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tilton twin pedal pressure and engagement

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Old 04-11-2008, 09:58 PM
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Default tilton twin pedal pressure and engagement

just finished installing a tilton twin, and I dont think its disengaging. Im using a stock TO bearing which has been trimmed to work with the clutch. I made sure the clutch wasnt hitting inside the trans case. stock ITR trans. If I put the car in 1st gear, and try to roll the car forward or backward, it wont roll. If I push on the clutch, it still wont roll. If I take it out of gear, it rolls fine. So I not think the clutch is disengaging.

how much pedal travel should I have? I dont seem to be getting much resistance until almost 3/4 of the way down when pushing on the pedal. Im pretty sure its bled correctly, Ive bled clutches many times before. no air is coming out, only fluid but the pedal pressure doesnt seem to be there. do they normally engage/disengage high or low?
Old 04-12-2008, 03:34 AM
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man...up til 2am trying to figure this out. Im positive everything is installed correctly. I did find a leak at the reservior hose clamp, but it was very minor and was fixed. rebled, and doesnt really seem to be getting any more pedal pressure or range of motion on the shift fork. its almost as if when pushing the pedal in, and the TO bearing isnt even reaching the clutch plate or just barely touching it. Im gonna bleed it one more time and see what happens and maybe pick up another master cyl.
Old 04-12-2008, 11:56 AM
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Have someone look at your clutch fork to really see if its moving sufficently....then go from there.

MIght possibly just be a bad slave cyl or needs more bleeing?? anyhow G/L
Old 04-12-2008, 12:26 PM
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already done that. its moving but doesnt seem to have complete range of motion. so before I buy a new MC im gonna try to adjust the MC rod to get more range of motion at the shift fork. thx
Old 04-12-2008, 03:57 PM
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Default Re: (RTW DC2R)

i had problem with tilton clutches also. I think i had the same problem, it didnt disengage.
Old 04-12-2008, 04:08 PM
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ok so I definitely have enough travel at the shift fork. I maxed out the travel on the MC rod and the shift fork is definitely moving enough. Im getting plenty of pedal pressure after only about 1/4 of the way down when pressing the pedal.

I took off the dust cover at the slave and took a look inside. I can clearly see the TO bearing is reaching the clutch plate fingers. and I can see that with some travel of the shift fork, its definitely trying to press hard enough on the clutch plate to release the disks so the flywheel can spin. the one part Im concerned about is the shaft part of the clutch housing that the TO bearing slides up and down on. It looks like that is possibly touching the clutch plate. But if that was pressing on the plate, I would assume if anything that would prevent the clutch from engaging rather than disengaging since it would be pushing on the center of the plate fingers.

I put a wrench on the crank pulley and it definitely rotates freely. I dont see any bolts hitting anything. all plates and disks are installed in the correct direction (its pretty straight forward install). at this point Im hoping I didnt overstroke the clutch or mess up the clutch plate while trying to narrow down the problem. what could possibly be causing it not do disengage?
Old 04-12-2008, 05:18 PM
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[freak]ING FIXED whooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1111

for anyone that cares, the person I bought the shell from who installed the pedal assembly didnt install the top bolt to hold the pedal bracket, so the whole assembly was flexing preventing full stroke. works like a charm now. i knew i didnt install that bitch wrong. this was the last piece of the puzzle so [freak]ing stoked w000000000000000000tttttttttttt!!!!
Old 04-12-2008, 06:27 PM
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Default Re: (RTW DC2R)

Glad yours worked. My Tilton (H22) Hatch, 465 whp - 338 tq, is street use only. Almost like a light switch. (on or off) Reverse chatters and is really hard to use. It's touchier than other B series Tilton installations that I've seen. Think I'm going to sell it and use a 6 puck for more streetable driving. It holds well and lasts a long time without much wear. Best 1st gear starts seem to be to let out the clutch until it starts to engage, then push it in slightly and hold it there while the clutch kind of engages itself.
Glad yours worked out well -killer drag clutch!
Old 04-12-2008, 08:18 PM
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Default Re: (purpleh22)

you might wanna look into the flow control valve if you havent already. but at that power level a single disk act 6 puck with extreme plate would be fine. that is the clutch i used to use and its surprisingly "on/off" too. its rated at 408 ft/lbs and bites pretty hard on engagement.
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