Thoughts on 3" downpipe clearance, Innovative clutch Kit
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Thoughts on 3" downpipe clearance, Innovative clutch Kit
After some cutting and reshaping, I thought I had my cable to hydro clutch kit done. Now the bottom portion the cable threads into hits my downpipe probably about an inch and a half.
The photo below has the downpipe dropped out of position since the clutch kit is bolted in, so the clearance appears to be much worse because of the angle the DP dropped.
If I get a 3" 90* butt pipe from kteller, do you think that will fix the clearance or should I try and funnel it out (i.e. a 1.5" reducer welded to the flange
The photo below has the downpipe dropped out of position since the clutch kit is bolted in, so the clearance appears to be much worse because of the angle the DP dropped.
If I get a 3" 90* butt pipe from kteller, do you think that will fix the clearance or should I try and funnel it out (i.e. a 1.5" reducer welded to the flange
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Re: Thoughts on 3" downpipe clearance, Innovative clutch Kit
Could use this conversion kit instead : http://hasport.com/store/index.php/accessories/clutch/efbhcl.html
Mounts on the other side if I'm not mistaken. That looks tight no matter what way you route the downpipe with that kit.
Mounts on the other side if I'm not mistaken. That looks tight no matter what way you route the downpipe with that kit.
#3
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Youre gonna need pie cuts with a small center line radius.
Probably a 3" clr radius for 3" pipe will clear that.
Buy a foot of 3" pipe and use this formula
To make precise pie cuts bends I have provided a nice simple formula.
This formula makes a bend that is whatever angle you desire.
CLR = Center Line Radius (radius of the bend measured through the center of the tubing)
D = Diameter of Tube _____
L = Length of long side of pie cut - the top of this pie cut -> \____/
Angle = angle to cut pie section which, this angle is measured perpendicular to the length of the tubing
Bend Angle = The angle of the bend
N = number of pie sections to complete bend
* means multiply
L = [ ( 2 * CLR ) + D ] * [ sin ( Angle ) ]
Angle = Bend Angle / ( 2 * N )
Example:
You want to make a bend that is 120 degrees, uses 3" diameter tubing with a CLR of 4", and 5 pie sections.
Angle = Bend Angle / ( 2 * N )
Angle = 120 / ( 2 * 5 )
Angle = 12
L = [ ( 2 * CLR ) + D ] * [ sin ( Angle ) ]
L = [ ( 2 * 4" ) + 3" ] * [ sin ( 12 ) ]
L = [ 8" + 3" ] * [ sin ( 12 ) ]
L = [ 11" ] * [ sin ( 12 ) ]
L = [ 11" ] * [ sin ( 12 ) ]
L = [ 11" ] * [ 0.208 ]
L = 2.288"
[size=16pt]L = 2.288"
Angle = 12 degrees
_____
Now you need to cut 5 of these -> \____/ with the top part measuring 2.288" in length.
Probably a 3" clr radius for 3" pipe will clear that.
Buy a foot of 3" pipe and use this formula
To make precise pie cuts bends I have provided a nice simple formula.
This formula makes a bend that is whatever angle you desire.
CLR = Center Line Radius (radius of the bend measured through the center of the tubing)
D = Diameter of Tube _____
L = Length of long side of pie cut - the top of this pie cut -> \____/
Angle = angle to cut pie section which, this angle is measured perpendicular to the length of the tubing
Bend Angle = The angle of the bend
N = number of pie sections to complete bend
* means multiply
L = [ ( 2 * CLR ) + D ] * [ sin ( Angle ) ]
Angle = Bend Angle / ( 2 * N )
Example:
You want to make a bend that is 120 degrees, uses 3" diameter tubing with a CLR of 4", and 5 pie sections.
Angle = Bend Angle / ( 2 * N )
Angle = 120 / ( 2 * 5 )
Angle = 12
L = [ ( 2 * CLR ) + D ] * [ sin ( Angle ) ]
L = [ ( 2 * 4" ) + 3" ] * [ sin ( 12 ) ]
L = [ 8" + 3" ] * [ sin ( 12 ) ]
L = [ 11" ] * [ sin ( 12 ) ]
L = [ 11" ] * [ sin ( 12 ) ]
L = [ 11" ] * [ 0.208 ]
L = 2.288"
[size=16pt]L = 2.288"
Angle = 12 degrees
_____
Now you need to cut 5 of these -> \____/ with the top part measuring 2.288" in length.
