something out)
Stock GSR bottom end
Cometic 81mm MLS gasket
GE head studs
B16 head w/ mild port
Skunk2 Pro2 cams
Skunk2 springs and retainers
Skunk2 Valves
Skunk2 Intake manifold
65mm TB
Drivetrain:
Fidanza flywheel
CC stage 4 or 5 clutch (5 more than likely)
Turbo setup:
Custom built turbo by TheShodan
t3 .63 5 bolt hotside, gt35 turbine wheel
gt37 compressor wheel, t04s housing
Some sort of manifold, more than likely a mini-ram
Tial 35mm wastegate
3"downpipe into 3" straight pipe
2.5" intercooler piping
PWR 24x9x3 core intercooler
Turbonetics raptor BOV
Fuel:
1000cc injectors
ERL rail
Walbro 255
Aeromotive regulator
Chipped p28, either neptune or s300, not sure yet
I've seen people with smaller turbos make 403 or so on stock internals/sleeves at around 14-15psi.... So I guess my question is are my goals attainable on stock internals/sleeves or do I need pistons/rods..
TIA
Im getting a motor from a buddy for a steal but it needs rings, so I was thinking about doing rods/pistons while it was out but it would be slightly stretching my budget.
What I'm working with is this. (and I'm probably leaving something out)
Stock GSR bottom end
Cometic 81mm MLS gasket
GE head studs
B16 head w/ mild port
Skunk2 Pro2 cams
Skunk2 springs and retainers
Skunk2 Valves
Skunk2 Intake manifold
65mm TB
Drivetrain:
Fidanza flywheel
CC stage 4 or 5 clutch (5 more than likely)
Turbo setup:
Custom built turbo by TheShodan
t3 .63 5 bolt hotside, gt35 turbine wheel
gt37 compressor wheel, t04s housing
Some sort of manifold, more than likely a mini-ram
Tial 35mm wastegate
3"downpipe into 3" straight pipe
2.5" intercooler piping
PWR 24x9x3 core intercooler
Turbonetics raptor BOV
Fuel:
1000cc injectors
ERL rail
Walbro 255
Aeromotive regulator
Chipped p28, either neptune or s300, not sure yet
I've seen people with smaller turbos make 403 or so on stock internals/sleeves at around 14-15psi.... So I guess my question is are my goals attainable on stock internals/sleeves or do I need pistons/rods..
TIA
#2
Re: Torn on staying stock internals or going forged
If i remember right the breaking point of B series is around 340whp
I would personally go forged pistons/rods and some ARP hardware if you're going for power goals that high.
also a good tune for reliability, tuning is the #1 key to forced induction.
I would personally go forged pistons/rods and some ARP hardware if you're going for power goals that high.
also a good tune for reliability, tuning is the #1 key to forced induction.
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Re: Torn on staying stock internals or going forged
stock sleeves is fine for that level but id put in some eagle rods and some forged pistons. the stock internals will hold more power then that but not for very long.
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Re: Torn on staying stock internals or going forged
So let me preface this by saying I've never had a stock internal turbo build, I've always done sleeves, ported heads, gone overboard I guess you could say. The goal is 375-400 on 93 octane at an elevation of 1100ft.
Im getting a motor from a buddy for a steal but it needs rings, so I was thinking about doing rods/pistons while it was out but it would be slightly stretching my budget.
What I'm working with is this. (and I'm probably leaving something out)
Stock GSR bottom end
Cometic 81mm MLS gasket
GE head studs
B16 head w/ mild port
Skunk2 Pro2 cams
Skunk2 springs and retainers
Skunk2 Valves
Skunk2 Intake manifold
65mm TB
Turbo setup:
Custom built turbo by TheShodan
t3 .63 5 bolt hotside, gt35 turbine wheel
gt37 compressor wheel, t04s housing
TIA
Im getting a motor from a buddy for a steal but it needs rings, so I was thinking about doing rods/pistons while it was out but it would be slightly stretching my budget.