#4
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Re: Thoughts on 3" downpipe clearance, Innovative clutch Kit
what kind of clutch are you running?
the lever assemblies tend to bind up when running more than a stock clutch or stock style clutch
i would look into the Hasport CMA as it uses a 92-95 civic clutch master that is actuated by the clutch cable and a custom line is run to the slave on the trans
here are a couple examples of the CMA. it can actually be mounted anywhere the clutch cable reaches
the lever assemblies tend to bind up when running more than a stock clutch or stock style clutch
i would look into the Hasport CMA as it uses a 92-95 civic clutch master that is actuated by the clutch cable and a custom line is run to the slave on the trans
here are a couple examples of the CMA. it can actually be mounted anywhere the clutch cable reaches
#5
-Intl Steve Krew
Re: Thoughts on 3" downpipe clearance, Innovative clutch Kit
Hush Performance conversion kit would allow you to run a hydro setup.
It's a pretty penny though.
It's a pretty penny though.
#6
Re: Thoughts on 3" downpipe clearance, Innovative clutch Kit
Honestly, I'd get rid of that cable to hydro conversion kit. In fact, don't use ANY conversion kit that still uses a cable unless you only plan on using an OEM pressure plate.
I bought and tried several on my wagon and had similar results with all of them: extremely hard pedal pressure with most aftermarket performance pressure plates, still breaks the pedal bracket at the clutch pivot point, and inconsistent actuation and release of the clutch due to cable stretch and deflection of metal brackets.
After having poor results with several of these including two different ones from Innovative and one from Hasport, I tried the kit from Suja1 (Sonem) and had much better results!! Since then I stepped up to the Hush Performance kit which is basically the same concept as the Suja1 but with a better design, strength, and functionality. I know this may not be the advice you want to hear since you already have time and money invested in your current setup but I promise you that you'll be much better off in the long run if you upgrade now. Best of luck to you on your build.
I bought and tried several on my wagon and had similar results with all of them: extremely hard pedal pressure with most aftermarket performance pressure plates, still breaks the pedal bracket at the clutch pivot point, and inconsistent actuation and release of the clutch due to cable stretch and deflection of metal brackets.
After having poor results with several of these including two different ones from Innovative and one from Hasport, I tried the kit from Suja1 (Sonem) and had much better results!! Since then I stepped up to the Hush Performance kit which is basically the same concept as the Suja1 but with a better design, strength, and functionality. I know this may not be the advice you want to hear since you already have time and money invested in your current setup but I promise you that you'll be much better off in the long run if you upgrade now. Best of luck to you on your build.
#7
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Re: Thoughts on 3" downpipe clearance, Innovative clutch Kit
Honestly, I'd get rid of that cable to hydro conversion kit. In fact, don't use ANY conversion kit that still uses a cable unless you only plan on using an OEM pressure plate.
I bought and tried several on my wagon and had similar results with all of them: extremely hard pedal pressure with most aftermarket performance pressure plates, still breaks the pedal bracket at the clutch pivot point, and inconsistent actuation and release of the clutch due to cable stretch and deflection of metal brackets.
After having poor results with several of these including two different ones from Innovative and one from Hasport, I tried the kit from Suja1 (Sonem) and had much better results!! Since then I stepped up to the Hush Performance kit which is basically the same concept as the Suja1 but with a better design, strength, and functionality. I know this may not be the advice you want to hear since you already have time and money invested in your current setup but I promise you that you'll be much better off in the long run if you upgrade now. Best of luck to you on your build.
I bought and tried several on my wagon and had similar results with all of them: extremely hard pedal pressure with most aftermarket performance pressure plates, still breaks the pedal bracket at the clutch pivot point, and inconsistent actuation and release of the clutch due to cable stretch and deflection of metal brackets.
After having poor results with several of these including two different ones from Innovative and one from Hasport, I tried the kit from Suja1 (Sonem) and had much better results!! Since then I stepped up to the Hush Performance kit which is basically the same concept as the Suja1 but with a better design, strength, and functionality. I know this may not be the advice you want to hear since you already have time and money invested in your current setup but I promise you that you'll be much better off in the long run if you upgrade now. Best of luck to you on your build.
Sorry for the late response. Actually originally posted this when I was flying back to LA and then got caught up with work. To touch on all the points as follows:
Hasport styled kits that mount on the other side of the trans or innovative kits seem to yield the same results. I bought a new innovative kit, the one I have now, only to get a second kit free when I got my mounts. So long story short all of these kits seem to have the same problem: Cable stretchage, pedals breaking, and basically not a long term solution. I tried to buy the suja1 kit last year but they went out of business and no longer sell it. With this life long build now, I just want to to buy it. So in short, the next thing I'm going to rebuy for this clutch will be the last thing I buy for this clutch. A new pedal assembly to go completely hydro. I'll look into the hush but for now I need to allocate my time to just getting the thing able to drive down the street (its been a four year project and counting). So now I walk the fine line of what to address first. Do you have any experience with the hush set up? Do you have to pull the dash?
Do you just rebuy OEM hard lines or just piece it together?
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