What I'm working with is this. (and I'm probably leaving something out)
Stock GSR bottom end
Cometic 81mm MLS gasket
GE head studs
B16 head w/ mild port
Skunk2 Pro2 cams
Skunk2 springs and retainers
Skunk2 Valves
Skunk2 Intake manifold
65mm TB
Turbo setup:
Custom built turbo by TheShodan
t3 .63 5 bolt hotside, gt35 turbine wheel
gt37 compressor wheel, t04s housing
TIA
#6
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Re: Torn on staying stock internals or going forged
Yea, I've actually never used it, lol. My motors keep letting go before I can even get a kit on.
Its only got like 5 minutes of idle time.
These are the best I have ATM, I gotta go find the damn thing lol.
Its only got like 5 minutes of idle time.
These are the best I have ATM, I gotta go find the damn thing lol.
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Re: Torn on staying stock internals or going forged
looks good, Id personally gow tih oem headgasket, but if yo've had luck with the cometic then go for it. I never had luck with them so i stay oem. Personal preference i guess. Thats alot of cam for the power level as well. You should be able to obtain that power on pretty low boost id imagine though with this setup
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Re: Torn on staying stock internals or going forged
yea, those are pics from my old 2.0 ls/vtec setup from like, 6 years ago lol.
I'm getting the motor posted above from a friend, full swap... transmission, wiring harness, ecu and all for 600 bucks :D simply because it needs rings.
I've got a few other things to do to the car since the motor is out (shave and tuck, boosterless setup,etc. been meaning to do it for a while) So we'll see what I decided to do. Might stay stock internals and just see what I can make on low-ish boost
I'm getting the motor posted above from a friend, full swap... transmission, wiring harness, ecu and all for 600 bucks :D simply because it needs rings.
I've got a few other things to do to the car since the motor is out (shave and tuck, boosterless setup,etc. been meaning to do it for a while) So we'll see what I decided to do. Might stay stock internals and just see what I can make on low-ish boost
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Re: Torn on staying stock internals or going forged
apologies, with the way most of this forum has turned in the past few years, i kinda just come up with default responses....
to help cut costs you might be able to find a set of used eagle rods for around 200 bucks instead of 300ish for new. as much as it can suck to spend money when you dont want to, while everything is apart this is the best time to go forged. the peace of mind to have that extra strength in your motor in case you want to turn it up later, or even get a bad tank of gas is worth it imo. i personally would do a piston and rod setup
to help cut costs you might be able to find a set of used eagle rods for around 200 bucks instead of 300ish for new. as much as it can suck to spend money when you dont want to, while everything is apart this is the best time to go forged. the peace of mind to have that extra strength in your motor in case you want to turn it up later, or even get a bad tank of gas is worth it imo. i personally would do a piston and rod setup
#12
Re: Torn on staying stock internals or going forged
apologies, with the way most of this forum has turned in the past few years, i kinda just come up with default responses....
to help cut costs you might be able to find a set of used eagle rods for around 200 bucks instead of 300ish for new. as much as it can suck to spend money when you dont want to, while everything is apart this is the best time to go forged. the peace of mind to have that extra strength in your motor in case you want to turn it up later, or even get a bad tank of gas is worth it imo. i personally would do a piston and rod setup
to help cut costs you might be able to find a set of used eagle rods for around 200 bucks instead of 300ish for new. as much as it can suck to spend money when you dont want to, while everything is apart this is the best time to go forged. the peace of mind to have that extra strength in your motor in case you want to turn it up later, or even get a bad tank of gas is worth it imo. i personally would do a piston and rod setup
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Re: Torn on staying stock internals or going forged
yea I totally understand the default reply... I do it a lot nowadays.
I might not do internals, as since this is strictly a daily/street car I want an awesome powerband, so I might just go with an evo 9 big 16g and run it true twin scroll.... awesome response and 300-325 is easy on stock internals and gives me a pretty good saftey margin
I might not do internals, as since this is strictly a daily/street car I want an awesome powerband, so I might just go with an evo 9 big 16g and run it true twin scroll.... awesome response and 300-325 is easy on stock internals and gives me a pretty good saftey margin
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Re: Torn on staying stock internals or going forged
only 2 e85 stations in georgia at the moment.
one is 40 miles away one way, the other near 200
one is 40 miles away one way, the other near 200
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